my experience with plug/wire change

[mino]

after removing all 3 silencers and dropping in a K&N in airbox , putting in a vac/boost gauge and switching to full synthetic oil - i changed out plugs and wires today - car had 20,000 mile ( i just bought it used - along with the chrysler bumper to bumper warranty for another 80,000 miles and 5 years )- i waited till engine was totally cold then pulled all wires off ( they were stock and very hard to pull off - i had to grip them with pliers ) the plugs were easy to loosen and gapped at .055 , only the far right plug had oil on threads . they were champion 470 plugs . i didnt have the smaller torque wrench , so i just hand tighten them and just nudged them tight with the socket wrench with a human feel @ 13 lbs ( there is very little play to tighten ) i put new champ 470s back in and gapped @ .041 and put some new autolite wires on . THE CAR RAN MUCH BETTER - the idle was smoother and the top end power was better and smoother .

[quicksilverdon]

No experience with Autolite wires, but they pretty well have to be better than the stock wires, which I swear are made of linguini. On both my PTs, the stock wires started to go at around 20,000 miles - I replaced with Crane wires, and was all set.

[fritz_t_coyote]

Wires were hard to pull off because the factory didn't use dielectric grease; Hopefully you DID use some with the new wires.

Modern engines (and plugs) go so long between changes that the boots will become one with the plug unless you use some dielectric grease inside the plug boot.

Likewise anti-seize on the plug threads.
Between the long change intervals, and the relatively soft aluminum cylinder head, Bad Things may happen at plug change time if you dont.