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BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

 
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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:07 pm
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Post BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

Hi every one! here is what I did on my PT and hope to be some help to all the guys that were "blank" like me, before I install my gauge... Its a 2" 5/8 Marshall Boost Gauge, I know its a bit big but look great and easy to read

I want to thank My Buddy's here... XtrmDC2, and Kawizx9r for all the support and Chromenut for the service manuals

STEP1:

Remove always your battery, I removed the 2 sides because I was going to work for about 2 hours



STEP2:

Pull the A pillar covers, by simply pulling them from the upper part, and then from the sides, and last pull them gently in direction to the roof, so you don't damage the guidelines in the bottom, you will see 2 clips that will snap when you remove the pillar covers... don't get scared and apply this proses for both.











STEP3:

Removing the center console, by this you need to remove first the window controls, its so simple that you don't need to use a flat screw driver to pop it out, at least in my case, but if you need it will pop easy...



Next you need to disconnect the plug to the controllers, by removing or pulling the red clip and easy pull out the connector.



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Last edited by niel; 21 Oct 2011 at 10:16 pm.
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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:08 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP4:

Removing the whole center console, its an easy part, you just need to locate the only screw that holds everything, and its located in the upper center part, and then just remove the climate control knobs by simply pulling them gently as shown

Then simply pull all the panel, with your hands... again if you need a flat screw driver, use it, but cover it with something soft so you don't damage your console, you will hear snaps and cracks... but its normal because of the clips that hold the console but don't be scared you wont brake a thing...







STEP5:

Time to remove the upper dash... its more easy that you imagine, its hold by 2 screws , just remove them and then pull it in your direction,because its hold by some kind of fork things that enter in place and take note!... never pull it up... always in your direction ok?

You first do the 2 sides go left then right and if needed pull it from the hole that shows your Vin number that's a good grip over there











And this is how it will look

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Last edited by niel; 21 Oct 2011 at 10:22 pm.
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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:09 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 6:

With your dash out its time to do your template... I bought a Single Gauge pod, But I bought it carbon fiber look...Thinking that would match the GT carbon fiber look from the console... But Gosh! It was so riced out that I sandpaper it and then paint it with flat black spray paint and wow! what a difference.. I use a 7/8 drill head to drill the big hole... so the vacuum line and the electric wires don't get pinched...









Here is my ricer gouge pod but then fixed... as you can see... I use this brand for paint because was the better one in home depot, and as you can see I spray it from far away and sprays big round areas, for no messy paint and fast dry.







Don't forget to water clean it



Here is the paint Brand





Finished Product looking nice!

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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:10 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 7:

Now its time to pass the vacuum line through the dash... you do this by pasing it from the kinda oval shaped hole where the electrical cables from the module go through... its easy... just slide it and see how it appears behind the AC or Vent ducts... Since the line its all curved because of the way it was packed, its easy to reach the point where it will come to your direction...you just keep pushing it til its out, then you pull out all you can, and curve it from just a side from the left duct in direction to the cluster console, you will see a hole in the metal frame... pass it there, in direction to your steering wheel.... as shown in the pics.











Next thing its to open the part that its located under the steering wheel... its so easy, just pull it down and you will hear s snap and ready its like a glove box, there you will see where your line its coming from





So the next thing its to pass the line free of bends, this means you need to pass it above the steering column, you can see that there are 2 holes in the support, pass it there its the best way and try not to go under any cable ok?



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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:11 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 8:

This step its kind of tricky... because you need to pass the vacuum line through the rubber covered hole or gasket in the firewall, where the hood opening line goes... so what I did was to pass a small screw driver from the engine side to the inside of the car, long and thick enough so the vacuum line will fin in it and use it as a guide line and ready... you can pass easy the line but if you want you can just try to pass it trough the hole in the gasket it can be done that way if your line its more harder than the one I used...

To locate the hole from the engine compartment you just look under the PCM and the brake fluid tank... there he is all hidden





And then you just pull it out till you get the length you need to tap a vacuum line in the Throttle Body.



STEP 9:

Tapping your line with a T fitting... in this part I used the one that came with my Boost Gauge... Some will say its a cheap one, or that you need a metal one or bigger... since I look and it had all the measurements that I need it, I didn't spend in another, but still you can buy a better quality one, I admit this is one of those cheap but gets the job done, and in the manual says that it is heat resistant and the specific one for my application so I use this one...

I used the elbow vacuum line coming from the Throttle Body, because I didn't need to cut anything, just add 3 inches of rubber hose like the ones used in the coolant lines and 3 clamps and 2 zip ties as you can see in the picture...

Just separate the hard vacuum line from the elbow, and add the fitting, then in the other side add the 2 to 3" hose and there put the hard vacuum line, its easy... the vacuum line from the gauge goes to the T fitting and zip tie well because you don't want any boost leak over there

NOTE: Some will use the vacuum line from the intake to the brake booster... I really don't want to mess anything with the brakes and have an accident so I did it this way and works too well 100%



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Last edited by niel; 21 Oct 2011 at 10:27 pm.
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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:12 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 10:

You need to have now your gauge ready on the pod, so you can work with it, mount it, and then bring your dash back to the car, and put it in place, DON'T install it ok? just present it in the dash... leave it loose, so you can work, because in this step you need to pass the vacuum line through the hole we made in the dash and plug it to the gauge with some zip ties, remember that this will be your last vacuum line installation so tight it up.

