best oil filter

[SuGamer]

quote:Originally posted by eliminator

I disagree. The color of the oil has nothing to do with whether or not it needs to be changed. For example, in heavy diesel engines the oil looks like TAR almost immediately after it's changed, and then the oil is used for 25,000 miles or more. On the other hand, a lot of newer cars have clear, clean looking oil at 5000 miles, but an oil change may be past due. The oil's appearance means nothing. The things to be concerned about are: 1) moisture accumulation, caused by short trips and not letting the motor warm up. This will turn the oil to sludge in short order. Generally not a problem if you get on the highway for a few miles once in a while. 2) Overheating of the oil, which will cause it to break down. This isn't an issue for our cars because of the oil cooler. 3) Loss of additive package (detergents, mostly). This is normal for any oil and will occur over time, regardless of what oil and filter you use. It's kind of like when you wash dishes - you need to change the water once in a while because the soap gets "used up".

DCX recommends 5000 miles between oil changes (with standard oil), and they are being very CONSERVATIVE because they have to warranty the motor. Volkswagon and others also recommend 5000 mile intervals for their turbo motors. 5000 is not unusual. They wouldn't recommend doing something that would damage the motor. 5000 is very SAFE for normal use.

Oil companies and mechanics LOVE to preach about 3000 mile oil changes, so they can make more money.

I'm going to send a sample of my 5000 mile oil to a lab in a few weeks, and I'll let you all know what I find out.

I agree with alot of what you say, and you are right on many points, but as for DC recommending the change every 5k, not according the schedule B in my owners manual. And even so, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Syntheic and a good filter (not the crappy generic Mopar oil filter) can only protect you so far. [:0]

[mich_132003]

quote:Originally posted by sawdust123

I've got an issue with an intermittent oil light. Several times a week (maybe one in ten starts), the light won't go out. I just have to shut the engine off briefly and restart it for the problem to go away. This has happened with new and old filters.

I was told there are two possible causes for this. First is a bad oil sender. Second, a poor oil filter.

The story I was given (by a dealer) is that a bad oil filter may drain when the engine is off. When the engine starts, air gets trapped in it and causes the sender to detect a problem. Quickly shutting the engine off allows the air to escape and then the filter functions normally. Hmmm, it has an air of plausibility but it also could be a ploy to get me to come to the dealership for changes. What do you think?

I'm having the same problem with my oil light which started at 28k miles and not being a mechanic, I assumed an electrical problem. Guess the response from SteelBlue proves me right.

Regarding oil filters - I've been using CHEAP FRAM filters for 25 years. Never had a problem and I've had many high mileage cars. I've also been using syn oil for many years and attribute long engine life to: frequent oil & filter changes and synthetic oil, (4k to 5k miles with syn oil), not expensive oil filters.

[crazyjoe]

quote:Originally posted by SuGamer
I agree with alot of what you say, and you are right on many points, but as for DC recommending the change every 5k, not according the schedule B in my owners manual. And even so, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Syntheic and a good filter (not the crappy generic Mopar oil filter) can only protect you so far. [:0]

You mean the Schedule B which is for SEVERE usage? I hardly think the way most people drive their GTs is SEVERE usage.

Do you have any FACTS to back up your assertion that you should just dump money into your car above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends? I drove several Chrysler turbo cars on dino oil and FRAM oil filters well into the 200,000 mile range without replacing anything but normal maintenance parts (timing belt, brakes, etc).

Telling people to spend money needlessly on their car simply because they spent a lot up front is just plain silly. It's like trying to get people to buy those worthless $100 set of MONSTER cables for thier stereo system. $8 of speaker wire will work just fine, spending the extra $92 dollars just makes you look foolish.

You want to buy quality oil and filters, I applaud you. But telling people to change it every 3,000 miles when the manufacturer recommends 5,000 miles with inferior products? ....

[CHROMEDCRUISER]

Crazyjoe, chill out man, it's all about personal preference. If someone is used to changing their oil at 3K miles, that's their choice. I personally change oil and filter at 3K. I believe like the other guys that the key is changing the oil at the right interval, be it 3K or 5K. As for monster cables, THEY DO make a difference, better cable, better insulation, better connectors, the average joe may not notice a big difference if any, but people looking for the highest quality sound will notice.

[SuGamer]

quote:Originally posted by crazyjoe

You mean the Schedule B which is for SEVERE usage? I hardly think the way most people drive their GTs is SEVERE usage.

Do you have any FACTS to back up your assertion that you should just dump money into your car above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends? I drove several Chrysler turbo cars on dino oil and FRAM oil filters well into the 200,000 mile range without replacing anything but normal maintenance parts (timing belt, brakes, etc).

Telling people to spend money needlessly on their car simply because they spent a lot up front is just plain silly. It's like trying to get people to buy those worthless $100 set of MONSTER cables for thier stereo system. $8 of speaker wire will work just fine, spending the extra $92 dollars just makes you look foolish.

You want to buy quality oil and filters, I applaud you. But telling people to change it every 3,000 miles when the manufacturer recommends 5,000 miles with inferior products? ....

From the owners manual (This is what DC considers severe driving):

Schedule "B":
Follow this schedule if you usually operate your vehicle under one or more of the following conditions. Change the brake fluid if the vehicle is usually operated under the conditions marked with an *.

Day or night temperatures are below 32F. Yup, especially this winter.

Stop and go driving. Of course, I live in a traffic filled city.

Entensive engine idling. Ocassionally, when I leave someone in the car with the heat or air on until I come back.

Driving in dusty conditions. Nope.

Short trips of less than 10 miles. Actually 3/4 of all my driving.

More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90F. Done that quite a few times.

Trailer towing.* Nope.

Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial service). Nope

So of course I follow schedule B, whether I have synthetic or not and use what I feel is the best filter. The difference in the price is not because of the name, but because of the quality of it. I think Fram is more well known among the average person than K&N. And K&N oil filters are harder to find. The only autostore chain that sells it around me is Autozone, and they are not close. I can bet that most of the GT owners on this forum operate their GT's under one of more conditions on DC's schedule B list. These are the facts straight from DC itself. Oh and by the way, $8 speaker wire is crap and oxidizes alot faster. While I would not buy the $100 Monster Cable, it definately is ten times better than the $8 junk.

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by SuGamer

I prefer the K&N oil filter. It's extremely heavy duty, and it has a 1" "nut" to put it on and take it off with ease. Plus it can be "wired down" for racing. The structure of the filter is so hard you could kill someone with it! [] It's double the price of the usual oil filter, but you get what you pay for! [:X]

Agree. The best.[|)]

[SuGamer]

quote:Originally posted by quicksilverdon

Agree. The best.[|)]

Thanks Don, at least someone else out there agrees with me and is willing to spend alittle more for a better filter. I don't know what the apprehension about spending an extra $8 every 3 months is all about!

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by SuGamer

Thanks Don, at least someone else out there agrees with me and is willing to spend alittle more for a better filter. I don't know what the apprehension about spending an extra $8 every 3 months is all about!

Actually, by shopping around, I got a case of 12 K&N for N/A engine for $96 shipping included - that's $8 a filter! Worth every penny.[?]

[SuGamer]

quote:Originally posted by quicksilverdon

Actually, by shopping around, I got a case of 12 K&N for N/A engine for $96 shipping included - that's $8 a filter! Worth every penny.[?]

You da man Don, you da man!

[ddearth]

I get "WIX" filters which are highly rated, from Filter1.com for about $3 ea, also get transmission, air, etc from them for everything I own. Can't beat their price. All the research I've done puts WIX right up there with most top of the line brands.