Dead battery at 33K miles

[sawdust123]

Yesterday afternoon I drove about 50 miles w/no problem, stopped the car for about an hour and when I got back in the car I had no electrical power. I got a jump and drove about two miles without problem and stopped the car for about two more hours. I tried to get a jump again and was able to get the car started but the car wouldn't continue to run. As soon as the cables came off, the voltage fluctuated like crazy (too high and too low, not just too low). It stalled as soon as I took my foot off the gas. I got towed to a dealer and I am waiting for the diagnosis.

I am guessing the cause is one of the following:
- Bad ground connection in the charging system
- Bad regulator
- Bad alternator

Anyone have other similar experiences?

[2step]

I'm going with a bad battery.

That's the most common problem.

[sawdust123]

The battery was certainly dead. The question is what caused it. A battery shouldn't go bad within 24 months unless another problem exists. Typically this is a charging system related problem or an excessive load (like leaving the lights on).

I have ruled out the load problem because I had just drove 50 miles. That should have been plenty of time to recharge the battery enough to survive a 60 minute rest.

Another symptom was intermittent power to the interior lights. This signified and problem with a connection. The battery terminals were clean so I am thinking it is elsewhere such as a ground or something next to the fuse box.

[SteelBlueGT]

My Battery 2003 PT GT sold new in Oct of 02 is not exactly old and it is creating a ton of corrosion on the positive terminal making me think it is new battery time. Was trying to go 3 years on the battery but I am looking for a good replacement now.

[2step]

My last vehicle (Dodge Ram pick-up) had to have 3 batteries in 3 years. My knowledgeable, trusted mechanic told me that the lead straps connecting the cells are being made thinner than ever and that they are prone to fail.

If you think it's something different, go ahead and check it out. Pay a shop to tow your car and diagnose your electrical system or take your battery to a auto parts store and have them check it for free. I'm just trying to help you out.

90% of the time it's the most simple answer that fixes the problem.

[sawdust123]

I used to buy Sears' best battery for my old cars. No matter how much they claimed the new model would last, it always lasted exactly half that time. Of course, since they pro-rate it, I would keep going back. One time that was inconvenient. My battery died near Costco. I bought a Kirkland battery instead. It was less than the new Sears battery with the pro-rated discount. The best part was that it lasted longer than anything I every purchased with the Diehard name on it.

What gets me is that I think there are only 3 or so large battery manufacturers in the country; Johnson Controls, Interstate and the other one escapes me. Most brands are just private labels made by the big boys or by Asian importers.

[quicksilverdon]

Let us know the outcome.
A big enemy of batteries is vibration cracking inter-cell connections, but I doubt the problem was your battery - something drained it or it isn't getting charged. The battery in my '02 was still fine at 87,000 miles and nearly 3 1/2 years.

[Mike Radowski]

Batteries are not an auto manufacturer strong point, they do NOT purchase top of the line batteries. You got two years?? good for you. You may want to check with your dealer, but rememeber, batteries, like brake linings and clutches are consumables and may not be covered under the warranty.

Mike

[SteelBlueGT]

My Daughters Mitsubishi Outlander has been bullet proff for lthe first 30,000 miles but she had battery problems until the dealership bit the bullet and replaced hers and that was about 6 mo ago and no new troubles. I am having a very difficult time in buying a new battery for my Cruiser. None of the major outlest make a group 26R in a premium battery just their ecconomy models. Not sure why but it may be because of its diminutive size. Any one have an ideas have checked Walmart, Sears, Pep boys, and Optima.

[sawdust123]

The car is fixed. I pick it up tomorrow. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong but the battery. Perhaps one of those straps did break. Or, they did find something wrong and figure I won't notice it before the warranty expires in 3000 miles.

I'll test the charging system and engine-off battery drain when I pick it up. Normally a car shouldn't draw more than about 75mA when the engine is off and the lights are off. Does anyone know what the typical draw is for the PT with everything off?

Oh yeah, does the PT radio have any stupid anti-theft device that requires a code to be typed in after the power is interrupted? I wouldn't know what my code is.

Overall I'm really displeased with my experience at this dealer. I can't believe how long it took them to get a new battery (2-days). They said they ran out of them. Normally dealers have runners that go between the dealerships to trade parts. I guess this dealer was too cheap to send someone out on a warranty repair. I'm also pissed because I could never reach anyone on the phone and no one calls you unless you leave a message first. They have no shuttle service either and they are the largest Mopar dealer in the county. It's the last time I go back there. The smaller dealers give much better service.