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Well I am slowly becoming a very unhappy PT Turbo owner and am contemplating selling mine. Within the past 8 months I've had the following issues, a defective slave cylinder and a seal leak in the manual transmission. Both covered under either Chrysler's Powerplant or my Max Care Chrysler Warranty and each costing $100 via the deductible. There have also been a number of other issues/failures prior to this that I won't mention.
My wife is driving home from work the other night and notes the temp gauge is pegged. After a tow (and there have been many towings of this vehicle) we learn that the water transfer tube for the turbo failed. This one, not covered by any warranty will be $350. I will be placing a call to Chrysler and attempt to get some satisfaction though I am not holding my breath. This PT GT is 5 years old, less than 50,000 miles and has been pampered. Oil changes every 3,000 miles and I've followed the service book with servicing done at certified Chrysler dealerships so as to not void any warranties. To say I am discouraged with Chrysler products at this point is an understatement. Was curious if anyone in the group has experience such an issue. W2 |
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I have not heard of any problems with the water transfer tube for the turbo, either with the PT turbo or the SRT-4 (same turbo'd engine).
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\'05 Stone White SRT4 \'04 Graphite PT Automatic |
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its normal wear and tear.
no car will last forever. and thats not a whole lot of $$ for service.
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Nevin. 03 SRT-4 — 132k mi ported stocker and lots of other stuff 68 Mustang Coupe — project fail!! PT Less - ex wife took in the divorce 3/2011 05 GT Cruiser H.O. — last dyno 245hp/283tq @ 15psi — OCT 08 3 in intake, Stage 1 PCM, Stage 2 WGA, ported turbo@21psi, 682cc, 160 deg T-stat, Check valve, Ngk 4306 plugs, 10mm spark plug wires, 3in O2, 3in DP, 3in Y-pipe with E-cutout, 2.5 in catback exhaust, upper/lower hardpipes, HKS SSQ bov, block off plate, Energy Suspention MM inserts, NSRT hawk HPS front/rear pads, NSRT Drilled/slotted rotors, NSRT steel braded front lines, Mopar 26mm Swaybar, NSRT energy suspention swaybar bushing, NSRT energy suspention swaybar endlinks, APC Non-turbo strut bar, Black housing headlights, Tinted rear tail lights, Schroth 4 point harness, Perrin catchcan, 3 pod a-piller, boost guage 30/30, oil pressure gauge, volt gauge |
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I use dino oil and yes the coolant level was good along with proper marks via hydrometer. I lived in Alaska for a number of years (not with this current vehicle) and know the importance of proper coolant/antifreeze. I've spent a heck of a lot more than $550 on repairs with this vehicle over the past five years ($100 deductible with each visit). Let's just say we've gotten our moneys worth out of the extended warranty. And I haven't included all the scheduled maintenance costs which are expected. I am a firm believer in regular maintenance as monies spent now will help a vehicle last longer and hopefully hold off any major mechanical failures as the years pass by. Unfortunatley this PT seems to have required more towing or unscheduled visits to the dealership compared with other vehicles I own and have owned. I still wonder if anyone else has had this piece fail on their PT GT. Again, happy my extended warranty covered it. W2 |
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\'05 Stone White SRT4 \'04 Graphite PT Automatic |
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Synthetic Oils do better in cold weather.
The first synthetic oils were developed in the 1930s and '40s, and used in industrial applications and during wartime. In World War II, the Germans began using synthetic oil, noticing that refined crude had a tendency to freeze as they attempted to advance into Russia. Years later when jet aircraft emerged, it became clear that only synthetic oil could survive the high temperatures found within jet engines. Synthetic oils designed for cars began to appear in the 1970s. Organica News -- News and Features: When is Synthetic Better?
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Nevin. 03 SRT-4 — 132k mi ported stocker and lots of other stuff 68 Mustang Coupe — project fail!! PT Less - ex wife took in the divorce 3/2011 05 GT Cruiser H.O. — last dyno 245hp/283tq @ 15psi — OCT 08 3 in intake, Stage 1 PCM, Stage 2 WGA, ported turbo@21psi, 682cc, 160 deg T-stat, Check valve, Ngk 4306 plugs, 10mm spark plug wires, 3in O2, 3in DP, 3in Y-pipe with E-cutout, 2.5 in catback exhaust, upper/lower hardpipes, HKS SSQ bov, block off plate, Energy Suspention MM inserts, NSRT hawk HPS front/rear pads, NSRT Drilled/slotted rotors, NSRT steel braded front lines, Mopar 26mm Swaybar, NSRT energy suspention swaybar bushing, NSRT energy suspention swaybar endlinks, APC Non-turbo strut bar, Black housing headlights, Tinted rear tail lights, Schroth 4 point harness, Perrin catchcan, 3 pod a-piller, boost guage 30/30, oil pressure gauge, volt gauge |
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Yeah, I know I should be using synthetic. My Porsche and 3 motorcycles run synthetic (Mobil 1 and Amsoil motorcycle synthetic) but for some reason I've been using dino for my Toyota and PT. My bad.
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They replaced the coolant tube to my '03 turbo some time ago under warranty. There was an upgraded part for it. It is a bear of a job. They had to drop the engine cradle to get to it.
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