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Dyno testing was done at SP Engineering, when we're (Cal Cruzer, Kirby and myself) through with the install and our little write up report we'll post pics of the dyno sheets before and after and along with pics of the install itself. I have an autostick everything else modded on the car is in my sig except the S1 and the BOV which is going in this weekend.
1st run Max POWER=175.4 2nd run Max POWER=169.8 3rd run Max POWER=175.5 that's about an 18 to 21% drop in HP at the wheels. Will be going back on Monday after S1 and BOV are in and hope to see a major difference. |
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Will you be getting a smog check soon to see if the s1 and bov pass CA emissions?
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I's say the drop is normal, you're measuring HP at the wheels.
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Patriot Blue 5-Spd, Stage I, Mopar BOV, BTG Intake, Custom 3\" Turbo-Back, Spring Mod, BTG Shock Tower Brace, Vogtland Springs, Koni Shocks, Eibach Sway Bars, Azev Type M 18x8.5 wheels, Ventus K104 tires, Projector Bi-Xenon Lights, Rear spoiler, Autometer Gauges, Illuminated sill plates, K&N Oil Filter, Mopar subwoofer. Mexico City. See pics: http://www.sportcarsforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=715 |
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romli, flywheel (I guess that's where it's measured) HP is different than HP measured at the wheels. I'm not really a gearhead so I don't know if I'm explaining that correctly, I did the dyno test just for numbers prior to the install of stage 1.
gooberff, I plan to get it smogged.
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R_K_GT \'03 Electric Blue GT, silencers removed, K&N intake, Blanes Hood Struts, Emblems removed from rear hatch, Stage 1, Mopar BOV, Eibach springs, 18x8 Mille Miglia EV-R on 225/40/18 BFG g-Force T/A KDW 2, Eibach sway kit F&R, BTG Strut Bar, Chrome fuel door, custom 3\" cat-back exhaust with Magnaflow High-flow muffler, Blitz Dual Turbo Timer, Autometer Triple gauge pod, Autometer Ultra-lite with boost/vac, oil press and water temp gauges, Turbochargers.com wastegate, turboxs DSBC, Adams UCP, Dynoworks motor mounts with more to come..... |
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It is correct that flywheel and drive wheel hp will vary, You have to realize that turning drive train parts "steal" hp. Just a fact of life.
Tom |
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The lower HP rating "at the wheel" is due to what is called "parasitic loss" from driving the powertrain. Manufacturers used to put a bare engine (no accessories) in and engine dyno to come up with their readings. Now they put a fully accesorized engine on the engine dyno to get the readings they publish. This does not account for the loss through the drivetrain though. The Wheel Horsepower dynos will do this. An auto will absorb more HP than a stick mainly because the torque converter has to sling large amounts of fluid to get things moving.
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Thank you for explaining it better than I could THier and Cal. I think it was TripleJack that stated for an auto 18-20% is normal.
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R_K_GT \'03 Electric Blue GT, silencers removed, K&N intake, Blanes Hood Struts, Emblems removed from rear hatch, Stage 1, Mopar BOV, Eibach springs, 18x8 Mille Miglia EV-R on 225/40/18 BFG g-Force T/A KDW 2, Eibach sway kit F&R, BTG Strut Bar, Chrome fuel door, custom 3\" cat-back exhaust with Magnaflow High-flow muffler, Blitz Dual Turbo Timer, Autometer Triple gauge pod, Autometer Ultra-lite with boost/vac, oil press and water temp gauges, Turbochargers.com wastegate, turboxs DSBC, Adams UCP, Dynoworks motor mounts with more to come..... |
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Just to aquaint you with reality one of the speed channel tuning shows ran a Mustang GT V8 with custom exhaust and intake at 208 Rear Wheel HP.
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still seems alittle low. my wife's put down 187hp to the wheels. and that was on 89 gas. 93 would have been closer to 200hp. her car was stock.
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