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The Next 48...

 
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 09 Jun 2017, 12:18 pm
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by Fk5 View Post
.....went off on its own. My plan of ignoring things until they go away is progressing nicely.
I'm good at this too. Usually it'll be someone bringing me a car to tell them what's wrong. The cars panic in fear and ackrite.

Instilling fear into cars is also a skill of mine. For example, I had a prelude that didn't want to shift into third (auto), out of anger i floored it, smiling towards the 7800rpm rev limit. Fearing what what was about to occur, the car quickly realized who was boss and shifted beautifully after that.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 28 Jun 2017, 01:56 pm
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Drove it again this weekend. Took it back up to NY on Friday. Had to prep it on Thursday. It is due an oil change, so I washed and waxed it again. Car ran fine, but decided to scare me.

Air temps were pretty high and I was driving about 85. Car was running 204-206 instead of the usual 203. A few times I heard a mystery ding, like when the low fuel light comes on. Unfortunately, it was the oil light. it did it several times, generally only when hitting idle after a long fast run. As far as I can tell, the light didn't stay on, but would ding when the idle dropped. Sometimes this made it even scarier since you would get 2-3 dings. I started running it a bit slower and it seemed to improve. I left it in NY and took my daughter's 200 back. Now I will have to detail that thing. Maybe change the oil, or maybe I'll just wax it.

Potential causes, as far as I can tell:
  • Idle too low. Seemed to only happen after long runs when first hitting idle. I don't think it happened with an idle over 780, but I didn't get the digitial rpm on the ultragauge until it had happened a few time. Cedrtainly never close to 1,000. Solution: clean IAC.
  • Blown up oil filter or crappy oil. I had a non-synth oil change done at a cheapy place. I assume they used a shit filter. Only happened in heat, but I assume I want good oil and filter. Solution: change oil and filter. I have the filter and Mobil 1 5W30 in the car - but I needed a drain pan. Will do it when I am back in NY weekend of July 7. Do I want to use thicker oil? I think that is just a crutch, but if I need crutches, so be it...
  • Oil sender. Seems like these leak and cause the light to come on. I doubt this is the issue because it coincides with when the oil pressure should be at the lowest. Solution: Clean oil and dirt from wires, replace sender.
  • Worn bearings, loose tolerances. Solution: Ignore the dinging and drive it until it grenades.

Will I ever try any of these solutions? Will I just continue to drive and ignore all symptoms? Stay tuned. In the meantime, it did finally turn over 158,000 miles.

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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05 Jul 2017, 12:18 pm
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

With the PT abandoned on the streets of Shao Lin, I took the opportunity to hit Crazy Ray's for the 40% sale. Fun 4th mingling with the meth heads. I needed a few things for the 200 - the Chrysler wings on the horn broke and she told me she needed a new prindle. If you don't know what a prindle is, she explained that it is the trim around the shifter - ParkReverseNeutralDrive (prindle). She had to educate me on that one. I also grabbed her an air intake hose and the little rubber bumpers that hold the gas door at body level. There were 4 200s her era in the yard every one with a big front hit and airbags deployed.

While I was there I snagged a rear sway bar, Gen2 rear spoiler (it is red, but I don't think it is inferno red- going to need a color match anyway) seat base with drawer for the driver's side. I also got a center cap for my buddy's Caravan and a bunch of other stuff. Out the door for $46. The seat base I took was from a 2001, supposedly it has extra trim - I will have to check it out. I didn't take the 2001 glove box trim because all the 2001 I saw were taupe, while mine is slate. The car I took the seat from was taupe up top with slate seats and seat trim. Did any of the 2001's come in all slate?

None of this stuff will fix any of my problems, but it should at least keep me motivated enough to change the oil and filter before driving it back down to the DMV.
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Last edited by Fk5; 30 Jul 2017 at 06:38 pm.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 30 Jul 2017, 06:37 pm
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Okay, so I lied. Just drove the thing back down from NY last Saturday night. Drove it to work all week. Yesterday I finally changed the oil, some 270 miles after I said I would. I put in Mobil 1 5w30 and an old Fram 3600 filter I had in the hatch. It was way bigger than the teeny Pennzoil I took off, but I think the stock one was that small.

