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Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 30 Dec 2017, 05:57 am
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Location: Kansas
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Default Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

New guy here, I just signed up after spending the last 3 days and nights reading various posts trying to find an answer for my problem. I have an 07 PT Cruiser Touring with around 76k miles. Tuesday when I was leaving to go to work it wouldn't start. It was about 10F that evening so I didn't think too much about it. Got a jump, and stopped at the part store on the way to work for new battery terminals, since I noticed the ones I had barely qualified anymore. I changed them out on a smoke break later that night. After work I stopped at the drive through for a burger and when I left my window wouldn't go back up. I read through some posts trying to get some ideas of things I could try to fix it and Wednesday disconnected the battery cables, to rest the tipm. That didn't work but I figured it was because I didn't leave it unhooked lung enough. I saw suggestions everywhere from 5 minutes to over night, and I only left the negative cable off for about 30 minutes and then I had to work again. Thursday was another reading day looking for ideas and hoping it wasn't the tipm going out.

Tonight I was messing with it again and discovered that the switches in that unit for the rear windows and the passenger front window, and the 2 on the back of the console, all work fine, until I try to work the driver's window. Then they all stop working for a bit.. Also recently I noticed the little light in the switch for the front driver's side window has stopped lighting up, I don't know if it's related or not, but I noticed it so I mentioned it.

At this point my main concern is getting the window closed again because we're forecast to have -15 to -25 temps for the next few days, and I don't want to drive wearinga blanket! Lol

So can anybody explain how I would go about simply connecting a wire from the battery directly to the motor to run it up? That should be possible, just a matter of which side to touch the wire to, right? I have the door panel off, and the insulation pulled back so i can see the motor, but not the wire connections, plus it's already in the single digits and my fingers were going numb and I didn't have the patience to try it tonight. Please help before my wife sees how much I've taken apart and takes my tools away!

Beyond that, I will eventually want to actually fix the problem. Do any of you have an idea where to start from the symptoms I described? Is it the TIPM, the switch, or the motor, or something in between? Is there anything else I can do to get more information?

I don't have any electrical testing tools, voltmeter continuity tester and so forth, but I have access to them if I need them.

Also I want to say I'm not a fan of the TIPM.
Thank you in advance from a frustrated Mikecicle!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 30 Dec 2017, 09:29 am
rob302's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Darien, IL | Forest Park, IL
Posts: 3,519
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

There's only two wires to the motor. Connect one way to go up, connect in reverse to go down.

Gotta find the wires! Sounds like you're 99% there
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 30 Dec 2017, 10:51 am
JDK52's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 113
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Our 2006 suffered from failure of the wires where they connect to the window motor.
That area was the point of structural fatigue causing intermittent operating until ultimately failing -

You will need remove the door trim panel to gain access to the motor and it's wiring if you want to persue this consideration.

Having a volt/ohm meter is helpful.

We were able to disassemble the motor and attach functional wiring to restore operation.
Having enough wire length and stabilizing the end points from the stress of flexing is good practice if this is your problem.

Good luck.

Last edited by JDK52; 31 Dec 2017 at 09:15 am. Reason: Spelling
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 30 Dec 2017, 01:13 pm
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,332
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by Razzle346 View Post
New guy here, I just signed up after spending the last 3 days and nights reading various posts trying to find an answer for my problem. I have an 07 PT Cruiser Touring with around 76k miles. Tuesday when I was leaving to go to work it wouldn't start. It was about 10F that evening so I didn't think too much about it. Got a jump, and stopped at the part store on the way to work for new battery terminals, since I noticed the ones I had barely qualified anymore. I changed them out on a smoke break later that night. After work I stopped at the drive through for a burger and when I left my window wouldn't go back up. I read through some posts trying to get some ideas of things I could try to fix it and Wednesday disconnected the battery cables, to rest the tipm. That didn't work but I figured it was because I didn't leave it unhooked lung enough. I saw suggestions everywhere from 5 minutes to over night, and I only left the negative cable off for about 30 minutes and then I had to work again. Thursday was another reading day looking for ideas and hoping it wasn't the tipm going out.

Tonight I was messing with it again and discovered that the switches in that unit for the rear windows and the passenger front window, and the 2 on the back of the console, all work fine, until I try to work the driver's window. Then they all stop working for a bit.. Also recently I noticed the little light in the switch for the front driver's side window has stopped lighting up, I don't know if it's related or not, but I noticed it so I mentioned it.

At this point my main concern is getting the window closed again because we're forecast to have -15 to -25 temps for the next few days, and I don't want to drive wearinga blanket! Lol

So can anybody explain how I would go about simply connecting a wire from the battery directly to the motor to run it up? That should be possible, just a matter of which side to touch the wire to, right? I have the door panel off, and the insulation pulled back so i can see the motor, but not the wire connections, plus it's already in the single digits and my fingers were going numb and I didn't have the patience to try it tonight. Please help before my wife sees how much I've taken apart and takes my tools away!

Beyond that, I will eventually want to actually fix the problem. Do any of you have an idea where to start from the symptoms I described? Is it the TIPM, the switch, or the motor, or something in between? Is there anything else I can do to get more information?

I don't have any electrical testing tools, voltmeter continuity tester and so forth, but I have access to them if I need them.

Also I want to say I'm not a fan of the TIPM.
Thank you in advance from a frustrated Mikecicle!
You will need to borrow a voltmeter to find out where you might have lost power to the driver's side causing your motor not to function.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 30 Dec 2017, 05:11 pm
VsandFords's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Gladewater, Texas
Posts: 1,908
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Welcome to the forum from East Texas. Please go to the new members section and tell us more about yourself and your Cruiser.

