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Has anyone had the unfortunate luck to break an exhaust stud when they were installing thier downpipe[:I]? If so, please explain what was the best method for removal of the broken stud.[:0]
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That is some bad luck. You will probably have to remove the O2 housing and drill it out. If you are going to go that far you are better off replacing the stock O2 housing with a 3" one.
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I apologize that my message wasn't more clear, I am in the middle of changing the stock downpipe to the Trubenz 3" and 21/2" exhaust all the way back. When I was re-installing the new downpipe one of the captive studs in the manifold broke off. Has this happened to anyone else?
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04 Lite Stage1, Mopar BOV, TruBenz 3\" downpipe and 2.5 magnaflow, V.A.K upcharge and Intake, Greddy Profec2, AGP WGA |
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I don't know of anyone that this has happened to. And I have broken a lot of things on my PT.
That captive stud is located in a piece called the O2 housing. Because space it tight in that area you will have to remove the O2 housing to replace the stud. With a lot of effort it can be removed from the exhaust manifold. You can not buy a replacement unit from Mopar without buying the whole turbo and manifold. You may be able to drill out the old stud and replace it with a new one. In my opinion you would be ahead of the game by replacing it with an aftermarket housing. Maxxfab and Exhaust Depot make them for the PT. Anyone else have a better idea? |
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Thanks for the info, I am going to try and remove the stud now that I know there is another option if I break something else. Wish me luck.
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04 Lite Stage1, Mopar BOV, TruBenz 3\" downpipe and 2.5 magnaflow, V.A.K upcharge and Intake, Greddy Profec2, AGP WGA |
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If your talking about the bolts in the lower end of the O2 housing...they just pound out. They are similar to a wheel-stud and have a splined portion of the bolt that doesn't allow it to spin. Just put a drift-pin or something similar on the broken end of the bolt and punch up toward the engine for the lower 3 bolts. If it's the upper bolt it is installed backwards from the factory and would need to be punched the opposite direction (downwards).
Deen
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GT, 5-Spd, K&N filter, Stage I, AGP 3147 Big Turbo, DTEC Fuel Kit, Tial WGA, Greddy Profec EBC, DCR 55mm TB, 05 Plastic Manifold, 180 Deg. Stat, CCA FMIC, AMX hard-pipes, Water-Injection, STS shifter, Needswings 3\" DP w/dump and Borla Cat-back, BG Drop Springs, Eibach Sway Bars, Panther alloys & Eagle F1 Max-Performance Tires. Best run to date...12.93 @113.45MPH. 77 Blown Vette-runs 10\'s @ 136 MPH. |
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Thanks for the help, I was able to get it out and the new downpipe and exhaust in. By the way, the Trubenz downpipe and exhaust is definately a great buy and performance product.[^]
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04 Lite Stage1, Mopar BOV, TruBenz 3\" downpipe and 2.5 magnaflow, V.A.K upcharge and Intake, Greddy Profec2, AGP WGA |
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Thanks for the info Hyracer. Good stuff to know [?]
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See Kevin's 2003 Elec Blue GT here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/477590/1 |
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Heh, Heh,
I'm just speaking from experiance[:0] My top bolt stripped out while trying to undue it for the MaxFab DP. I had to use a hacksaw blade to cut it in half...and then pound the end of the stud out.[xx(] Deen
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GT, 5-Spd, K&N filter, Stage I, AGP 3147 Big Turbo, DTEC Fuel Kit, Tial WGA, Greddy Profec EBC, DCR 55mm TB, 05 Plastic Manifold, 180 Deg. Stat, CCA FMIC, AMX hard-pipes, Water-Injection, STS shifter, Needswings 3\" DP w/dump and Borla Cat-back, BG Drop Springs, Eibach Sway Bars, Panther alloys & Eagle F1 Max-Performance Tires. Best run to date...12.93 @113.45MPH. 77 Blown Vette-runs 10\'s @ 136 MPH. |
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Before you install a DP, you MUST use wd40. It makes it so much easier to remove. Especialy the 12 oclock bolt. IF the tang on the nut spins on the back, good luck. I had to use my plasma cutter to remove one before.
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![]() E.D. 3\" Turbo Back, , HKS SSBOV, GReddy-e01 Boost controller, Greddy E-manage fuel management, Blitz Turbo Timer, JE pistons, Ported Head, E.D. Large Frontmount Intercooler, E.D. Tubular manifold with t3/t4 (prototype), IPP coilovers, Limited Slip. |
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