plastic manifold & stage 1

[AlexJB]

Has anyone got the late model plastic manifold and stage 1 on their 03 GT?

Does the plastic manifold really help?

I was wondering as I'm planning to minimise spanner time by doing both stage 1 and the plastic manifold at the same time.

[Hoot23]

With an 03 (injector upgrade) absolutely do them both at once and since the intake will be off consider a DC oil modifier which is a nice little mod for only $20.00.

[Taggert_LOA]

absolutely. it gets rid of the lean condition in cylinder 1. less weight, iess heat soak, and 8hp bump with the intake. stage 1 is a good upgrade. nice hp jump and smoother transmission shifts. and remember if ya go stage 1 you'll need a boost guage.

[Mean Green]

Actually, you'll need a boost gauge if you go beyond stage 1 numbers by getting an adjustable wga or boost controller.

[AlexJB]

I have a boost gauge, it was fitted when I got the car, not sure why I need one though?

There is not that much set up required with stage 1 is there? (my car's a manual too)

[Mean Green]

Originally Posted by AlexJB

I have a boost gauge, it was fitted when I got the car, not sure why I need one though?

There is not that much set up required with stage 1 is there? (my car's a manual too)

You get larger injectors and a new pcm. You don't need to do a tranny learn.

[Cal Cruzer]

Originally Posted by AlexJB

There is not that much set up required with stage 1 is there? (my car's a manual too)

You have to remove the upper manifold and suction some of the coolant out of the radiator filler so you can remove the coolant hose to get to the fuel rail. Remove the fuel rail and replace the injectors, put it back. Install the PCM.

Depending on your skill level this may sound like a lot. It isn't really but if you are afraid of the task there is probably someone on one of the board that lives near you that would help you out.

It is a little more involved if you are doing the manifold at the same time but it would be the time to do it since you are in there anyhow. Change your plugs and wires while you are at it. Plugs will be harder once you have the composite manifold on.

[Taggert_LOA]

Originally Posted by Cal Cruzer

You have to remove the upper manifold and suction some of the coolant out of the radiator filler so you can remove the coolant hose to get to the fuel rail. Remove the fuel rail and replace the injectors, put it back. Install the PCM.

Depending on your skill level this may sound like a lot. It isn't really but if you are afraid of the task there is probably someone on one of the board that lives near you that would help you out.

It is a little more involved if you are doing the manifold at the same time but it would be the time to do it since you are in there anyhow. Change your plugs and wires while you are at it. Plugs will be harder once you have the composite manifold on.

Lest we forget to mention to pull the fuel pressure fuse out of the engine fuse box and then kick the motor over till it stalls. then remove the fuel injectors. you pull them out while under pressure, your likely to either blind yourself or get fuel all over your paint and damage your headlights with fuel spill.

[Cal Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Taggert_LOA

Lest we forget to mention to pull the fuel pressure fuse out of the engine fuse box and then kick the motor over till it stalls. then remove the fuel injectors. you pull them out while under pressure, your likely to either blind yourself or get fuel all over your paint and damage your headlights with fuel spill.

Nah, there is very little volumn in the fuel rail. As soon as you release the pressure via the small valve on the end of the rail you won't have any problems. Just hold a paper towel under it when you push the release, it will just be a small squirt at worst. Pressure may even be nill if the car has sat for a while. That is why you hear the fuel pump whir a little when you turn the key in the ignition. It looses some pressure over time.