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best oil filter

 
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02 Feb 2005, 04:09 pm
Kirby Kirby is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rszappa1

and millions of people have and continue to use these filters with no problems....If they were really bad and cause ending problems that have been proven do you think that people would continue to buy them let alone would they even be produced....I dont think so...
Since the comparison results are not in great distribution, we are left with marketing to define quality for us. I don't need to go into the multitude of times that we consumers assumed that someone watched for a given level of effectiveness and were later suprised to find something else. Not every shiny box contains a quality product.

Whatever the quality you choose the 3k mile change will probably save you from destroying your 2.4. (It,s not just the particulate matter that brings on wear in an engine.)
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02 Feb 2005, 04:18 pm
Kirby Kirby is offline
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Thought that having one of the studies might help with this issue!
Check it out!
http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03 Feb 2005, 01:00 am
1ptturbo 1ptturbo is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Cal Cruzer

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 1ptturbo

How about MoPar P/N 04781452AA, you know, the one that was engineered for the Chrysler turbo 2.5L engine. This is the one to use, it works!
[8]
Mopar filters got a mixed review. He described buying a Mopar filter like buying a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get since they did not design or build them but had at least three manufacturers painting their filters white and printing Mopar on them.
I am glad to hear it since my MoPar filters are black with silver printing.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 04:05 am
sawdust123 sawdust123 is offline
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I've got an issue with an intermittent oil light. Several times a week (maybe one in ten starts), the light won't go out. I just have to shut the engine off briefly and restart it for the problem to go away. This has happened with new and old filters.

I was told there are two possible causes for this. First is a bad oil sender. Second, a poor oil filter.

The story I was given (by a dealer) is that a bad oil filter may drain when the engine is off. When the engine starts, air gets trapped in it and causes the sender to detect a problem. Quickly shutting the engine off allows the air to escape and then the filter functions normally. Hmmm, it has an air of plausibility but it also could be a ploy to get me to come to the dealership for changes. What do you think?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 16 Feb 2005, 05:54 pm
SteelBlueGT SteelBlueGT is offline
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Sawdust123, I had to get my oil sender unit changed out at about 10,000 miles as the oil light would not go out. It started to behave just like yours is now though! Just a bad sending unit and all is well now for over 20,000 miles. Warranty item for me! PN 4608303AB
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 17 Feb 2005, 12:46 pm
RallyDRock RallyDRock is offline
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Canton/Mecca filters are the best but at $80 for the housing and between $7-$10 for the replaceable element ill stick with the disposable for now.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 17 Feb 2005, 03:04 pm
shil shil is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by quicksilverdon

I buy my K&N filters online a dozen at a time.
Where? Discount when you buy a dozen?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 26 Feb 2005, 06:15 pm
eliminator eliminator is offline
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Purolator pure 1 and Mobil 1 are both great filters.

Changing oil (especially synthetic) at 3000 miles is a huge waste of money. Even on a turbo motor you can easily go 5000 miles. If you don't believe me, send a sample of your used oil to a lab such as this one:

http://www.oillab.com/

Also, our turbos are WATER COOLED, and the motor has an OIL COOLER. There's virtually no chance of oil coking in the turbo or oil breaking down from high temps.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 26 Feb 2005, 08:27 pm
SuGamer SuGamer is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by eliminator


Purolator pure 1 and Mobil 1 are both great filters.

Changing oil (especially synthetic) at 3000 miles is a huge waste of money. Even on a turbo motor you can easily go 5000 miles. If you don't believe me, send a sample of your used oil to a lab such as this one:

http://www.oillab.com/

Also, our turbos are WATER COOLED, and the motor has an OIL COOLER. There's virtually no chance of oil coking in the turbo or oil breaking down from high temps.
I really don't mean to sound critical, and don't take it personally, but it amazes me how people send alot of money on a car and then try to cheap with it. Yes sythentic lasts longer, but the question is not could you let it go longer, but should you. I've changed my oil passed 3k, and even syth gets too dark for my taste. Plus, yes the oil will last longer, but what about the filter? Yes our turbos are water cooled and oil lubed, but if you think it oil won't coke, try driving it really hard, park, shut it off and open the hood. The heat coming from the turbo is incredible. No water cooling accuring if the car is off. The oil will sit there and cook, even syth. This is just like the regular gas it the GT's issue. People please, stop being cheap! Use premium gas in the GT and Stage 1's, and change your oil and filter every 3K regardless of the filter or if you run dino or syth. Hey if you don't want you engines and turbos to last that's on you. As for me, my car note is huge and I pay a good amount of car insurance, put I only put in the good stuff. Premium gas, Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters, period!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 27 Feb 2005, 02:33 am
eliminator eliminator is offline
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I disagree. The color of the oil has nothing to do with whether or not it needs to be changed. For example, in heavy diesel engines the oil looks like TAR almost immediately after it's changed, and then the oil is used for 25,000 miles or more. On the other hand, a lot of newer cars have clear, clean looking oil at 5000 miles, but an oil change may be past due. The oil's appearance means nothing. The things to be concerned about are: 1) moisture accumulation, caused by short trips and not letting the motor warm up. This will turn the oil to sludge in short order. Generally not a problem if you get on the highway for a few miles once in a while. 2) Overheating of the oil, which will cause it to break down. This isn't an issue for our cars because of the oil cooler. 3) Loss of additive package (detergents, mostly). This is normal for any oil and will occur over time, regardless of what oil and filter you use. It's kind of like when you wash dishes - you need to change the water once in a while because the soap gets "used up".

DCX recommends 5000 miles between oil changes (with standard oil), and they are being very CONSERVATIVE because they have to warranty the motor. Volkswagon and others also recommend 5000 mile intervals for their turbo motors. 5000 is not unusual. They wouldn't recommend doing something that would damage the motor. 5000 is very SAFE for normal use.

Oil companies and mechanics LOVE to preach about 3000 mile oil changes, so they can make more money.

I'm going to send a sample of my 5000 mile oil to a lab in a few weeks, and I'll let you all know what I find out.
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