It might be an easy fix. Possibly the switch is bad in the main panel on the dash. Get another from a Cruiser in your local U-pull-it and swap them.


Of course, when the weather is better. Until then, find those wires and get that window up.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01 Jan 2018, 11:20 am
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 17
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Thanks for the help everybody!
I commandeered a friend's garage yesterday and got the window motor out. Hooked it straight to the battery and it spun like a champ, so I screwed it back on and connected it to the battery again. So the window is closed, door panel is back on, I did leave the connector for the window switch unconnected, and mid console is put back together. And I feel a whole lot better thinking it's the switch rather than the TIPM. Also in retrospect taking the motor completely out was an extra step and a waste of time.

Once I got to the wires inside the door I thought maybe I'd found part of the problem. As they come out of the plug, the insulation is cracked and flaking away leaving the wires exposed and possibly touching.

I know of a Cruiser in a salvage yard, but it's an 02. I know the design is different, but is there a way to take the housing off and switch the guts from that switch to mine? I can't figure out how to get the buttons off to get the innards out..
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01 Jan 2018, 11:52 am
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Location: Texas
Posts: 15,518
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by Razzle346 View Post
Thanks for the help everybody!
I commandeered a friend's garage yesterday and got the window motor out. Hooked it straight to the battery and it spun like a champ, so I screwed it back on and connected it to the battery again. So the window is closed, door panel is back on, I did leave the connector for the window switch unconnected, and mid console is put back together. And I feel a whole lot better thinking it's the switch rather than the TIPM. Also in retrospect taking the motor completely out was an extra step and a waste of time.

Once I got to the wires inside the door I thought maybe I'd found part of the problem. As they come out of the plug, the insulation is cracked and flaking away leaving the wires exposed and possibly touching.

I know of a Cruiser in a salvage yard, but it's an 02. I know the design is different, but is there a way to take the housing off and switch the guts from that switch to mine? I can't figure out how to get the buttons off to get the innards out..
Welcome to the forum

You indicated in your original post that the small green indicator light stopped working on the drivers window. This is not uncommon as I have had several of these go out, but the switch itself will still continue to operate the window just fine. So it may or may not be a problem with the main window switch module.

There are plenty of used switches available on Ebay, this is the cheapest that I could find:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-10-CHRYS...ZaJyA6&vxp=mtr

You could use the earlier or later model of Gen2, but the Gen1 won't work on the Gen2. The only thing they did to the later or most current switch is to shorten the length of the 4 toggles. I don't know why they felt that short toggles were better, I prefer the longer ones.

Before you put the door back together, I think that you should have plugged in the main switch module and try to operate the window that way.

I have a couple of extra switches where either 1 or both of the green indicator lights no longer work, but the switches themselves will still operate the windows. You can have one of them if you just pay the shipping charges + and additional $1 for me to run it to the post office. It may or may not fix your problem, but either way, you would only be out the postage for the item.

It would fit in a USPS Priority Mail (flat rate envelope) which is $6.95 + $1.00 = $7.95. Just send me a PM if you are interested in trying one of my switches.

When you get a chance, please go to Welcome New PT Cruiser Members - PT Cruiser Forum and create an intro thread
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01 Jan 2018, 12:31 pm
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 17
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by rckstein View Post
The only thing they did to the later or most current switch is to shorten the length of the 4 toggles. I don't know why they felt that short toggles were better, I prefer the longer ones.
Change for the sake of change I guess. "It's worked fine this way for 5 or 6 years, so let's make it different! People like change."

Quote:
Originally Posted by rckstein View Post
Before you put the door back together, I think that you should have plugged in the main switch module and try to operate the window that way.
I should have, but I wasn't thinking properly.. I was just happy the window was closed, and I had to get home to the wife for our first New Year's Eve together lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rckstein View Post
When you get a chance, please go to Welcome New PT Cruiser Members - PT Cruiser Forum and create an intro thread
I'll work on this when I get to work with a computer, it's not much fun on a phone.

Now I'm trying to find a jump so I can get to the store to get the battery tested and possibly replaced.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05 Jan 2018, 07:56 pm
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 17
Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Solved! it turns out it was the window motor switch after all. After almost a week with the window down, and getting jumpstarted every time I went anywhere because the battery picked the same subarctic temperature night to call, I got a new battery, and rolled the window up. The replacement switch arrived yesterday and since I hadn't screwed anything back down yet installing it was a breeze. Only a minor sinking feeling when I hit the switch the first time and nothing happened before I remembered the motor was disconnected still. After I took care of that, everything was sunshine and roses.

Thank you to everybody for your help, and a big thanks to rckstein for the switch!
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Old 05 Jan 2018, 11:45 pm
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Default Re: Yes, it's another stinking thread about the power windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by Razzle346 View Post
Solved! it turns out it was the window motor switch after all. After almost a week with the window down, and getting jumpstarted every time I went anywhere because the battery picked the same subarctic temperature night to call, I got a new battery, and rolled the window up. The replacement switch arrived yesterday and since I hadn't screwed anything back down yet installing it was a breeze. Only a minor sinking feeling when I hit the switch the first time and nothing happened before I remembered the motor was disconnected still. After I took care of that, everything was sunshine and roses.

Thank you to everybody for your help, and a big thanks to rckstein for the switch!
Thanks for coming back and reporting the fix as what you went through may help out someone else.

And you got the switch at a great price. But I would rather see someone get some use out the switch rather than have it lying around or throw it away.


Even though the little green indicator lights (only on the front window switches) no longer worked on either switch, all the switches fully functioned and it ended up solving your issue.

But in the future, if you ever really need the little green indicator lights, you can maybe pick up another switch somewhere else.
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