Upcharge Pipe efficiency

[Mel K]

I understand the reasons to replace the OEM hose with metal tubing, but the change has some inherent disadvantages. The rubber hose helps insulate the air from the heat of the engine. Just has the intercooler is a radiator to cool the air, the 2.5' to 3' of metal tubing running in close proximity to the engine acts as a radiator to warm the air. It's something like running the A/C full blast on a warm summer day with the windows down. Notice the difference with the windows up? Wouldn't we increase the efficiency of the upcharge metal tubing by utilizing the OEM rubber by slitting it along its length and wrapping it around the metal tubing? Or if that doesn't work, acquire some rubber hose or heat resistant material to wrap the upcharge. Just a theory.

[crazie.eddie]

I'm not a gear head, but theoritically it sounds correct. Maybe wrap the tube around with some heat shielding. Those who replaced the air intake pipe, which connects all the way to the turbo, should have some kind of heat shielding as well.

I wondering if using PVC pipe for the upcharge pipe would be efficient and durable enough to withstand engine temps? I know some people have used PVC pipe for the air intake pipe.

[Cal Cruzer]

quote:Originally posted by crazie.eddie

I'm not a gear head, but theoritically it sounds correct. Maybe wrap the tube around with some heat shielding. Those who replaced the air intake pipe, which connects all the way to the turbo, should have some kind of heat shielding as well.

I wondering if using PVC pipe for the upcharge pipe would be efficient and durable enough to withstand engine temps? I know some people have used PVC pipe for the air intake pipe.

Pretty much anything you put under the hood will get heat soaked. My particular solution uses only a few inches of metal tubing but the entire pipe, consisting of rubber and silicone bends, will get warm under the hood. The volume of air moves fairly quickly through the intake however and really does not have much time to get hot. There are some who will insist that it makes no difference how hot the air is going in but I am a firm believer in cool intake air. The temp in my airbox on the way to work this morning was about 55 degrees. My car just likes a cool intake charge. In the middle of summer when the intake charge is up towards 100-120 the car just is not as peppy. Get air into that airbox.

[littleblueGT]

[8)]I insulated my up charge pipe and the lower IC pipe using flexable aluminum heater/dryer exhaust tubing 3in dia.There is air between the aluminum pipe and the OEM rubber pipe and acts as an insulator.I found that in stop and go traffic on the freeway in 100 deg temps the throttle response was sluggish, especially with the AC on. After the modification the PT was more responsive. As the IC pipes are behind the radiator hot air is blown over them when driving and when the fan is operating in traffic, this mod seemed to help. Hope it helps some of you. Caution,aluminum is conductive,the pipe is in close proximity to the positive battery terminal.Put insulation around the bat terminal clamp so there is no metal to metal contact.

[dfunkdj]

the problem i had with the stock upcharge pipe is when it gets hot it expands and contracts with the boost. next time its hot out open your hood and feel how soft the hose. I am not sure how hot the metal upcharge pipe get next to the motor but you should try one like mine I had a custom made one done I will post pic as soon as I take some


Don

[bigtommy83]

The air is getting sucked through that pipe pretty quickly. The intercooler cools the intake air from the turbo. It goes through the intercooler in small vanes and the heat is extracted. When it goes through the piping, it is going to fast through there to get heat soaked. Instead of going through 1/4 inch channels, it is going through a 2.5 inch or so pipe. There is not enough heat to completely penetrate the cool air getting shoved through that 2 and a half feet of pipe. For those of you that say it works to insulate it, that's good. I just don't see how it would especially benefit. Guess I would have to try it myself.

[Mel K]

Actually, to get the same volume of air through a system, the air will be moving slower in the upcharge (which has a large diameter) then rushing through the small vanes of the intercooler. There has to be some effect with the pipe being heated by the engine. How great the effect and what that does to performance figures would be subject to tests. But, if cooler incoming temperatures are what you are looking for, then insulation would probably help.

[GR8FLPT]

the reasoning DC uses a rubber hose for that pipe is:

1) cheaper
2) easier to insatll during assembly
3) (the big one) passes crash tests better than metal

Thuis was discussed w/ engineers at the block party.

But it doesn't mean it would not work. They agreed that there would be measurable difference in going to a solid pipe & removing the silentcers. how much they could not say.

They told me just removing all the restrictive silentcers would make a difference. They were designed in to remove the various noises for the turbo's intake to get the car more quiet for the general public.

[PTGT_Boy]

I had my 04 GT 5-Speed Manual dynoed with Stage 1 with Adam's Upcharge and Intake Pipes at Tunning Technologies.

Mods: Stage 1, Mopar/Borla dualies, Forge BoV, H&R Coilovers, Adam's upcharge/intake pipes, Stock Airbox w/o Silences, SSR Competitions 17x7.5 with Michellins XGT Z4. 91 OCTANE GAS *CHOKE*

Useless mods for dynos: Xenon Body Kit/CC roll pan, Mopar/Hurst Shifta.

A dyno fan was used this time. It was a nice 75 F day with humidty of 30%. SAE of 1.02

1st Run (Dynoed 10 minutes after running around with rice_killing_gt on the freeway at 105 MPH. I think the new Thunderbird driver was pissed that 2 turbo cruisers did a ricerflyby )

WHP: 223.25 WTQ: 232.68

2nd Run (3 minutes later)

WHP: 222.92 WTQ: 237.67

3rd Run (after 10 minutes and fans cooling down the car)

WHP: 229.76 WTQ: 247.21


A week ago, I took off Adam's Upcharge and Intake Pipes and used the stock uppercharge pipe and intake. The dyno was performed at Dynoworks. The conditions and mods are the same. Tunning Technologies and Dynoworks are about 5 miles apart from each other.

1st Run: The car was semi-warmed up. Needle was about 1/4 warm.

WHP: 220 & WTQ: 247.7

2nd Run: This was runned right after the 1st Run, no wait period. It's pretty much hot now.

WHP: 222 & WTQ: 243.3

3rd Run: This was runned right after the 3rd Run. You can bet this car is sucking in heat.

WHP: 209.7 & WTQ: 230.2


Conclusions:

The uppercharge pipes help when the car is running in cooler conditions. The stock isn't all that bad, but nothing advantages about it other than it's easy to install and take out. A side note, I did get at least 1 MPG better gas milage with Adam's uppercharge pipe.

[Mike-in-Orange]

quote:Originally posted by PTGT_Boy



Useless mods for dynos: Xenon Body Kit/CC roll pan, Mopar/Hurst Shifta.

But aren't similar mods good for 35-55HP on a Honda?[}]