Changing spark plugs 2005 GT aluminum manifold

[Hooligan]

Removing spark wire boots. It is a special tool, probably can get from Snap On Tools.

[Mean Green]

Originally Posted by quicksilverdon

I'll still put on a dab...

With the plugs being coated you don't even need a dab. In fact, plug manufacturers recommend against it. Do what you gotta do, but I've never had a problem removing plugs when they are torqued properly.

[dsmturbo]

So, I decided to replace plugs/wires, I started at far left, on the turbo it appears I can change all without pulling intake. Well, it took me 2 hours to replace that plug and wire!!! reason, I could not get the wire off, until I grabbed a really long pair of needle nose pliers and used a piece of 2X4 as a safety so as not to damage anything on engine, and twisted and pulled for 45 minutes. It finally let loose.

I am sure these are original plugs/wires with 82 Kilo on them.

I had enough and went for a relaxation journey for rest of day.

[Cal Cruzer]

instead of antisieze I would recommenc dielectric grease.

"Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Because it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector.

The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected."

[quicksilverdon]

Originally Posted by Cal Cruzer

instead of antisieze I would recommenc dielectric grease.

Both - 2 different purposes.
The anti-seize goes on the thread of the spark plug to keep it from getting bonded to the head.
The dielectric grease goes on the rubber boots of the ignition wires.

[dsmturbo]

Well, after my ordeal with #1 plug, I tackled the rest today. below is my story and I am sticking to it.

Anyways, I thought I would start with the #4 plug, as it and one I did looked easiest.. The boot was again hard to get off, but ti cam after 15 minutes or so. So I put spark plug socket on extension and started loosing. I thought it was anyway, but after about 5 minutes, I pulled the rachet/extension off and the spark plug socket stayed on plug. I couldn't get it off, so I grabbed longer needle nose and finally managed to get socket off. Then I looked in to plug hole, and it appeared there was a rubber boot thingy or part of on the plug. I looked in socket and the rubber was still in there. So that rubber must have been on plug forever. I tried for an hour or so with needle nose triying to remove it as it blocked the socket from getting on the plug. Finally, I went upstairs and got a wire hangar and rigged up a hook thing. Well, it took me about 2 hours total, but I finally hooked it enough, pulled and it loosened off spark plug but didn't come out. So I used a combination of the hook and pliers and I finally, carefully got it out of plug hole. My back was killing me.

I installed new plug and wire easily after that.

Then I thought, it has taken me over 4 hours to do 2 plugs. Rose came down to see how it was going, and then said just take it in to get other ones done as I said the hardest to reach ones are left.

Anyway, I thought I would try the hardest one #2, so I got 3" extension and universal. I grabbed the boot and twisted and pulled and it came off in about 5 minutes. So I placed socket down hole, and then used 10" extension on the universal and rachet on end. Well, I got the plug out in about a minute. I gapped new plug and reinstalled it easily.

One more left #3, wire came off same as #2, just used same setup as #2 and had it out and replaced in about 10 minutes.

All done.

I can't believe someone would leave a rubber thingy off a plug socket on the plug and then place the wire boot on it. I bet it must have been there for thousands of K. I thought the plugs were original but I guess not as I can't see that from factory.

What a complete pain that was, I don't want to do them again.

#2 plug has some oil on it, rest are all just old and huge gaps.

Do these have an issue with head gaskets, just wondering why #2 plug would have some oil on the threads? As there is no EGR valve, could it be from PCV vavle on intake or rings or valve guides?

[quicksilverdon]

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[quicksilverdon]

DSMTurbo-
When I do the plugs, I use 2 sockets - one with rubber inside, 1 without.
To remove, one with rubber is fine. When putting in new plugs, I just push plug in rubber only far enough to hold the plug, then start it a bit, pull it out, and use socket without rubber to tighten - if I use the socket with rubber to tighten, when I go to pull the socket out when done, it detaches at the extension and the socket stays in the hole! I can't use the socket without rubber to start plugs, because the plugs would drop in, and maybe close the gap...

[dsmturbo]

Originally Posted by quicksilverdon

DSMTurbo-
When I do the plugs, I use 2 sockets - one with rubber inside, 1 without.
To remove, one with rubber is fine. When putting in new plugs, I just push plug in rubber only far enough to hold the plug, then start it a bit, pull it out, and use socket without rubber to tighten - if I use the socket with rubber to tighten, when I go to pull the socket out when done, it detaches at the extension and the socket stays in the hole! I can't use the socket without rubber to start plugs, because the plugs would drop in, and maybe close the gap...

Well, if I ever change them again, I will just use an old wire and cut off coil end and start them that way. I believe the rubber thingy that was on plug is from the wire boot.

I still don't know why I have a miss at idle when warmed up though.

PS: I have rtv'd rubber to socket, it won't come off any more..LOL

[dsmturbo]

Okay this is weird. I thought I would check for any stored codes, read codes and were none. I cleared codes anyway.
I started car and check engine light is on. I shut off, connected reader and read codes...none showed. I cleared again.

Restarted car, check engine light is on and stays on, car seems to run fine. But I have no idea why light is on now. Any suggestions, this has me boggled