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Stage 1 Installed but starts hard

 
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 18 Sep 2005, 02:19 pm
Mojito Mojito is offline
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I can confirm that with Stage 1 the car feels more difficult to start. It feels like quite often the engine starts a little later than with Stage 0. I swapped the Stage 1/0 pcms back and forth and can feel a difference. I guess, that's not what mervay experienced, but fits into the topic subject
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 18 Sep 2005, 04:24 pm
nehope nehope is offline
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I am nowhere near technically savy as you guys ... my stage 1 was installed on Wednesday and there is no discernible difference to me on how quickly it starts. As a matter of fact, it seems eager to go from the gitgo. We followed the directions, set the recommended gaps, etc. and she rumbles [8)]
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 18 Sep 2005, 08:40 pm
Topless in Cali Topless in Cali is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by mervay

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Topless in Cali

The plugs you got are NOT the ones Mopar is reccommending. They actually say "PLZ...", those are the premium lazer platinum plugs. I know, I know, everyones says plat plugs aren't good for our turbos, but they are wrong. ptcruise just had this dicussion and someone posted info on temp factors (the main reason plat plugs are poo-pooed) and they are well within the standars for our cars! I suggest iridiums. And your gap may not right be proper either.
Topless - When I called the Mopar tech line about the plugs, they said the stock nbr was 4306 which matched the pro - V plugs LZ. When I mentioned the PLZ platiniums he said that must have been a typo. @#@#@# who the heck is right? I talked with TThrift and he said to use the LZ's. Guess I'll live with what I have for now. Only starts hard on first start in the morning. The rest of the time its starts right up. Thanks people for all the advice. I appreciate it.
It may be just a typo, but it seems they haven't corrected it. Everyone who has ordered 05 S1 has the same instruction sheet with "PLZ..." reference. Nobody is using plat plugs as far as I know, I was just putting it out there that the temperature problems associated with them are not really as relevent as you might think. The melting point of plat is just above 2400 degrees and the GT engine burns right around 1760. Iridium is way up there at 4400 or so. So the iridiums are definitly the best way to go.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 20 Sep 2005, 03:23 pm
mervay mervay is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mojito

I can confirm that with Stage 1 the car feels more difficult to start. It feels like quite often the engine starts a little later than with Stage 0. I swapped the Stage 1/0 pcms back and forth and can feel a difference. I guess, that's not what mervay experienced, but fits into the topic subject
Thats just what I am getting. It takes 6,7 or eight revolutions before the cars starts. The rest of the time during the days it starts after 2. Stage 0 used to start after 1 or 2.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 20 Sep 2005, 03:27 pm
mervay mervay is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Topless in Cali

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by mervay

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Topless in Cali

The plugs you got are NOT the ones Mopar is reccommending. They actually say "PLZ...", those are the premium lazer platinum plugs. I know, I know, everyones says plat plugs aren't good for our turbos, but they are wrong. ptcruise just had this dicussion and someone posted info on temp factors (the main reason plat plugs are poo-pooed) and they are well within the standars for our cars! I suggest iridiums. And your gap may not right be proper either.
Topless - When I called the Mopar tech line about the plugs, they said the stock nbr was 4306 which matched the pro - V plugs LZ. When I mentioned the PLZ platiniums he said that must have been a typo. @#@#@# who the heck is right? I talked with TThrift and he said to use the LZ's. Guess I'll live with what I have for now. Only starts hard on first start in the morning. The rest of the time its starts right up. Thanks people for all the advice. I appreciate it.
It may be just a typo, but it seems they haven't corrected it. Everyone who has ordered 05 S1 has the same instruction sheet with "PLZ..." reference. Nobody is using plat plugs as far as I know, I was just putting it out there that the temperature problems associated with them are not really as relevent as you might think. The melting point of plat is just above 2400 degrees and the GT engine burns right around 1760. Iridium is way up there at 4400 or so. So the iridiums are definitly the best way to go.
Thanks Topless I appreciate your input. I think I may just go with the Iridiums. They are cheaper that the Plats. The plats I bought but didn't install were $11.46 each. The iridiums are $6.95 I think. They would be gapped at .033 right?
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 20 Sep 2005, 04:07 pm
wait4me6920 wait4me6920 is offline
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[quote]quote:Originally posted by Topless in Cali

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by mervay

Quote:
Originally posted by Topless in Cali

I suggest iridiums. And your gap may not right be proper either.
The melting point of plat is just above 2400 degrees and the GT engine burns right around 1760. Iridium is way up there at 4400 or so. So the iridiums are definitly the best way to go.
Are you running the Denso iridiums? I bought a set of the Denso ITV16 iridiums & they don't even come close to the same physical size/profile of either the original Champions or the NGK LZTR5A (much shorter, etc - mechanic said they wouldn't work...
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 20 Sep 2005, 05:11 pm
Topless in Cali Topless in Cali is offline
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wait4me- The Denso ITV series are shorter. That is one of the reasons they work better. The tip sits up higher in the cylinder head. They are designed to flow better and have hotter more effective spark/burn. They work GREAT and they do fit just fine. Don't listen to the mechanic, they just don't like using stuff that is not exactly like the original. You do need a set of high performance plug wires. The stock wire boots don't quite have the proper reach. The plug wires I got came with my plugs and were a genaric brand. You should get a better set of wires anyways with S1. Gap is .033 on the iridiums. Mervay- if you still have those plat plugs, I'd give them a try at the .035 gap and see how they feel. Like I said, there really is no problem using them with our turbo engine, I just perfer the iridiums
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 20 Sep 2005, 05:25 pm
wait4me6920 wait4me6920 is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Topless in Cali

wait4me- The Denso ITV series are shorter. That is one of the reasons they work better. The tip sits up higher in the cylinder head. They are designed to flow better and have hotter more effective spark/burn. They work GREAT and they do fit just fine. Don't listen to the mechanic, they just don't like using stuff that is not exactly like the original. You do need a set of high performance plug wires. The stock wire boots don't quite have the proper reach. The plug wires I got came with my plugs and were a genaric brand. You should get a better set of wires anyways with S1.
Umm, okay... I do have the Magnecore wires, so that shouldn't be an issue...

One other thing the guy mentioned was that the shoulder of the Denso plug is shorter & he can't get in there to completely tighten down the plugs... Did it take a special socket?

Appreciate ur input...


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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 21 Sep 2005, 03:26 am
SteelBlueGT SteelBlueGT is offline
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My understanding is that you need a special socket for those plugs although I never put them in so dont know for sure!!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 21 Sep 2005, 11:19 am
wait4me6920 wait4me6920 is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by SteelBlueGT

My understanding is that you need a special socket for those plugs although I never put them in so dont know for sure!!
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking...[:I]
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