In the never ending story that is my car, while i was wiggling out from under it I heard a crash. I figured that the drain plug just slid down into the center of the drain pan. When i buttoned it up, I realized that there was what appeared to be another drain plug in the pan. Put the right one in and figured that the other, which appeared to be a stud with a nut on it was one of the missing parts from my thermostat housing. Well, took a better look and nope. It is a bolt rusted on a stud which snapped clean. It is way bigger than the thermostat bolts. Can't find out what it is, don't see where it came from and nothing appears to be leaking <fingers crossed>

I also couldn't get the front wheel off which I was going to do to in order to check my torque struts and fix the alternator belt which is squeaking up a storm and probably ruining the bearing on my alternator. Three of the lugs have lost their little covers and are perfect 18mm. 2 aren't and are 19mm, but one of those seem stripped. I don't have anything in between to pound on, so I am not sure of my next step, but I will probably just try another socket from my NY house next weekend.

Tried to adjust my loose parking brake, but the inspection port is dead at the bottom of the brake and the suspension (axle?) blocks most of it. I figure it will be easier to wait until I get my drum brake stuff, which is also in NY. One of those little spoons should make it way easier.

Test fit the rear sway bar that I nabbed at the pick and pull. Seems okay, I will probably grab a couple of speed nuts instead of dealing with sanding down bolts or wrenches. Anybody know what size I need? I have to see where to buy them. Home Depot has them for a couple of bucks. They look kind of cheap, but that seems par for the course. Autozone has them for $33? WTF?
I don't get it. Are there 100 in the pack?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 30 Jul 2017, 08:38 pm
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by Fk5 View Post
Okay, so I lied. Just drove the thing back down from NY last Saturday night. Drove it to work all week. Yesterday I finally changed the oil, some 270 miles after I said I would. I put in Mobil 1 5w30 and an old Fram 3600 filter I had in the hatch. It was way bigger than the teeny Pennzoil I took off, but I think the stock one was that small.

In the never ending story that is my car, while i was wiggling out from under it I heard a crash. I figured that the drain plug just slid down into the center of the drain pan. When i buttoned it up, I realized that there was what appeared to be another drain plug in the pan. Put the right one in and figured that the other, which appeared to be a stud with a nut on it was one of the missing parts from my thermostat housing. Well, took a better look and nope. It is a bolt rusted on a stud which snapped clean. It is way bigger than the thermostat bolts. Can't find out what it is, don't see where it came from and nothing appears to be leaking <fingers crossed>

I also couldn't get the front wheel off which I was going to do to in order to check my torque struts and fix the alternator belt which is squeaking up a storm and probably ruining the bearing on my alternator. Three of the lugs have lost their little covers and are perfect 18mm. 2 aren't and are 19mm, but one of those seem stripped. I don't have anything in between to pound on, so I am not sure of my next step, but I will probably just try another socket from my NY house next weekend.

Tried to adjust my loose parking brake, but the inspection port is dead at the bottom of the brake and the suspension (axle?) blocks most of it. I figure it will be easier to wait until I get my drum brake stuff, which is also in NY. One of those little spoons should make it way easier.

Test fit the rear sway bar that I nabbed at the pick and pull. Seems okay, I will probably grab a couple of speed nuts instead of dealing with sanding down bolts or wrenches. Anybody know what size I need? I have to see where to buy them. Home Depot has them for a couple of bucks. They look kind of cheap, but that seems par for the course. Autozone has them for $33? WTF?
I don't get it. Are there 100 in the pack?

That bolt/stud could be why your alternator is squealing.
I have about 10 extra wheel studs because these things break off pretty damn easy. I've only broken 2, but 3 were already broken when I bought car.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 31 Jul 2017, 07:52 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by LionPT View Post
That bolt/stud could be why your alternator is squealing.
I have about 10 extra wheel studs because these things break off pretty damn easy. I've only broken 2, but 3 were already broken when I bought car.
That's a good point, but I don't think it is the case. The bolt fell out of the center of the car, not towards the passenger side. I am hoping that it is one of those weird set ups that hold the intercooler pipes to the radiator and the a/c condenser. I had to monkey with them when I did the radiator. Strange thing with this car is that some parts are a rusty mass and others are like new. Must be the different metals and coatings they use. The squeaky belt has been a problem for years. It was doing it before the timing belt at 100k. They supposedly changed the belt, but it was squeaking again shortly thereafter. A friend told me that when the belts get coolant on them they squeak and the only way to stop it is to change belts. I had a radiator leak, so it makes sense.

