2005 Pt Cruiser Large Audio Setup

[PtDemon]

Hey everyone was really searching for ideas from you guys to modify my current shady looking setup...
Right now i have a 7" fold out dvd screen in the dash.
I have a 1200w (RMS) 4 channel Rockford fosgate Older Model amp That is Powering 2 sets of 6x9 Kicker coaxial speakers (I modified the speaker holes in the front doors so that 6x9" speakers would fit)
I have a MMATS d3500.05 1 Channel amp (~2700w rms) that powers 2x 15" power acoustik Mofo 15" subwoofers. (2500w rms)
I also have a yellow top optima battery and a 30 farad hybrid cap that is wired from the front battery to the second battery then to the cap. The wire is 0 guage and there is a 200a circuit breaker inbetween the 2 batteries.
Right now the new design that i have going is a 37.5"x19"x19" Box that will house these speakers with a Port of 4"x17.5"x12"(deep) Wich will tune the box to 38hz.
If I do this I would like to use a full plexiglass box wich will be 3/4" thick.
The issue i have from there is im running out of room to mount the Amplifiers the 2nd battery AND the cap... all in the rear hatch... I am open too ALL suggestions including box dimensions material ect... Right now the box i have is a wedge shape not a cube shape and inside the box is the 2nd battery and cap... the amps are mounted on the back side of the box itself...
If you have any suggestions please let me know
Thank You
PT Demon
If you want i can put up some pictures showing the current sub box and room issues...

[slayerdarkcross]

Pictures would be awesome!

Candyman has a pretty awesome setup in his PT

[Candyman]

Hey their PtDemon,

Welcome to the Forum. Well, here are a few ideas on layouts from my PT Photo Archive for ya. Just click on the Link.

PT AUDIO VIDEO SYSTEMS pictures by WestValleyCruisersPTCruiserArchives - Photobucket

Here is my ongoing work in progress. I'm still not done, but getting their little by little. Anyways, here is what I'm running at the moment.

A Clarion DXZ785USB Head Unit

Custom Clarion Equalizer which is mounted into a custom chassis directly under the Head Unit which was installed into a modified and fiberglassed center bezel , and then painted House of Kolor Candy Tangerine Pearl to match the exterior, finished with 8 coats of Clear., sanded, and polished to perfection.

Rockford Fosgate X162S 6-1/2" 2-way Component Speakers, and tweeters with Crossovers in the front doors, and dash.

Rockford Fosgate T1682S 6"x8" 2-way Component speakers, and tweeters with crossovers in the rear pillars

Two Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd 1500W Mono Amplifiers which are now driving the Subs

and a Boss 20 Farad Capacitor With Digital Voltage Display And Illumination and added 4 boxes of Extreme DynaMat insulation throughout!

All that to go along with the

Chromed Autotek SX-2300 350 W x 2 Amplifier with the Gold Plated Chrysler Logo built into the casing

Chromed Performance Teknique ICBM-774 1000 WATT 4-CH AMP

Which will both be upgraded to Rockford Fosgate shortly!

The two Fosgate, Performance Teknique amp, and Cap are all mounted under the custom subfloor, and the Autotek Amp with gold plated Chrysler logo, is mounted to my custom amp rack made from custom formed PVC pipe which was sanded, filled with body filler, prepped and painted House of Kolor Candy Tangerine Pearl to match the custom exterior paint work.

So we now have 4350 watts pushing 4 component speakers, 4 tweeters, and 2 10" 1500 watt Performance Teknique Comp Subs!





Anyways, hopefully that might give you a few ideas to kick around. Good luck, and whenever you get some pic's together, please post them so I can work on adding them into my archive.

Go easy, and I will catch you later.


Candyman

[Candyman]

Hey Slayer,

I thank you their my man! Ya beat me by my post. I got to get to typing faster. Cool new Sig too!

[PtDemon]

I like the setup looks very clean unlike mine for now ... Few questions here...
1. Custom sub floor.. ive seen this in 2-3 pt cruiser setups wich creates A HUGE amount of extra room in the small compact trunk. How feasable is this how much work needs to be done/ how hard is it to do...
2. My sub box needs to be ported and needs to be around 6 cubic feet... Wich is large compared to your sealed 10" enclosure. Your going for a great SQL daily driver system where is mine is a SPL daily driver...
3. Also for material wise was looking at either the obvious 3/4" MDF.. lame i was also looking at a 1" Full plexiglass enclosure as well... But a 3rd option is of course the fiberglass enclosure as well. How easy/hard is it to work with fiberglass considering ive never done it before. And cost wise compared to the acrylic and the MDF... Obviously MDF is cheap and easy to work with... Acrylic is al lthat much money i found a place to custom cut all the pieces including speaker holes and port slot for 1.5 x the MDF would cost... some compared to that how feasable is fiberglass..
Im at school right now but when i get home in about an hour or so i can put up some pics of the crappy state of how things are atm....
Thank You
PT Demon

[Candyman]

Hey PtDemon,

Thank you for the Props on my set up. I still have some more things I want to do, but for now just mostly more cosmetics. It still doesn't quite hit like I want, but I am maxed out for this box so I will need to redo everything to get more out od it so.