And now for the electric wires just pass them through the hole in the dash as shown









STEP 11:

Pass the electric wires with the same proses as with the vacuum line, just in this case, you need to do it from the right side of the vent ducts or A/C ducts, so you don't have a mess inside the dash... its more easy, when you pass your wires through the hole you will see them under the dash, just grab some pliers or a long hook to reach them... and ready, here its a pic... remember to do this in preference in the right duct side ok?



STEP 12:

Now the electrical part.
For this I used the connector that controls the climate, its not a module, its just the simple connector that brings energy to the console so there's no danger in here, it send the signal to the module and receives a 12v signal from when you turn your lights up, or your day lights, or console dash lights... I didn't cut any wire, maybe here is where some will say that its not safe, but believe me its more safe than if you cut and peel a wire to add more wire... What I did was and advice from an electric tech from a stereo shop here.

What I did its so simple: first you remove the white climate console, by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the frame, then, disconnect the only connector that you will see... you can see 2 kind of hoses there on the right side, they are like vacuum hoses for the defrost I think, once you unplug the connector you can see that the first wire its an orange ( at least in my car) that's the hot wire that when you turn your lights on... sends a 12v power for the lights in the dash to com on, you just need to peel a bit, with a cutter, like scratching it, or if you have a peel tool use it, then you just connect there the positive wire from the gauge as shown ...





Here is the orange hot wire...



And now the method:





Remember to cover it with some black electrical tape, not to tight..



If you want you can rectify this with a voltmeter, you just need to connect your battery, then put the red testing cable from the voltmeter in the first pin, and the last in the last one ( the last one its the ground) you wont see a change in the voltage until you turn your key on and the lights then you will see that it goes to 12v to 12.4v, it depends on how good its your battery, mine its a little gone hehe... so there you have the test... the other pins wont send any Voltage because they are not in use... at least if you turn your A/C
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Last edited by niel; 21 Oct 2011 at 10:34 pm.
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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:13 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 13:

The ground...

I didn't use the connector's ground because I didn't what to peel another cable... So what I did its too simple. I just run my ground from the right side and put it on the first right upper "STAR" screw of my stereo (NOT THE BLACK NORMAL ONE),I really don't know what size of star screw driver I used because the set I have is not marked

SO! this is a safe and good ground, and so easy to place...





Remember to put a little tape in this corner just to be sure that you don't pinch it wen you put back your center dash cover



Now your almost done with the installation, just put a zip tie for the wires as shown, for security reasons, you don't want any loose cable inside your dash

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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:13 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 14:

Time to put everything back in place

First you start by putting the white climate console as shown, and remember to plug the connector





Its hold by 2 screws only



Now just slide the dash in place... remember to do it sliding it to the wind shield because it has some kind of forks that enter in their respective ports, and when in place, just punch it a little with your open hand palm so you hear a snap! and ready





And remember to put the 2 crews that hold it...



Then put in place the center console cover, you will hear snaps and cracks! that is normal because of the holding clips

Then put the climate controls knobs in place



And then put the one screw holding the center console cover, that its located in the upper middle part as shown:



Then put back the Power Window console, by putting the connector in place and snap the part in place... And remember that all the connectors have their red safe clip, don't forget to put it back in place ok?



The next part is to put the A pillars in place by sliding them first from the down part then snap them in place





And Finish your done!!!! here are a couple of pics of how it looks



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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:14 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

STEP 15:

The Test... And Answers !!!

As for my self as a "newbie first timer Boost Gauge user" I had a lot of questions, so here its what you need to know...

First of all, your boost gauge when purchased... needs to be the needle pointing in 0 (zero)...



When you Start your engine, the needle will drop to vacuum from -20 to -18 in idle in park...



When your in drive it will go up just a little, but when you drive it will be moving in the vacuum zone from -20 to 0 even in some positive PSI when driving in normal conditions...

Here is a pic of how it looks when you put it in drive or in gear depending of your transmission... as you can see it goes to - 15 to -16 of vacuum depending on how hot your engine is, the pic is standing in drive...



And when you put your car in drive and with the A/C on... you will see that the needle will even go upper to the -12 to -14 vacuum as in the pic... remember that I did this pics with my cold engine



And now for the boost part:

When you are in the highway driving it will be on 0 (zero) almost all the time, or in the vacuum zone, but if you push the pedal to boost, I see the major boost in 3rd gear... It will go to 12 psi then drop a little to 10 or 11 and it needs to stay constant until you let go the gas, so remember you will see a max of 12 psi and a little drop to 10 psi... remember that this is on a bone stock 2003 PT Cruiser GT High Output, I really don't know the numbers for the turbo lite or the stage 1, but I know that stage 1 produce more boost and if you have hard pipes even more.

Sorry guys, I don't have any Boost pics because its dangerous to take the pictures, and no one in my family wants to go with me in my PT when I do the test in open road, they don't like the speed

So thank you guys for reading all this, and hope this was helpful, I feel the need to share this as my gratitude to all of the forum members that have helped me over this time, and to help all the guys that where blank like me... I know that maybe some one already put a post like this, but hope this one helps you even more and clear a lot of issues and questions...

Thanks guys
Daniel Rodriguez
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Last edited by niel; 21 Oct 2011 at 10:48 pm.
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Old 21 Oct 2011, 10:25 pm
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Default Re: BOOST GAUGE TUTORIAL (Up dash mount)

WOW, nice write up !!!! and it came out beautiful
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