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Brakes, stalling, gas mileage, maintenance

 
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Old 05 May 2005, 03:51 pm
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Default Brakes, stalling, gas mileage, maintenance

I have an ’03 GT with 27,000 miles on it. I drive very passively and only got the GT because of the pick up it has and I got a very good deal on it. I refuse to go to the dealer because of 2 bad experiences I had there: I paid cash for the thing and it still took 6-8 hrs for me to drive it from the lot, for the first normal maintenance it took a week to get the car back (no kidding, 5 working days and nothing was even wrong with it).

On to the questions:
First, since I drive so conservatively, I change the oil at the recommended 5,000 miles and I use standard oil. Is that okay?

Second, I just had my car inspected and the brakes checked out in flying colors, he asked if I even use them. The serviceman thinks my brakes should last until at least 40k to 50k. Does that seem off?

Third, despite my very easy driving style, I barely get 24 mpg on the expressway and only get 19-22 on country roads (hardly city as I rarely have stops/idles and normally coast through turns thus not engaging brakes), is that normal?

Fourth, a problem has come up since the past winter. When I first turn my car on after a long shutdown (morning, after work, after dinner, whatever) and I put it in gear (autostick) around 33% of the time it stalls. This happens sometimes after I lightly engage the gas pedal, or before I do so, in D or reverse. If I think to rev the engine lightly before hand, it does not stall. Last oil change (25k miles), I replaced the spark plugs and wires and I of course ran the fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas here?

I am very technically inclined but a complete novice at anything under the hood (and darn this engine does not look like the ole ’84 Jeep J10 where I could identify parts!)

Thanks in advance.
Eric
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Old 05 May 2005, 04:40 pm
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1. yes, it will be 'okay'. Most fans will use synthetic and change often. Turbos have coked up and failed at 60-90k in the past with conventional oil.
2. PT's seem to be hard on brakes. Many have reported 15-20k repairs. You seem to be VERY easy on yours.
3. Due to the weight and profile of PTs, the milage is another common complaint. Yours isn't out of line.
4. The PCM controls the idle, so this is something that shouldn't happen. You didn't mention temps, but I'd guess 30-50. If you allow the engine to stabilize before shifting and this still happens, check for TSBs and PCM updates. Is there another dealer within reasonable distance?
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Old 05 May 2005, 05:07 pm
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1) okay, are their any benifits to synthetic, as I said I do not drive ummm spirited.

2) Interesting, good to know

3) Okay, I must say though that I am very displeased with it and the manufacturer's posted MPG (what, were they measuring it while driving off a cliff?)

4) Yes, there is another dealer within driving range and will consult them on the issue. Temps, yes between 30-50 F. As I said, if I rev the engine to say 2k rpm and then let it idle and shift it does not act up, I do not warm up the engine though just 1-2 seconds on the pedal then go.
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Old 05 May 2005, 06:48 pm
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1. I agree with Purple. Re: synthetic - It's a better oil for less engine wear and better mileage.
2. Agree w/Purple.
3. Agree w/Purple. Disagree w/you. Your getting better mileage than most of us. (18.50 MPG for me.) Try more air pressure in tires for better MPG.
4. Agree w/purple. Your GT shouldn't stall. Have dealer check it out.
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Old 05 May 2005, 08:06 pm
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2step, thanks. [^]
emr131, There have been a number of articles recently about the problems with EPA vs. real world fuel mileage, especially on hybrids. The EPA tests are run in a building on rollers, with drive cycles that are not realistic in traffic, and the top speed is 59.5 MPH (mostly under 55). No provisions for the guy on his cell phone cutting you off, the acceleration around the guy pulling into a driveway, or any other real world pedal 'blips'. BTW, if you rarely or never use the turbo, the engine is less efficient than a NA, due to lower compression. Not much, but a bit.

