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Its funny, I sat in stop and go last weekend, for about an hour, and it never shut down or even hiccuped. Hopefully it was a one time deal for me.[:I]
Tom |
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I had a Mitsu turbo for 9 years and I always let it idle before shut down. If it has been driven hard on the hwy and I needed to gas up. I'll idle it for under 1 min gas up and restart again before paying.
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Quote:
When there is no motion, the under-hood temps go way up. This can cause the contacts in the connectors from the harness to the sensor(s) to expand and contract with temp changes and introduce an intermittent loss of data. The Camshaft position sensor and Crank Position Sensor(s) seem to be the most suspect. I believe the Cam Sensor is a multiple trip monitored sensor, meaning that it has to show an error to the PCM more than one time in a diagnostic cycle before the error has "matured", is stored and a code is displayed.. The problem with this kind of PCM error and shutdown is that it is hard to recreate in the shop. If your dealer's service manager is serious on isolating the problem and correcting it, have himm place a blanket over the hood and idle it with the A/C on for 15 minutes after it had reached operating temperature. If it is a contact integrity issue, this will most likely cause it to appear. On a 93 Grand Cherokee that I had, the final resolution was to take the wire(s) that keep loosing contact out of the connector and make a "hard splice" for that circuit; independent of the connector. It took over 5 years, and almost as many dealerships giving up on it before I found an independent mechanic resourceful enough to isolate the problem and make a permanent fix. In the course of that 5 years, I had replaced everything electrical that had to do with the ignition system, had head gasket replaced, head resurfaced, Crank Position Sensor replaced, etc... It all boiled down to connectors loosing contact at high temps. The 93 Grand Cherokee was a first year model; the under-hood cooling of the GT may also be a first year design problem that will be addressed when the problem is brought to light, and Chrysler comes out of denial. The quicker you get the porblem documented at the dealership level, the quicker you will get a permanent fix... |
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What gets me though, is it also happens VERY frequently right after I start the thing up in the morning, and am letting it warm up. It will run for a minute or two, with the idle hunting before trying to settle in and then it will just rise up to ~1200 rpm then stall flat on it's face.
As it is, the car is at the dealer right now, for that, the thunk coming from the rear suspension, and also the problem I am *still* having with my throw out bearing. This will be the second T.O. bearing in 10,000 miles - unfortunatly i was one of the first with the problem in regards to the bad throw out bearings, had mine fixed right away, and sure enough not even 3,000 miles later the problem crept back up on me, with the same symptoms/problems/noise at idle and when shifting and driving along for that matter. *shrug*
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2003 GT cruiser 209HP 248lb/ft SAE corrected |
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Mine did that a while back. I was in a 4th of july parade, windows down, driving at idle speed for a few miles. At the end of the parade, I was parked, and turned on the ac. and it really started to bog the engine, and eventually the computer, started messing with the throttle, but it ended up dieing. No codes, just like too much load on the engine. Sometimes it seems to lightly bog when i put on the a/c but it hasn't killed it again.
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88 Daytona Shelby Z T-II Blue 88 Daytona Shelby Z T-II Silver T-Tops 89 Caravan ES Turbo-I 03 PT GT Turbo 41TE Autostick Electric Blue |
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Mine died this morning on the way in to work, just stopped at a traffic light. Before this, it was just hiccuping a little bit, but this was the first time it totally shut down. SUCKS!!!!
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2003 Electric Blue GT ![]() The Philadelphia Flyer |
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