Stage 1 Auto Performance

[Dr.Speed]

Installed a Stage1 kit and it knocked off .5 sec from the 1/4. 15.5 to a 15.01@ 90+mph. I made 5 runs with in .10 sec.
Swithed the tires and dropped another .3 to 14.72@93+mph.
I had no problems with the install and followed the Quick Learn for the trans and then WOT BABY !!!

[TripleJackInGA]

I am curious what elevation yor track is at that you made the runs.Also, what mods other than the stage 1 that you had before you installed it, as well as after (if any more were added). What kind of tires are you using for racing? What were your 60' times before the tire swap and after? How many miles are on your car?

Thanks!

[Dr.Speed]

[8)]I'm at 600 ft and the temp was 75F. The only other change to the car is a 2.5 inch Mopar Cat Back dual outlet system.
The race tires are M/T 8-22X15. American makes a rim that will clear the brakes, I'll get you the model # if you want. I have been playing with the pressure from 20 to 22 psi.
60ft times are not what I want and I think I can get a tenth or more off. The best was 2.13 but usually runs in the high teens low 20's.
The torque management in first gear hurts it and so does the 2500 to 2800 stall. The torque kicks in about 3500 from the dyno sheet and I can tell it running the car. The next step is a high stall converter, 32 to 3800rpm.
I think low 14's is not out of line with the right parts.

[Chipmunk]

I was really hoping to see a bigger difference than that. I run 14.7 at 94mph with a MBC set to 15psi. I am now having second thoughts about getting the stage 1. I think I will just save them money I was gonna spend on the Stage 1 and buy a '04 Electric Blue SRT-4 :-)


-=Matt=-

[romli]

quote:Chipmunky wrote:
I think I will just save them money I was gonna spend on the Stage 1 and buy a '04 Electric Blue SRT-4

But you'll need a Stage 1 kit for the SRT too

Don't forget that Stage 1 has more features than just higher boost. It's safer than MBC with bigger injectors, has snappy exhaust, boost holds over shifts, firmer shifts (with auto trans), and BOV cal optimized for the Mopar conversion.

But I'm sure DCX will be happy if you buy 2 of their turbos in the span of 2 years!!!

[COP TZER]

quote:Originally posted by romli

Don't forget that Stage 1 has more features than just higher boost. It's safer than MBC with bigger injectors, has snappy exhaust, boost holds over shifts, firmer shifts (with auto trans), and BOV cal optimized for the Mopar conversion.

But I'm sure DCX will be happy if you buy 2 of their turbos in the span of 2 years!!!

- Stage one has higher boost, But less than can be achieved with a MBC/EBC
- It IS safer, but it is overkill; b/c the car runs rich as it is, therefore an increase in boost would bring the car to ideal running conditions. By increasing both boost and fuel you are simply maintaining a similar air fuel ratio, and continuing to run rich and not have an optimized mixture.
-The snappy exhaust can be achieved with the addition of a high quality cat back system that is of a larger diameter than the stock one. The pop-pop occurs when a car is running rich and is igniting in the exhaust...there fore more "pop" means too much fuel and unoptimized air fuel mixture
-If you want boost to hold better over shift and to redline, do the Spring mod or buy a better wastegate actuator with stiffer spring retention
-i'm still confused as to how you can optimize a motor for a specific BOV by changing the software and injectors...if anything, i can see it optimized for ANY bov.

[ptcruzin42]

I'm sure it is optimized for ANY BOV, but as any smart marketing company would do they are not going to say "hey, go out and buy another BOV b/c it will work just as well" they're pushing their BOV.

[romli]

quote:COP TZER wrote:
higher boost... can be achieved with a MBC/EBC
snappy exhaust can be achieved with... a cat back system
If you want boost to hold over shift... buy a better wastegate actuator

Can you buy all of this for $399? Get it installed and fully dialed in in 2 hours?

quote:the car runs rich as it is, therefore an increase in boost would bring the car to ideal running conditions.

"Ideal running conditions" as defined by what? There are other things to consider beyond torque/power output. How 'bout exhaust valve & seat temps, turbine temps, exhaust manifold temps, exhaust catalyst temps, detonation, cylinder pressures, fuel octane/quality?

quote:The pop-pop occurs when a car is running rich and is igniting in the exhaust...there fore more "pop" means too much fuel and unoptimized air fuel mixture

Maybe they're just retarding spark??? Several SRT guys report getting better mileage with Stage 1 than stock! http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...&threadid=9020

quote:-i'm still confused as to how you can optimize a motor for a specific BOV by changing the software and injectors...if anything, i can see it optimized for ANY bov.

Most aftermarket BOV's are purely mechanical (spring/diaphragm device plumbed directly to manifold pressure). The stock valve is electronically actuated. This means the ECU decides when to open the valve and for how long. I'd guess they calibrated it to be very quick reacting (using throttle position???) and kept an eye on maintaining reasonable duration for each event. These types of electronic changes will have NO effect on a mechanical BOV unless it's integrated into the stock setup... like the Mopar conversion kit.

[Ian-PT-GT]

I spent $1,0000 for the APEX'i, K&N Filter, BTG Exhaust amongst other things. this does not include the money i spent for the Hallman tests, the pipes trying to make a CAI and all the hours I spent tuning it. I ran a best 14.01 At the track, but I had to detune the car for daily driving. Don't get me wrong, I am a Wrench head, I love working with engines and enjoyed avery single minute working with my PT.

With Stage 1, The car runs 15.1 at the track with the full intake box with a K&N panel filter, intake silencers and a BTG single exhaust, no detuning nessesary. with a new set of tires i should be back at the 14 sec world, because I made a 2.45 sec at the 60FT mark. I also got 162 MPG with a full tank, this was with three passes at the track. Better than my old 145 MPG with my old settup.

I also have the MOPAR BOV. It opens when ever the boost is at "Zero" or higher. If it is still at the vac side It won't open.

I still have my trusty Hallman MBC. I am going to install it, set it up for the track, and save it in the glove compartment only for when I am racing.

Just Two Cents.

Ian

[PK Cruiser]

Did the stage I take care of the "studder" at around 5000 rpm?