As for materials, like you already know, MFD is cheapest, and easiest to work with. Acrylic is cool looking esthetically and to me will give you a slightly more refined tighter sound over the MFD. Fiberglass is also very cool looking looks wise, but like with a lot of things in the custom world, it takes practice to get good at working with it. Also depending on how complicated you wanted to go with your layout, you need some decent wood working skills to make a more complex cabinet out of MFD, then stretch whatever material of your choice over the box, or if your going to paint it, get ready for mega sanding, sanding, and more sanding, and then some pretty serious money in prep and paint. To give you a ballpark, if I were just going to prep and shoot it with a standard base / clear, I you would be looking at around $300 - $400, and that's without going into all the filling, sanding, and prep to get a good surface to work with.

So, MFD = cheap, and easy but you are limited in making an elaborate cool looking set up, and some upholstery skills are helpful.

Acrylic is good but you need to really make sure you allow for ample support of your structure to support the weight of your subs, and allow for the vibrations or you could easily wind up with cracks in the material. On a good note, their is no need for upholstery. You can also use a combination of Acrylic and MFD to help support the structure, and still make it look cool. You can use acrylic for a face of your box, and then use some mirrors, and back light it for a really cool effect.

And Fiberglass is a ton of work, and most expensive, but if done right, has a way cool look, and most complexity to it.

As for a sub floor, its pretty easy to build. The big thing if your going to put amps either under your floor, or like me put a two tear set up so you can put multiple amps under, you just have to get your dimensions right for a nice clean look, and it is a good idea to router the edge so it bevels in to create a nice smooth transition from the interior trim to the floor. Then finish off with padding, and whatever your going to use to cover it with. I have my floor set up so I can still finish it off with acrylic windows and back light it when I get back to it again. Like I said, work in progress.

Amyways, I hope that somewhat answers your questions, and as always, if you have any more, please feel free to ask away anytime.

Go easy, and I'll catch ya later.

Candyman

[PtDemon]

Thank you very much for your reply i really did like using the acrylic idea just because who doesnt like look at moving parts and plus the affect with some simple led lights in an acrylic box is a very cool affect... Would u reccomend doing the MDF for the baseplate and sides and then just going with a Face plate made of acrylic or would a full acrylic box be able to withstand the rigors of an SPL setup? I did email some plexiglass suppliers getting price quotes and if they fealt a full acylic box would be able to withstand the pressures...Also with fiberglass yes my cousin madea full fiberglass box and he said it was a huge pain the ass and his box was extremely heavy as well but it housed 3 x 10" Kicker L7's but it doesnt look all that sharp... As far as the subfloor idk if you have pictures of you in the process of making it so i can get ideas as to how to do so or maybe somewhat explain how to do it?
Thank You Sir
Marshall

[PtDemon]

I lied i see what you did but for my application its extremely hard to do that just because of the sheer size of the box..

[PtDemon]

So i was tinkering around with the size of the box but the issue is that the rear hatch when closed only allows the depth of a box to be 16"... so then that changes the box size to 37.5x16x22 wich kinda sucks... also was thinkering with the idea of that left panel (when facing the hatch space from the outside) of cutting some of that out... To me that seems like such a waste space for "storage" was also thinking of doing that to the other side as well cause you can stick the spare changing tools somewhere else in the car but that would open up about 5.5" on that left side.. (my sub box is shifted a little bit to the right side so i cant tell how much on the right side) so if that goes the same for that other side that would be a total of 11 inches! wich if you add 10" to the length of the box i can take the 22" height and turn it into a height of 18" and still achieve a 6.3 cubic foot box.... wich then i could build a sizable sub floor for a batter cap and 2 amplifiers... what do you think of this idea?

[PtDemon]

A depth of 16 inches sucks bad.. maybe i can clip a little off the hatch to be able to fit that corner snug with the door ahhh im not used to all these cosmetic ideas My cousin and I doo all our work ourselves and hes usually the cosmetic guy and im the guy who wires everything together thinks of dimensions etc.. hence why his audio system looks better then mine haha What do you think of this?