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Cure for dimming/flicker lights


 
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04 Feb 2005, 10:04 am
TurbozCS2003 TurbozCS2003 is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by igormina

Like many of us experienced this problem (dimming, flicker lights, chocking horn sound in the night time). Yesterday left GT in local dealership. Re(from service invoice):" ...Tech found that the multifunction switch is shorted. Tech replaced switch. Description - Switch MU 8053059 Warranty..." Assist.service mngr said that they aware of that problem and have some kind of TSB. Hopefully this is gonna help some of us... [?]
Did you ask him for a copy of the TSB to see what is says? It would be good info to have, would indicate the models affected, build dates and solution, parts, replacement time etc. If there is any issues with my cars, I always ask to see and get a copy of the TSB's.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04 Feb 2005, 10:39 am
SuGamer SuGamer is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Paw

I asked my dealer Tech while I had the car in for the PCM replace. He tested the alternator output with their test gears. He can't see the flicker but did say it my alternator could be the cause. He also said DC will not replace it on spec. I am learning to live with it and also hoping that it fail before my warranty period runs out.

[xx(]
If your tech actually mentioned "alternator" then I wouldn't trust
his info. PT's don't have alternators, we have generators. The difference? Alternator are AC, generators are DC.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 01:38 am
Paw Paw is offline
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the generator it is, that what he tested and think it might be the possible cause. Will try to talk to him next trip to town. Thanks for correcting me.

Paw
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 01:43 am
SuGamer SuGamer is offline
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Old 16 Feb 2005, 10:14 am
SuGamer SuGamer is offline
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I have a voltmeter installed in an A pillar dual gauge pod, and I notice the lights flicker when the voltage drops slightly. I'm suspecting a dirty or weak ground. I will be installing "Mean Green's Hyperground Solution" this weekend. It should correct this hopefully.
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Black 2004 PT Cruiser GT with chrome accent package, chrome door spears, billet gauge eyebrows, chrome beltline, Autotechnica tail light covers painted body color, TYC by Elegente backup lights and GPS Navigation. Silver dragons on sides and hood. Stage 1! Spark plugs gapped to .040, and installed a set of Crane Firewires. BTG cold air intake, AMX1397\'s Turbo Up Charge Pipe, Boomba Racing BOV, Hallman Pro PX manual boost controller and Mean Green\'s Hyperground Solution.

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 12:25 pm
purple04 purple04 is offline
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SuGamer, all new cars have alternators. Generators were phased out when weight, output and RPM made them obsolete. Mostly by the mid-sixties. Generator has become a misused term, mainly due to GM still putting "GEN" on the idiot lights. Quick ID is if it has a steel shell with heavy magnets(like a starter), it's a generator. If it has an aluminum case and there is a split with windings in the center, it's an alternator. If there is a diode (actually 6) in it, It's an alternator. A motor uses external power, an engine develops internal power; how many of us still use "motor" for the gasoline engine?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 02:02 pm
tallypt tallypt is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by SuGamer

I have a voltmeter installed in an A pillar dual gauge pod, and I notice the lights flicker when the voltage drops slightly. I'm suspecting a dirty or weak ground. I will be installing "Mean Green's Hyperground Solution" this weekend. It should correct this hopefully.
I have installed a hyper ground and the dimming/flicker remains. It may have diminished somewhat but I have no way of actually testing the frequency other than by "what I see" which is not very scientific.

Hubert
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 02:50 pm
SuGamer SuGamer is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by purple04

SuGamer, all new cars have alternators. Generators were phased out when weight, output and RPM made them obsolete. Mostly by the mid-sixties. Generator has become a misused term, mainly due to GM still putting "GEN" on the idiot lights. Quick ID is if it has a steel shell with heavy magnets(like a starter), it's a generator. If it has an aluminum case and there is a split with windings in the center, it's an alternator. If there is a diode (actually 6) in it, It's an alternator. A motor uses external power, an engine develops internal power; how many of us still use "motor" for the gasoline engine?
I understand your point, but according to Chrysler itself, all their cars use generators not alternators. According to them, they say the difference is that alternators are AC, and generators are DC. Just going by the posted info. [:I]
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 17 Feb 2005, 01:45 am
1ptturbo 1ptturbo is offline
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Simply, the "generator" produces ac and the diode rectifier converts this to dc.
As I stated before I have two problems. 1) The moment when I hit the brakes my lights dim. 2) My lights constantly flicker.
I believe both are related to the alternator. I am going to take it to the dealer soon, when it quits raining.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 17 Feb 2005, 12:59 pm
RallyDRock RallyDRock is offline
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mine dont dim but do flicker. im going to try adding a capacitor to the power line to see if it helps. it is definitely from the alternator because it changes with engine rpm and electrical load.
along with the generator=DC and alternator=AC the alternator energizes the armature (moving part) to control the output via voltage regulator. a generator energizes the stator (non-moving part).
the diode trio/bridge rectifier convert AC to DC and try to flatten out the bumps. Apparently it doesn't do a good enough job because there is some power fluctuation going on. Now this could raise a concern for those that are running carputers, laptops, or other sensitive electronic equipment. In that situation a DC/DC converter should be used.

the dimming when the brakes are pressed is most likely a poor ground somewhere in the brake lamp circuit, could be the brake switch by the pedal, the wires going to the bulbs, or anywhere else in the circuit. consult the wiring diagram in the service manual to pinpoint the grounds and their locations.
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