New Spark Plugs

[SteelBlueGT]

Just ordered NGK Iridium plugs LZTR5AIX-13 stodck # 2314 from SparkPlugs.Com and since they are local I should get them next day![8D]
Total cost including CA tax and shiping was $39.61. Just wondering if I should try and gap them to the new factory spec of 0.040" or leave them at 0.052? I have also purchased new wires from MOPAR (P4876511) which I will install at same time.

[crazie.eddie]

I ordered the same plugs, but after further research, I refused the shipment and ordered LZTR6AIX-13. The LZTR6AIX-13, runs colder than the LZTR5AIX-13. If you plan future high performance mods (upgrade turbo, boost controller, stage 2, etc.), you should go with LZTR6AIX-13, otherwise, what you order should be sufficient. I also read on NGK's website that it's better to run a colder plug than one that will run too hot. With a plug that is run too hot, there is a possibility of engine damage. Too cold would lead to fouled plug(s)

Also, I spoke to a tech. They recommend not to change the gap on the NGKs.

[crazie.eddie]

In addition to my above post, I found this thread that states the following...

quote:Warning:

Some of you may or may not know this. But you are not supposed to check the gap on a platinum or iridium plug. Honda reccomends that you dont do this. My theory is that you will embed metal onto the plug which will effect its properties and performance. Just pull out of the box and install.

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by crazie.eddie

In addition to my above post, I found this thread that states the following...

Well, when I did my plugs 1 only found 1 that was close - the other three were quite a bit off - 1 too close, other 2 too wide a gap.[:I]

[crazie.eddie]

Hmmm. Maybe I should check them when mine NGK's come in. I'm new at this, what's the better gauge to use to gap them, wire or the flat type? This URL on changing spark plugs[/url] to use a a 5/6" rubber vacuum line to slip on the plug for removing or installing if it's too hard to reach, from the looks of the car, I'm assuming it's not necessary, correct?

[littleblueGT]

[8D]My GT is stock , but the 6 heat range should be right on the money. If you look at your plugs and they are clean and white they are too hot! The stock turbo should run plugs at least 2 heat ranges cooler than a n/a PT or engine damage could result.I had the stock champions come apart that is the ceramic chipped. The dealer replaced them twice along with plug wires with in the first 7,500 miles.Also check for carbon tracing above the 5/8 hex going up the insulator ceramic.That will indicate leakage and high voltage will eventually travel down to ground causing missfiring.The proper heat range is very important and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.It's too bad Chrysler didn't help us on this problem, the mechanics would just throw a set of plugs in and not report the full extent of the problems.I was pissed off and made a report to DC and never heard any more from them.If reports are not initiated by the dealers nothing will happen. In the future there will be engines replaced due to this oversight and I wonder who will take the blame.I saved the stock plugs that were chipped just in case and informed the service manager.

[SteelBlueGT]

Stock plugs have done OK with me so I think the heat range should be OK. From Denso Plug Co: In most cases your Iridium Power plugs do not need to be gapped. Even with small variations in the factory set gap the ultra-efficient firing power design will compensate for those small variations. Should you decide to re-gap your Iridium Power plug, use extreme caution as improper gapping may damage or destroy the Iridium center electrode or porcelain center. To increase the gap size: Step 1 Use needle nose pliers or spark plug gapping tool to bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN. Step 2 Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. To decrease the gap size: Step 1 Use the same method as above, however bend the ground strap down to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN. Step 2 Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.

This tool looks nice to me: http://www.performanceproducts.com/P...0&referer=1650

[PTGT_Boy]

If your using the stock plugs, is it okay to use the round gapping tool? Is it also okay to use a small amount of anti-seizing compound (silicone-silver based) on the threads of the spark plugs?

I changed out my old splugs and wires after 11,000 miles and roughly 12 1/4 mile track runs. The plugs had normal wear and were still gapped at 0.050. My new stock plugs are set at 0.044 (I used the round gapping tool, the one that has set settings on the edges of a circular tool) and a new set of 7.5mm Mopar performance wires. So far, I haven't noticed any unusual behavior of my car.

[Mean Green]

So are these NGK Iridium plugs showing a big difference? I wouldn't think so as the copper plus are more than adequate. I'm using copper plus and my GT runs extremely well. I think people are getting caught up in the marketing scheme of things. Marketing says it's better and they cost more so it must be so.

[SteelBlueGT]

PTGT_Boy, Yes, I have used the round type gauge for over 30 years with no problems on regular and copper plugs. This is what Champion says about anti-seize compound: Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. AND NGK says: We don't recommend anti seize due to the fact it directly affects torque of the spark plug. In addition to this it can affect heat dissipation. We
don't have anything written concerning this issue.
Jon MacQuarrie
Technical Support Specialist
jmacquarrie@ngksparkplugs.com
Remember, only replace or install spark plugs when the engine is cool as diffewrent metals react to heat differently and you can damage the head if you try and and work on the plugs when the engine is hot.