Subwoofers causing door and dash speaker distortion(?)

[Arne]

When you mentioned the cone flutter thing I immediately thought of the sub being reverse phased.
Just a simple thought.

[StoneBullet]

Arne--the subs are hooked up right. I have them ran in series so I couldn't have one of them running reverse polarity. But just to be sure I just checked and they're both throwing out.

[chris15]

Well, like I said, try the ground loop isolator.. and if that works, it'll be a temporary patch for the problem..

But not to nag or anything, what is your issue with hypergrounding? It's extremely, extremely inexpensive.. you can do it for about $20 and it requires very little mechanical skill.. and there are more than enough people on this forum that would be willing to guide you through the process, step by step.

[StoneBullet]

I have nothing against hypergrounding. In fact, I would love to try it. I'm sure it would make my system sound a hell of a lot better without the ground loop. I'm just afraid I might screw up my electrical system somehow. But I'll look around the forums and see if I can find some step-by-step instructions on how to do it and get it done (if it'll ever quit raining!)

And I figured out the speaker problem. It was the 3.5" I installed in the dash; they couldn't handle the midrange frequencies, even with the high passer filter on, at higher volumes. So I picked up a pack of Stinger bass blockers and BAM!!! no more fluttering! Now I'm going to try to change my P200 crossover to all pass and see if I can get a little midrange from the Alpines in the doors.

[StoneBullet]

Ok, so I did a little work on my system. I re-ran all my power, RCA, and speaker wires. That got rid of my ground loop. I got rid of the alpine door speakers and Boston dash speakers in favor of a set of Boston sl60 componets. I also got rid of the fosgate p200-2 I had pushing my fronts and got a kenwood excelon xxv-02a 4 channel amp and I'm going tonight to upgrade my rear speakers.

Now, the volt meter on the kenwood amp says I'm pulling 14.2-14.7 volts, which means I'm pushing around 1150 watts (give or take a few). Now my headlights and interior lights are dimming like crazy. I'm going to try hypergrounding before the car audio shop tries to sell me a $250 Stinger battery. I looked some stuff up, and from what I found I need to upgrade the following wires: negative from altenator to chasis, positive from alternator to battery and negative from battery to chassis. Is this correct? If so, should I go with 4 gage? Thank you all once again. And I'll post pics as soon as we clean up the wiring I messed up last night installing the new amp.

[StoneBullet]

Sorry, double post. Stupid iPhone.

[PtOnAir]

Originally Posted by StoneBullet

Ok, so I did a little work on my system. I re-ran all my power, RCA, and speaker wires. That got rid of my ground loop. I got rid of the alpine door speakers and Boston dash speakers in favor of a set of Boston sl60 componets. I also got rid of the fosgate p200-2 I had pushing my fronts and got a kenwood excelon xxv-02a 4 channel amp and I'm going tonight to upgrade my rear speakers.

Now, the volt meter on the kenwood amp says I'm pulling 14.2-14.7 volts, which means I'm pushing around 1150 watts (give or take a few). Now my headlights and interior lights are dimming like crazy. I'm going to try hypergrounding before the car audio shop tries to sell me a $250 Stinger battery. I looked some stuff up, and from what I found I need to upgrade the following wires: negative from altenator to chasis, positive from alternator to battery and negative from battery to chassis. Is this correct? If so, should I go with 4 gage? Thank you all once again. And I'll post pics as soon as we clean up the wiring I messed up last night installing the new amp.

If you are running a factory alt.(assuming it is factory) I find it very hard to believe that your head unit is giving you an accurate reading if it is holding 14+ volts especially with the stereo on.I would most def. try the big 3 like you have mentioned above.

1- Alt. + to battery +
2- Block - to battey -
3- Battery - to body -

4ga , should be fine .. I would suggest leaving all of the factory runs of wire an just adding the bigger wires .(sorry for digging up a older post.)