If you figure 27k miles @ 24MPG, that's 1125 gallons. 27MPG equals 1000 gallons. The difference of 125 gallons @ $2.50=$312.50. Divide $312.50 by 27,000 miles and the savings would be slightly more than a penny a mile. While I don't toss a penny out the window every mile, it isn't that much in the grand scheme of things. If you got the car in '03 that's $156 a year. $3 a week. Just over a gallon a week, or less than a pack of cigs or a combo meal. Shopping for insurance would cover it, if the ads can be believed!
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Old 06 May 2005, 08:43 am
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While I agree with your numbers, where does it stop? Should I be satisfied with 20 mpg? 18? The truth is that my car is not anywhere near their estimates, I wish manufactures lowballed them so we would actually feel better about the same results.

About inefficiency due to not using the turbo: Is there anyway to have it engage at lower RPMs? Are there any statistics out there for what is the best fuel efficiency at what RPM's in the GT?

Okay, next oil change I will change to synthetic. Should I start going every 3k miles as well?
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Old 06 May 2005, 11:36 am
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The MPG numbers on the window stickers are established by the feds and are to be taken as a general estimate and not a "real world" target mileage. The numbers are best for comparing one model to another as to where each sits in the pecking order. The GT Turbo numbers seem to fall in the lower range of the spread for all cars with the same rating. Somebody has to be last place in every comparison and we must be in the running for that designation.

Then to really confuse things, you have to factor in different driving conditions (cold starts, altitude, hills, speed), different driving styles, gas quality, tires and alignment, etc.

All I can do is repeat that you're not alone. We all have MPG results below the rating and as gas prices climb upward, we all feel the pinch. Most of us who opted for the Turbo did so for the performance factor which is there in gobs so that takes the edge off any mileage disapointments. We are happy that we can beat the other guys away from the stoplight and our MPG is better than the V8 equipped car that we beat. So for a "high performance car", our milage ain't so bad.[8)]
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Old 06 May 2005, 02:00 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by emr131

1) okay, are their any benifits to synthetic, as I said I do not drive ummm spirited.
From my personal experience, I cannot recommend strongly enough the benefit of using synth in a turbo car. I know that I have told this story many times so everyone else can stop reading HERE.

When I first started driving turbo cars about 20 years ago I was uneducated about them. I ran dino oil and went through my first turbocharger in about 40,000 miles. The problem was that when you turn the engine off, even if you let the car idle some first, the bearings are very hot. The dino oil will "coke" on the bearings. It forms a gravel-like material on the bearing. The next time you start up, until it is flushed away by the oil pressure, it wears on the bearings. After replacing that first turbo, I drove that car over 180,000 miles with the second turbo. I have had similar success wiht subsequent turbo cars.

IMHO, it is very cheap insurance to run synth in a turbo.

Okay, everyone else can start reading again HERE.
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Old 06 May 2005, 05:18 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by emr131


On to the questions:
First, since I drive so conservatively, I change the oil at the recommended 5,000 miles and I use standard oil. Is that okay?
Despite the panic you will hear in general about turbocharged cars, know this: Most of the cars with failed turbos had a number of contributing factors that were involved.

First, and most common, is that the turbos were purely oil-cooled, and did not use a combination of oil cooling AND water cooling. All of Chrysler's turbos are both oil and water cooled, and offer much greater protection against "coking" of the oil.

Second was the driving conditions. People who would drive the vehicle in wide-open-throttle (or at least high boost) situations, and then shut the car down, leaving the turbo bearings with an inadequate time to cool down (and thus burning the now uncirculated oil). For instance, kids who zoom through their subdivisions and then park the car, or someone who lives off of a main road.

Anyhow, the point of all this is, if you're doing a good deal of highway driving and changing your oil at 5,000 mile intervals, normal oil is going to be just fine for you. I drove two Chrysler turbo cars well over 100,000 miles, and one of them over 200,000 miles (and then sold them both in running condition) without a turbo failure. Using regular oil.

If you're still reading (heh) and you're concerned, the next time you change your oil, save some of it and send it out for testing. I am not sure of the pricing, but if you factor the cost overage of synthetic vs regular, you should have it made up in a couple of oil changes (7 bucks on oil vs 25 bucks adds up quick).



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Old 09 May 2005, 11:53 am
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Well she is going in Thursday (earliest they got (this is the other dealer, place I bought it from could only get me in next week)). Luckily, my sis is out of town for the month so I will get to use her beater[:0] for the rest of the week.
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