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replacing oil filter only

 
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 31 Jul 2003, 02:19 pm
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If you warm up the engine before you open the drain and have the fill cap off you will get a good flush and most particles that were in the engine should be suspended in the oil instead of settled at the bottom.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 31 Jul 2003, 02:43 pm
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I guess I need to explain now why the three hours...

I was doing other crap arround the house so after I opened the plug went into the house... three hours later came back and remembered that I had to finish it....

No special trick or anything... The engine was warm when I started. I guess it paid off because the car was dry as a bone and one week later the oil is cristal clear...

Ian
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 31 Jul 2003, 09:23 pm
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I took the filter out this morning, and as Ian-PT-GT suggested, oil in the pan does not come out.

One thing notable worth mentioning: The original oil filter( black in color and has "Factory Installed" written on it) # 04781452AA, had another # 69647A is real heavy duty construction oil filter. One I got from the dealer ( white in color, with diff. part #) is very cheap looking and poorely constructed filter. Looked almost like the Fram filter.

Oil was still clear when I check the level, so guess what I did with the filter.

I will be checking the dealer to see if I can get the same one as the original black oil filter even if it cost me little more. I am assuming I can since it has Mopar part #. If not, I will be looking into Mobil 1 or K&N oil filter.

Ian-PT-GT, I do the same with my other cars. Sometimes I will drain the oil overnight in the garage to get every bit of drop of dirty oil out. Of course with fill cap open and placed over the hole to stop dirt or any dust from going inside. This way, oil stays clear till drain time @ 5k km.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2003, 10:46 am
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I changed the oil at the 3250 Mile mark. The oil came horribly black! It was definetly time for the oil change. I removed the Dino oil and replaced with the good synth stuff.

Ian
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2003, 06:57 pm
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I am always afraid of the extended oil change, the oil itself may continue to have lubricating capacity, but the byproducts of combustion create some pretty caustic substances. The "protection package" of additives in the oil are supposed to buffer these elements, but it is my feeling that these are the elements that will destroy your seals and more fragile internal parts.

Better safe than sorry...put in some new clean stuff each time(every 3000 mi).[|)]
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2003, 08:44 pm
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I picked up same oil filter as the original filter at the dealer today. It was only few bucks more than the white color oil filter. The white one is total garbage. I would not use this one. Even the parts guy ( diff. dealer) told me that the white one has problems leaking. So why did the dealer where I picked up my car gave me this **** replacement filter. I am going to exchange it.

For Canadians and even in States, check your oil filter after getting oil and filter changed at a dealer.... if it is black in color, you are ok but if you have white filter... ask them to use # 04781452AA oil filter in the future.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2003, 09:25 pm
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And yes, as some of you have mentioned... oil is cheap but I choose to leave the original oil in till 2.5k to 3k km just in case the original oil has additives to aid in break-in. plus, factory filled oil looks brand new after 1.2k km anyways.

So, this is my shedule: filter change only at 1.2k km, oil and filter change at 2.5k to 3k km, oil and filter change at the dealer at 6k km and at 10k km switch over to Mobil 1.

I have found that with synth. oil, you can extend the oil and filter chage to 10k km no problem on reg. engine car. For my GT, once I switch over to synth. Mobil 1, I will go 5k to 7k km. between changes.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04 Aug 2003, 06:57 pm
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Can anyone advise me if the location of the oil filter in a GT require special tools to replace? Relatedly, can any standard oil changing business (ie, SpeedyOil, etc) change the oil filter?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04 Aug 2003, 07:47 pm
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You need only a filter wrench to remove the filter. A 13MM wrench or socket will be needed to remove the oil drain plug from the pan. See how easy?? You don't need no stinkin' oil change place, but they can handle it if you prefer.
Joe
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04 Aug 2003, 08:11 pm
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Just to remember to tighten the filter a little stronger than hand tight.
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