OIL FILTER

[LT Almond GT]

Mr Blond

That Should bee HP-2009 instead of HP-2900. Finders and head not working this AM.

[Mr.Blonde]

Thanks for all of the help, I just changed my oil for the first time today and everything went smoooth. I went with Mobil 1 5w30 and all i could find was a fram filter. When should I change my oil next? A couple of things I had heard was to change oil and filter every 8K, and another thing was to after 10K, change filter, then after another 10 K, change the filter and the oil.

[SteelBlueGT]

I always follow the most severe maintenance schedule the factory offers in their owners manual. That means Schedule B and every 3,000 miles!

[LAF]

I would never go 8k on any oil. Always a 2500 mile kinda guy. After my 2000 miles are up will run Castrol synth. to the 3 range though. Owning a harley, there was a huge debate over synth. and dino. After I broke in my rebuild , 1000 mile, dumped Casrol synth in and watched my oil temp drop 15 degrees. Also big debate on filters, had a link and will try to post it, a guy cut like all major filters apart to see construction and such. Fram took a big hit, and Wix was near the top. I will go with a Wix on my GT. Ohh, btw I use a ford FL1-A on my sportster, same specs on check valve and presure, just a half more quart of oil for the summer. and a whole lot cheaper than a HD replacement of normal size. The new Fram Tough Gaurd for synth oils with a new type of filter element is supposed to great and was not in the above guys post as it is really new. I will be dumping my first 1000 mile oil and filter this weekend, then dino and a Wix, dump at 2000, then Castrol Synth and maybe a K&N or Wix.

[Kirby]

I read a recent engineering article on the latest performance filters(you might do a search for it). Point is Fram (all of them), purolator, wix, and number of O.E filters.... all trash and prone to break.

Good ones... Mobil One filter, K & N.

Buy a cheap filter...take your chances.

[Turbo Tommy]

I would go ahead and use the 10W30 mobil one, it won't freeze until -50 f or so, and in the heat 10W30 won't thin out as much as 5W30 will. Just my 2 cents

[Kirby]

Check out the Oil Filter Study article:

www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

[2sb]

Reconsider 5w30. Today's engines are built to tighter specs and need thinner oil at first. City ran 5w30 in squad cars with no problems and those cars are NOT treated gently.

I'll run 5w30 to 50k then switch to 10w30. I changed the oil at 3k, 6k, and 10k. Based on senility, I change the oil at 5k intervals so I don't have to remember when it was what. It hits a 5k multiple, I just change it.[:I]

[LAF]

This is the best I have seen on oil filters, and to us air cooled guys it is live or die with filters.

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html

[Turbo Tommy]

As for oil weights, the owners book says 5W30 or 10W30 are aceptable, with 5w30 preffered. However, the guide it shows for temps, and usage shows 10w30 for anything over 100degrees f outside, so for anyone that lives in a warm climate I would suggest that for sure.

As for tight clearnces, synthetics will thin out more than conventional anyway, so I'd rather use a heavier grade. Especially if I am gonna be drivng hard at all.