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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10 Oct 2017, 10:07 am
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

Here's the before and after of the exhaust manifold porting. Credit to Nitro on the idea.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10 Oct 2017, 09:36 pm
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

Guess I need to back up a lol bit for people that haven't seen my other thread. After checking compression and doing a leakdown test. Fuel pressure was 58psi. I went to local dyno for some baseline pulls. Only mods during these pulls were k&n typhoon intake and BOV plate. The plugs were shot. #1 gap was .050, 2 .078, 3 .088, 4 .053. It was runnin 100% 91 octane. Also found out during tear afterwards. Both upper and lower intake gaskets were leaking and exhaust to head gasket as well. The brake booster vacuum line was cracked and leaking also. The vacuum line to TIP was also unplugged. It ran 210.7 hp and 234.6ftlbs to the wheels. As you can see in the graph it dropped sharply after 5000rpm and started breaking up. No doubt the wore out plugs.pt dyno.jpg
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12 Oct 2017, 02:45 am
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

Didn't want to go too big on porting the exhaust manifold. It could get pretty thin on the one side so I marked were the outer edge of casting was and just radiused it up. Its overall slightly smaller than the O2 housing opening so heat won't be beating directly on the exposed lip of the O2 housing pipe or the gasket ring.The MPx O2 housing matched up nicely to the manifold and the downpipe. There is a triangular bracket that bolts to the bottom of the block and the boss on the O2 housing. That bracket had to be spaced out from the block about 1/4" on the left side. Looking at the back of the block. Ised a few washers. Also had to slot out the hole where it bolts to O2 housing slightly. I didnt want the bracket to be putting unwanted stress the pipe.
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Last edited by zztunnell; 13 Oct 2017 at 09:48 am.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12 Oct 2017, 09:20 am
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

Here's where I was porting the intake. The TB side was quite small. So I took it out to the edge of the gasket and then blended and smoothed it back as far I could reach. The ports between the upper and lower intake were pretty much spot on with the intake. I just smoothed away all the casting, flash and bumps. I opened up the lower intake a lil at the head. Gasket matching it there could've gotten tricky. It wouldn't have left much material and I also didn't want to get too much into the injector bosses. I did smooth out around them and unshrouded them a bit. Wasn't much since in goin farther til I get a head to port match it to. Sadly I was in a hurry to get everything done before the race and forgot to take pics of port job on the runners. I'll take some next time the intake comes off.

This is before final sanding. received_1696033747108366.jpg
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 12 Oct 2017, 11:39 am
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

neat. here's one i butchered for my ford.

i used a 2" flap wheel for final sanding and found it AMAZINGLY effortless to power through the final sanding phase. see attached for final result.

what did you use? i'm always curious how other people do stuff
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Old 12 Oct 2017, 08:20 pm
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob302 View Post
neat. here's one i butchered for my ford.

i used a 2" flap wheel for final sanding and found it AMAZINGLY effortless to power through the final sanding phase. see attached for final result.


what did you use? i'm always curious how other people do stuff
I used a Standard Abrasives porting and polishing kit.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12 Oct 2017, 08:33 pm
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Default Re: Seabiscuit

I used the Needswings 3" Catless downpipe with electric cutout. Fits right up. No issues. Cutout comes with a 3/8" block off plate. The bolts are welded to the flange. So all you have to do is take off the wing nuts. The nuts that came with the cutout are shanked so they fit nicely in the recess of the cutout flange and postively locate the flange. The flange and frame is a machinced piece with a stainless flapper. Very well constructed. The cutout doesnt come with instructions. But the wiring harness is assembled and ready to install. The connector at the cutout is left off but the pins are terminated. So you don't have to feed the connector thru the firewall just the 2 wires. Route it to cutout then just click the pins in the connector. Then mount your switch. You may have to extend the wires to reach fuse box. Just a power and a ground and it's done. Works quickly and quietly with no leaks.20170925_115619-1024x576.jpg
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