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Hello... any thoughts or suggestions on this would be much appreciated. So, last year about this time, I went out to start my 07 pt one pretty cold morning (mid 20's I'd say). After a little bit of a rough time starting, it did start up, but the check engine light came on. It ran fine after this. I took it to get the code, which was a cylinder 3 misfire. Here's the "curve ball" of sorts: at the same time, filling the car with gas became difficult, in that the gas pump would shut off every couple seconds - in other words, it took maybe close to 10 minutes to fill the tank. Solution? Took it in to be checked out, had a tune up done, replaced spark plugs, and not only did that get done, the check engine light of course went off, but the gas pump issue went away immediately after the work. Fast forward to a couple days ago: the same thing happened again. Cold temps, rough start, check engine light on, although so far intermittently, and the gas pumping issue is back. I assume I'll have to take it back for the same? or similar work? but wondering how the two things (misfire/spark plugs issue) could be related to the gas pumping issue. Any thoughts??
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What engine trouble codes are you getting?
When you fill up your gas tank do you top it off? Do you take the PT Cruiser to the same gas station or different gas stations?
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Imakenocents: I will definitely have the codes scanned again, it's such a eerie similar situation to last winter that I assumed (possibly incorrectly, I know) that it would show the same code as last time. I took it to both an advance and an oreillys last year and got the same info from both. I actually didn't know you could cycle the key and get codes, so i'll try that as well. Thanks for the help so far.....
ptcruisersteve: the car usually goes to the same gas station as there is one within walking distance of the house, a shell. I don't top off the car as I've read that that's not a good thing, although my wife does use the car occasionally and I honestly don't know if she does or doesn't. Again, I'll post codes once I get them. Here's a question though... I have read that that p0303 code may refer an evap system problem as well as a spark plug issue. Imakenocents mentioned that the gas pumping issue may be related to an evap system issue above (which I did read about last year). Is it possible that if the code is indeed the same as last year, and since the gas pump issue has returned, that the rough, cold start somehow caused some 'trip' of an error in that system, and if that's possible, why would it do such a thing? Needless to say, after we got the car back last year after the tune up, we were shocked that the gas pump issue had ceased. We were told by the mechanic that it was something he tried to address but couldn't find the issue to. He simply did the tune up, the check engine light was gone, and all of a sudden, the fuel pump issue was gone as well. |
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Here's a new development too...
The check engine light, after being mostly on (somewhat intermittent,but mostly on) for a few days, now has been off for a solid day - yesterday - reported by my wife, and I went out to see so on a couple of quick drives last night. But I also went to put some gas in it last night, as it seems to be going through some gas more quickly than usual, and had the same issue with the gas pump stopping over and over. Ugh. I think this just got harder to diagnose. Also, I'm guessing I can't "get codes" if there's no check engine light on? |
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Ok.. for some new on board..or old timers
The key acquisition is NOT a good source for finding engine trouble codes. In fact it is not even advised in the Factory Service Manual to use. Mainly because they are not user friendly if there are multiple engine trouble codes. If you own a vehicle manufactured from 1995 and newer and plan to be a DIY on it then you are advised to invest in a Diagnostic Scanning Tool. The better ones will have Readiness area viewing and resetting capabilities. But at least one that connects and read directly to the Diagnostic connector is preferable. DO NOT disconnect the battery to clear engine codes. While this method may work with some very old ECU in the early 1990's it is not effective with new ECU,TCM,PCM. etc., to clear the trouble codes and may hinder accurate information to diagnosis a computer monitored issue. When having anyone access the diagnostic connector to retrieve trouble codes the proper procedure is to note any and all engine codes, clear them and than test drive to check for any engine trouble codes that may reactivate and compare the notes. You may need to do this a couple times for better accuracy. The readiness area is also a good place to reset but many times will take several drive cycles to go into a state of Readiness for all emission testing. This area may be better used for advanced or experienced trouble shooters? Using the engine trouble codes can make the job of correcting a problem very quick if they are accessed and used as designed. I do not recommend the random replacing of any parts until you have effectively verified that they are failed. I recommend that if you suspect any electrical part as being faulty to first remove it clean it thoroughly as will the connector reinstall it and then follow the engine code check and retest procedure.
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