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The Next 48...

 
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09 Sep 2016, 01:30 am
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Default Re: The Next 48...

Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroPT View Post
HMM...? well there is that hidden wording again.

I guess I don't have to worry about part of it?

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09 Sep 2016, 08:40 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
On one of my PT Cruisers it would run great until it went up a hill under a load. I found out the spark plug wires were bad. After replacing the spark plug wires it ran great up the hills. Have you checked the spark plug wires?
Hmmm. I just swapped them around to make sure they all sparked, but I never threw the meter on them. I couldn't find it at the time. I did that when chasing my misfire and they were all "okay".

I had always planned to buy new ones. AFAIK these are the originals - have to check with my dad. I figured I didn't want to drop any money on wires when I didn't know if the car had a serious problem.

I tend to think it is the mounts and not the wires. The car will pull great, it just starts shaking.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09 Sep 2016, 10:01 am
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by Fk5 View Post
Hmmm. I just swapped them around to make sure they all sparked, but I never threw the meter on them. I couldn't find it at the time. I did that when chasing my misfire and they were all "okay".

I had always planned to buy new ones. AFAIK these are the originals - have to check with my dad. I figured I didn't want to drop any money on wires when I didn't know if the car had a serious problem.

I tend to think it is the mounts and not the wires. The car will pull great, it just starts shaking.
When my upper and lower strut mounts went bad on my PT Cruisers it was very notifiable when it shifts from one gear to another making a clunking sound. Its not very often the center mount or the transmission mount goes bad so if your spark plug wires are original or has been on the PT Cruiser for a long time I would consider replacing them as maintenance just like with the spark plugs and oil change. I find that with spark plug wires they don't last as long when you physically take them off and back on every time you replace the spark plugs or doing a diagnosis. Also if the spark plugs were not installed properly you could have a cracked spark plug.
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Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 09 Sep 2016 at 10:11 am.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09 Sep 2016, 01:10 pm
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by Fk5 View Post
That chair has no arms!!!!
exactly!

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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09 Sep 2016, 04:53 pm
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by Fk5 View Post
Not sure why I liked that. I mean, I appreciate the advice, but I hope it's not the axle. I have read that is a potential cause, but I am leaning towards mounts. The shake is related to load. I can get all over it on level ground, 10 lbs of boost and no shake. Go up a hill and even at quarter throttle it may get violent.
I hope it's not an axle! But just throwing out another idea on something to check out...
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12 Sep 2016, 09:00 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

Drove it back and forth to NY again this weekend. Up to 152,650 miles. The belt screech is enough that my wife is embarrassed to ride in it. Poor baby. If she didn't make me drive back and forth so much I would have fixed it ages ago.

My Dad thinks the plug wires and motor mounts (torque struts, whatever) are original to the car. I will probably order some and change them out this weekend, when I try to knock out that alternator belt and an oil change. I am going to try not to deal with the rear motor mount until it is time to tackle the timing belt again. I will see what I decide to do with the trans mount.

If none of those get rid of the shaking under load I will take a closer look at the axles and intermediate shaft. If you throw the car in neutral it will roll smooth as glass. Even if you let off the gas and coast at high speed it is pretty damn smooth. I would have thought that the axles are still turning and an imbalance would still show.

I have not been too scientific in testing comparative to rpm and/or speed. I can try that as well. My drive to work is 45mph and under and I do not recall ever having any shaking on the dozens of times I have driven that trip. I am not sure if that is because the load is lower, or the lower rpm and/or speed.

I also have to order a set of booger bushings. The under hood bushings are basically gone and there are times it has been hard to get into third.

Plenty of work to do!

One actual question:
The CEL is not on. The ultra-gauge shows no codes, active or stored. However, the key dance shows a P0517 (battery temperature sensor circuit high). How does that even happen?

The car seems to run fine once warmed up, but is a little sketchy when cold. Sometimes you have to give it a bit of gas when you let the clutch out or it might buck. I figured it might be a coolant temperature sensor. I planned to check that and clean the IAC.

I guess I can go through the wiring again or replace the battery temp sensor, but I don't know what difference it even makes. Does it have anything to do with the fan running? Both the fan and battery were taking a bath when the last radiator was going out.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12 Sep 2016, 10:29 am
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Default Re: The Next 48...

If you go to replace the alternator that would be a good time to replace the dogbone motor mount (lower strut) if it is bad. You should be able to see if the upper and lower struts are bad by looking at the rubber for cracks when you get underneath the PT Cruiser with a flashlight. If the lower strut mount is replaced it is recommended that the upper strut is replaced at the same time.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12 Sep 2016, 10:57 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
If you go to replace the alternator that would be a good time to replace the dogbone motor mount (lower strut) if it is bad. You should be able to see if the upper and lower struts are bad by looking at the rubber for cracks when you get underneath the PT Cruiser with a flashlight. If the lower strut mount is replaced it is recommended that the upper strut is replaced at the same time.
The lower looks bad. Haven't bothered to look at the upper, but considering the price I figured I'd do both. Not sure if I'll bother filling them. Everybody used to do that with 2.2 mounts, and Rob filled his before his PT checked out.

I'm not changing my alternator, just the belt. Unfortunately, it seems like the job is pretty similar except for physically snaking the alternator out of there.
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Old 28 Sep 2016, 11:07 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

Got the oil changed yesterday. I actually took it to a shop because they had a special and the drain plug was rounded from whoever did the last one. May have been me.

Drove it out and the car was running fine. It runs absolutely perfect under 45 mph. It has a what sounds like a very minor intermittent miss at idle and it sounds king of sputter. Not sure how to describe it, it revs up fine. Over 45-50 it will get an occasional shake under load which I assume is motor mounts, but may be an axle shaft. Does not do it coasting in neutral. Seems slightly harder to start and will sometimes buck when cold. Neither of those issues seem major, it always starts first try, just sometimes a tiny bit more cranking and it won't buck if I actually shift it properly. I tend to short shift, and that doesn't work quite as well.

Pulling up to the house after a 20 minute ride the check engine light popped on. Checked the code and it is P0340. Camshaft sensor. Seems plenty of people had bucking issues with that code, so maybe that will be the fix. I will check the wiring tonight and see about picking up a Mopar sensor.

FWIW, I feel like it seems to be burning a lot of gas. The needle seems to drop way faster, but when I check the mpg it is still good. Last three tanks were 27-21-25 mpg. I think the difference is mainly due to how fast it clicked without topping it off. It isn't a surprise it would be a bit low because of how much time I spend working on it idling, but it is strange.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 29 Sep 2016, 09:07 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

I have been driving it to work. Today the CEL went out. Presumably the P0340 is still stored. Car is running fine. I figure that I will just get a new CPS and throw it on, but this should give me time to shop for the best price/order online.

The alternator squeal was actually gone even at start-up, but it is pouring here, so it came back a couple of times. QUESTION: My alternator belt has squealed off and on for over a year. When I start the car it squeals horribly and then once I rev her up to 2500 rpm it will go away. If it rains or the belt gets wet it will squeal and chirp for several trips until completely dried out. My understanding is that these belts will squeal once they have gotten antifreeze on them. Mine has. OTOH, I am not sure if it is the bearing in the alternator. Any cheap/easy ways to tell the difference?
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