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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 16 Aug 2004, 10:27 pm
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The spring mod is accomplished by attaching a spring (carb spring, usually) from the wastegate arm to a fixed point (like a bolt or an unused boss in the block).

The idea is to provide resistance against the wastegate actuator to keep boost instead of allowing the exhaust to bypass the turbo.

The key is to find the right spring without providing too much resistance on the wastegate actuator (the wastegate still has to work sometime!)

My 2 cents,

Scott
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 17 Aug 2004, 10:25 pm
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I posted this stuff a long time ago on PTE back when I still had my cruiser.

Direct cut and paste from my post on PTE. (dated May 2003 mind you )

I was car 854. The only thing I changed from my original post, is I'm using a better picture host now.

That was running *WITH* the spare tire, *WITH* the rear seats in place, 100% stock, with the stock airfilter, stock exhaust, etc. etc.. and 92 octane gas, tires (stock RSA's on the 17" chrome rims) at 40psi all around, traction control off, and some pretty bad wheel spin/hop resulted in a 2.29 sixty foot *bad as far as things are concerned but whatever* and ignore the R/T. I left the llights late on purpose, that purpose being focus more on a clean run and breaking into the 14's than trying to keep up/pace the car in the next lane.
I still cant find my other 14.9 run with a higher MPH from that night, but when I do I will post it.
All in all for 100% stock i was *VERY* impressed
I am car 854, and these were all run at Great Lakes Dragaway a few weeks ago.
And I will be going back again SOON, with motor/trans mounts in hopefully.

by the way i made ~8 runs back to back with no cooling of the motor and towards the end of the night my MPH was still right with the first runs of the night.
And i learned that my rear drive/all wheel drive racing experiance did NOTHING to help my lack of front drive experaiance as far as drag racing is concerned. I'm a HUGE rookie there! I've got lots to learn, but I'm VERY much looking forward to it.
On another random note, it was turning heads and causing QUITE a stir after the 14 second run, TONS of people were running up to the car and asking what was done to it, what motor, and were SHOCKED to hear it was fully stock! Personally I think it was quite the performer.
OH yeah it's a GT 5 speed manual with leather, heated seats, and a sunroof if that counts for anything other than extra weight

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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 18 Aug 2004, 12:16 am
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Does the clock start with the green light, or after your reaction time?
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 18 Aug 2004, 03:24 am
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Thanks, Gary C for posting the 03 GT Manual times. I knew the Getracs were putting down ALOT of power down to the wheels and were capable of high 14's stock. However, I was never able to prove it at California Speedway (I'm a bad launcher 2.5sec 60' times). In addition, I was using 91 Octane.

What's your secret for getting the 2.2sec 60'ft time???
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 18 Aug 2004, 09:55 am
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robinjoe: The clock starts when you 'break the lights' (start moving).
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 18 Aug 2004, 09:49 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Gary04GT
Our AutoStick automatic PT Turbo hit 60 in a brisk 6.7 seconds, and then spanked the quarter mile in 15.3 seconds at 92 MPH!

How did they manage that? [:I]

I thought it was 7.2 for autostick?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 18 Aug 2004, 10:07 pm
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I've seen Auto GT's do 15.7 and 15.2 on the same day. Some Auto's are fast, some do the stated 1/4 mile time. It's like playing russian roulette when you pick a GT off the lot.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 19 Aug 2004, 02:57 am
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there is no secret really. I've made hundreds of passes down the quarter mile.
Those times were the first (and unfortunatly only time) I ran a front drive car at the track.
I have tons of experiance racing rear drive and all wheel drive cars, so that definatly came into play. Feather the clutch and throttle, start slipping it at about 1500 rpm leaving the lights with the traction control OFF. Then continue to feed in the gas whilst slipping the clutch until your engine speed matches your ground speed (if that makes sense) and by that point you should be at or near full throttle, then shift into second at your shift point and go! [8)]
That's what worked for me, I honestly don't remember my shift points or exact technique, but that's the easiest way I can think of to describe it.
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