I had a mechanic change the turbo coolant hose in the back and asked him to check the belt. Then when the radiator job was done as a throw in with some bodywork, they fixed it again (or maybe vice versa can't remember the order right now) What that means at this point is people have probably just been cranking it tighter and tighter. I have the belt, but that wheel has been a never ending source of horror. Then again, I guess all the tightening may make it likely that the bolt/stud was relating to the alternator.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2017, 09:40 am
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Originally Posted by myckee View Post
Sounds like it could be an issue with the IAC.
Agree - A problem, a slight problem with the old Saab - having to clean and oil the idle air control every 50,000 miles ..
Does the PT have a similar design , with electrical and air controls ? Right now, the Saab no longer runs , much less idle and the Honda idles NOT perfectly, but the Cruiser idles, runs perfectly .
Having to maintain two different vehicles at my age .... in this heat !
A man must know why a car runs perfectly into order to maintain it properly ..
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2017, 09:44 am
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by Fk5 View Post
That's a good point, but I don't think it is the case. The bolt fell out of the center of the car, not towards the passenger side. I am hoping that it is one of those weird set ups that hold the intercooler pipes to the radiator and the a/c condenser. I had to monkey with them when I did the radiator. Strange thing with this car is that some parts are a rusty mass and others are like new. Must be the different metals and coatings they use. The squeaky belt has been a problem for years. It was doing it before the timing belt at 100k. They supposedly changed the belt, but it was squeaking again shortly thereafter. A friend told me that when the belts get coolant on them they squeak and the only way to stop it is to change belts. I had a radiator leak, so it makes sense.

I had a mechanic change the turbo coolant hose in the back and asked him to check the belt. Then when the radiator job was done as a throw in with some bodywork, they fixed it again (or maybe vice versa can't remember the order right now) What that means at this point is people have probably just been cranking it tighter and tighter. I have the belt, but that wheel has been a never ending source of horror. Then again, I guess all the tightening may make it likely that the bolt/stud was relating to the alternator.
IMO, the coolant on the belt will tend to quiet it .. BUT , this is not good for the cooling system .. and the engine ..
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2017, 10:17 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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Default Re: The Next 48...

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Originally Posted by earthworm View Post
Agree - A problem, a slight problem with the old Saab - having to clean and oil the idle air control every 50,000 miles ..
Does the PT have a similar design , with electrical and air controls ? Right now, the Saab no longer runs , much less idle and the Honda idles NOT perfectly, but the Cruiser idles, runs perfectly .
Having to maintain two different vehicles at my age .... in this heat !
A man must know why a car runs perfectly into order to maintain it properly ..
People clean them, but not that often. My idle fluctuation was an old problem that cured itself. May have related to a vacuum issue. It also may be happening again because the idle seems drop a bit too low when letting off the gas after bombing in the 80s. It isn't very high on my list, but I will give it a shot because - free, or close to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthworm View Post
IMO, the coolant on the belt will tend to quiet it .. BUT , this is not good for the cooling system .. and the engine ..
Well, I have had 3 radiators and several hoses changed during the course of this belt squeak, so the cooling system and the engine should be okay...<fingers crossed>
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 01 Aug 2017, 10:22 am
Fk5 Fk5 is offline
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I forgot the other fix that applied. I replaced the "make-up air hose" This is the hose from driver's valve cover to the air filter housing. On an NA this is where the PCV valve would be. I couldn't see myself paying what they ask for the molded part, but when I was in the yard there was an NA car with a near new hose, so I pulled it. The bend is a bit off and it needed trimming, but it's on and the car seems to run a little better, I think it may have been a slight vacuum leak, but it is close to imperceptible.

Opinion question: before I throw the rear sway bar on, I want to paint it. What color would you go for an inferno red PT? Most of my cars are black, so I would go red, but the bright red they use for suspensions doesn't match inferno red. I may just go black, but figured I'd solicit opinions. @handycruisers yellow looks much better than I expected.
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