Life of the Turbo

[turbomangt]

With all the add ons I hear poeple doing to modify their turbo (S1 is a good example) what kind of life can we expect to get of the motor/turbo? Just curious if we can see 100,000? 150,000 or????with no problems [:I]

[COP TZER]

As with ANY turbo car (aftermarket or not), expecting 150K kilometers trouble free is unrealistic. In general, turbo cars require more "attention" than N/A. They require constant up-keep; how many times for example did you think of letting your N/A car idle down for the correct amount of time? Even at stock boost levels, don't expect this motor to be pulling strong at 150,000km without regular and serious maintenance...

[cruisergt]

I had a 1986 Chrysler Lebarron GTS with the 2.2L turbo, bought it new kept it for 8 years 125,000 miles, turbo still worked great. Only engine work I did was to replace the head gasket at 100,000.

[turbomangt]

So is it the turbo itself that requires more upkeep? if so, then I would say getting the S2 or S3 (don't these systems replace the turbo with a larger one?) That being the case, perhaps waiting till you get some miles on the turbo would make more sense to replace with s2 s3 later down the road, does that make sense? gary

[Turbo Tommy]

I have heard this so many times, there is a good amount of info about turbo motor life at gary donovans web site

www.thedodgegarage.com

Anyway, Chrysler can't afford for the motor not to last through it's 7-70 warranty, and all the performance magazines that have looked inside, say it is one tough motor. So as someone with 3 other 80's chrysler turbo products, don't worry so much, use mobil 1 and change it regularly, and give the turbo idle time, and I think you'll find the car will last a long time. Worry more if you have an A604 (now called 41TE) autostick trans,, but thats another story.

As for turbo life, my 88 daytona shelby z had a motor rebuild at over 150,000 miles, the turbo was tighter than anything else was, and that car had been really abused before I got a hold of it.

[alceryes]

quote:Originally posted by Turbo Tommy

I have heard this so many times, there is a good amount of info about turbo motor life at gary donovans web site

www.thedodgegarage.com

...Worry more if you have an A604 (now called 41TE) autostick trans,, but thats another story....

What's wrong with the autostick trans???

[bobs turbo pt]

what is the "other story"behind the auto stick??

[Cal Cruzer]

I have had 2 turbo 4 cyl cars last to 200,000 using synth. Not DC cars but turbos are turbos.

[Turbo Tommy]

I posted this once before.

The autostick trans is an 41TE. Break it down and 4 is for number of speeds, 1 is torque rating, t is transverse, and e is electronic. That trans is used on all fwd mopars since around 89, other than sebring coupes, they may use a mitsibshi trans. Since it is a stretched eclipse. The 41TE is used in the minivan, in fact that is were it made it's debut in 1989, but then it was called an A604. Over the years the trans has been improved and worked over, but it is pretty much the same trans as 1989. The name was changed from A604 "ultradrive" to 41TE because at first they were very trouble prone, so chrysler didn't want any media relations issues with consumers, so they switched the names. It has been used and is still used in all fwd chrysler products since. The trans on the Lh cars, the A606 now known as 42LE is basically a 41TE (A604) internally with a different case and differential.
This trans was state of the art in 89' fully electronically shifted, no governor or hydraulic shift controls like a normal older trans. All shifts were done via solinoides, which were controled by computer. The transmission is addaptive, meaning it can learn your driving style and shift accordingly. If you are a sportier driver, it will time shifts later, and make them more firm. If you drive like grandma, it will shift sooner and very soft. It can addapt for wear by the amount of pressure it applys to bands and such. When it is new it doesn't require as much pressure to hold a band, but in time as things were it puts more pressure to the bands, and other parts to keep from having any slippiage. It will do this until it can't anymore. then you start to have slippage and other problems
You can train it to shift firm, by disconnecting the battery, and when you reconnect it, go out and pound on it, and it will shift firm and hard for a few days. (don't hold me liable if you have a problem)
The biggest problems originally was that the computer would try to make shifts imperceptible, and it did this by trying to hold one gear while engageing the next, basically the oposite of a shift flare, this put so much stress on internall componets, that is why early ones failed so often. Also early ones had problems with clogged coolers and burned themselves out, or wrong fluid was used.
From what I have read forcing firmer shifts is acctually better for it, because it doesn't try to hold one gear and engage the next as severly, it is forced to make a quicker shift with less gear holding overlap. The trans will post codes that the scan computer at say a dealer can pull, I'm not sure if you can get them with the check engine light on the dash.
Also you can only use mopar ATF+4 fluid, anything else will ruin the trans, don't believe anyone that tells you differenty.

As for autostck you just give the computer a signal for up or down shift, it then looks at all the sensor date and decides to allow or deny it, that is why the slight delay. Then based on driving style, and lots of factors it shifts hard or soft. Also I think the autostick shifts are more firm, because the engineers feel it is suposed to be more manual like and they want you to feel a distinct shift, so it is programmed that way.

They are supose to be much better now, and are teamed up with some torquey motors, so I wouldn't worry to much. But everything I have learned is that the motors are generaly stronger than the trans.

[Punch]

quote:Originally posted by Turbo Tommy

I posted this once before.
The biggest problems originally was that the computer would try to make shifts imperceptible, and it did this by trying to hold one gear while engageing the next, basically the oposite of a shift flare, this put so much stress on internall componets, that is why early ones failed so often.


*****umm don't all tranny do this? that is why when people install a shift kit, you get slammed into the seat, due to the instant gear change. most people don't want to feal the shifts.


Also early ones had problems with clogged coolers and burned themselves out, or wrong fluid was used.


**** wrong fluid well duh!!!


From what I have read forcing firmer shifts is acctually better for it, because it doesn't try to hold one gear and engage the next as severly, it is forced to make a quicker shift with less gear holding overlap.



****** exactly a firm shift is better for the tranny...