Cheap alternative to dealer cut keys and key fobs?

[glibbis]

I recently purchased a 2002 Cruiser and is has the factory security system. The previous owner purchased it at a tow auction and didn't get any keys or key fobs with it. He paid a locksmith $90 to come out and make a new chipped key for the car.

I got the chipped key and a non-chipped key when I bought the car. The car started and drove home fine with the chipped key. I had to install a new/used engine due to the 220,000 mile original engine dying. Yesterday was the maiden voyage with the new engine and it was driving along fine but suddenly just died. It wouldn't restart. I had it towed home and have been trying to get it to restart ever since.

When I first turn the ignition to on, the security LED in the dash lights for about 3 second and then turns off. It never turns back on or flashes. I can crank and crank the engine but it will not fire the plugs. I have confirmed it is getting fuel. I strongly suspect it is not getting spark. I also strongly suspect it is not getting spark because the facorty security system it making it not get spark.

Is there any alternative to hauling the car to the dealer and paying them $500 for two new chipped keys and programmed key fobs? Is there any way to permanently disable the factory alarm system? I paid $500 for the car and about another $1000 in parts and the new engine.

Any help is appreciated.

Reed

[LionPT]

The key isn't the problem it's something else.

Since the car started & ran, you didn't mix up the cam sensor & coil plugs.

Check the ground wires next to the battery behind the air box.
Since it's a 2002, check the wiring harness above the passenger side front tire. The clip breaks & the harness will hit the axle, rubbing through the wires.

[glibbis]

Thanks. Since my last post I have verified I have good fuel pressure (62 PSI), unknown spark, but I do have 30 PSI compression in all cylinders. At this point I am looking into whether I have a timing gear that has slipped a tooth on the timing belt causing all cylinders to suddenly have identical low compression. The timing belt is still good and both cams rotate when I crank the engine, but compression is very low. I need to check for spark, as well.

However, that still won't solve my problem with no key fob and only one programmed key. I have ordered NOS chipped keys and fobs from a vendor on eBay. Is there any way I can get these programmed to my car without paying the dealer $100 per key and fob to program them?

[RickinPA]

You have to have two chip keys the car recognizes to add chipped keys yourself. Sorry.

[glibbis]

So do you think I can have the dealer program one key and then do any more myself? What about the fobs?

[rsrocket1]

Take your vehicle registration and your photo ID to a Chrysler Dealer. They will look up the key pattern code and the PIN for programming the fob (should be for free). The database is in their computer in Florida so they'll use their computer to look it up and get you a printout.

Call around and look for an honest locksmith who will cut the key using the pattern code from Chrysler and program the fobs to your car. I found a great guy about 10 miles away who has a mobile service and a B&M store he runs in the mornings. He cut 2 keys and programmed the 2 fobs for $50. A couple of years earlier he met me with his mobile service and cut 4 keys, erased the car of the old codes and programmed 3 fobs for $75.

[glibbis]

Thanks for the response. However, turns out the security system was not the issue. I dug moreinto the engine over the weekend and it turns out the no-start condition was caused by the exhaust cam locating pin shearing off the cam. Fortunately, I had a spare motor with a good exhaust cam. The car is running now, sort of. I will start a new thread about that.

In the meantime, I am waiting for the new key blanks and fobs to arrive. I will get the keys cut by a locksmith and take the fobs and cut keys in to the dealer to get them programmed.

[rsrocket1]

FYI You don't get the fob's programmed for the car, you get the car's security system to accept the keys. The key programmer plugs into the OBD2 port and matches the car's SKIM and PIN to the key while it's plugged into the ignition switch.

[Spaz]

Some dealerships won't program keys or fobs if you didn't buy from them. My local Chrysler dealer didn't so I went to a dealer about 20 miles away, this was in April '18.

I only had one key for my '01 PT Cruiser. At the dealer I bought a second Chrysler key ($63). Cost to program the key I had just bought from them, plus a fob I had bought off of eBay, was $45. I was there when they programmed the fob, they had some machine plugged into my OBD2 port as rsrocket1 says. With one working fob and one working key you can program a second fob yourself.

I bought some blanks from keyblanksales.com; two Ilco Y160-PT keys (look just like the Chrysler key / chipped) plus a non-chipped key for $31 after shipping. Had them cut for $2 each from my local hardware store, programmed the chipped keys myself. Now I have more keys than I need but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Ilco is a US company, I've never had a problem with an Ilco key.

If all you want is a second key and don't care about the ability to program more, you can get a cloned key from a hardware store, would be ~ $60. It'll work to start / drive the car but you can't program a third key with it.

For the sake of comparison, I bought a new chipped key with built in fob for my '14 Ford Focus last weekend. $140 + tax for the key, $53 for programming from the dealer (only had one key).

[Alfie1]

In the UK it's different again, we didn't get the panic button (gen1 anyway) so couldn't program any keys or fobs without the dealer kit.

I paid £30 to have a second key programmed by Timpsons who are nationwide and managed to persuade my only fob to work too.