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Any thoughts on the recommendation that new turbo engines should not be driven hard for the first 1K miles? It was suggested that I should not drive my new GT 04 Turbo over 55 for the first 1K miles?!?!?
I get the cooldown at the end of a hard drive, but is the initial breakin that delicate? |
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Drive it at various RPMs and apply varying amounts of power. When pulling away from a stop, sometimes give it 50% throttle, some times 75% and occationally wide open throttle (for a few seconds, at least). It's important to mix it up a bit. Multiple trips with cool downs in between may help, too.
This would be better than a long trip at one steady speed for instance. You won't be abusing the motor at all to give 'er the gas. Modern engines are built with tolerances close to ideal and don't need extended break-in time to "wear in " the moving parts. Think of it as learning your car and testing it out. You need to be broken in to the car as much as the other way around. Have fun. [8)] [8)] |
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Thats the way you break in any type of engine...turbo or not...any make...read the owners manual....
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Quote:
by facilitating the proper seating of new parts for a "tight engine", flawless performance, and excellent gas mileage (both before and after installing STAGE 1 at 7300 miles). Good luck, and, welcome to the forums, Lonn. [8] |
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Lonn
Just drive and be smart about it. I wouldnt be flooring it all the time. The best thing you can do, with new car is drive it about 50 miles after you pick it up and change the oil and filter. This will dump the first batch of oil which will have the most garbage from assembly. Then at 500 miles dump it again. Then at 1500 miles I would change it and switch it to a synthetic oil. I use Amsoil but Mobile 1 is good too. Then you can go 7500 mile drains with the good synthetic and know your turbo will last. I am finishing a 89 Shadow project car I drove for 195K miles. It has a 2.5 Turbo engine. I used the Amsoil and their filters. I changed the oil on 20K miles drains with their bypass filter.I saved All the rod and main bearings which look brand new and there was very little engine wear. I have gone thru the motor since( bored/hone/decked, cut crank, resized rods etc) it needed a headgasket but I was impressed with it. I wouldnt use anything but a good synthetic oil, especially in a Turbo engine. Mike
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86 Daytona Turbo Z CS T-Tops 2.2 +20\'s A555 Getrag moly plate, Garrett T2 3\"SV 3\" exh GLHS Stg 2 20 PSI Boost 89 Shadow ES Turbo 2.5 T2 Garret A555 Getrag moly plate 2.5 exh 89 Spirit Turbo 90 Daytona ES Turbo 2.5 NPR Cooler, S60 50 Trim, A568 Getrag 3\" Exh +40\'s 3bar Map 90 Daytona Shelby VNT 2.2 T4 A568 Getrag Needs work 00 Durango 5.9 SLT+ 02 WJ Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 03 PTGT Black 5 spd, Stg1, Mopar BOV |
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Sweet. I always liked those little turbo shadows. Fun little sleeper... [8)]
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04 GT 5 spd, S1, Mopar Sways, Eibach springs, Airbox mod, K&N drop-in filter, AGP & AMX hard pipes, debadged, PTeazer grill, bumperette, rollpan, Cowl Induction hood & other assorted painted parts!!! |
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Thanks to all who responded - good info - looks like I have a bit more learnin and things to do, but love the car, so it's worth it.
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in west virginia for sale. These things are rockets if modded a tad. http://www.megahosted.com/gallery/SpiritRT
__________________
86 Daytona Turbo Z CS T-Tops 2.2 +20\'s A555 Getrag moly plate, Garrett T2 3\"SV 3\" exh GLHS Stg 2 20 PSI Boost 89 Shadow ES Turbo 2.5 T2 Garret A555 Getrag moly plate 2.5 exh 89 Spirit Turbo 90 Daytona ES Turbo 2.5 NPR Cooler, S60 50 Trim, A568 Getrag 3\" Exh +40\'s 3bar Map 90 Daytona Shelby VNT 2.2 T4 A568 Getrag Needs work 00 Durango 5.9 SLT+ 02 WJ Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 03 PTGT Black 5 spd, Stg1, Mopar BOV |
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