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I put the Stage 1 in today...

 
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Old 11 Sep 2003, 06:58 pm
LAF LAF is offline
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Default I put the Stage 1 in today...

Was no big deal, no real issues. The worst is the auto learn. I was a little confused on it as the to 50mph and then come to a stop is fine, but the drive 40 and then 50% to WOT was a little fuzzy. Do you slow to a stop? How hard should you go I was at 90 or so on most of the 10 I did, did a few 40 to WOT and slowed to a stop. All in all other than my confusion it was about a 2hr job and about 30 miles of driving for the auto learn. I now can burn rubber in first gear, great new tires sooner LOL. I do see that the strut brace I ordered is VERY much needed!!!!! Torque steer is all but un-manageable under WOT. Was spookey at first, can manage it, but pray the brace shows up soon. If that dont do it, then I guess new struts and shocks, and lower the air presure in the front tires a bit. All in all a great improvement for 374.00. Had some fun doing it too! Did not use the new gasket as the old was fine (800 miles) and it is true there are only 3 screws holding the ECM (PCM?) on its mounting bracket not 4 as said on this list, or maybe the differance is date of manufacture. Anyway what I did today on my half day off. PepBoys has the G05 antifreeze so got a gallon of that and a gallon of distilled, 50/50 and used all but 1 gallon mixed. No problems with the radiator draining turn it counter clok and she runs. Well I am done for mods now, waiting on the strut brace and will live with what I have, at least till I change the oil at a 1000 miles...........
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Old 11 Sep 2003, 08:26 pm
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just got my S1 tody. Everything seems doable, but the only angst i have is depressurizing the fuel system. I read the section in the instructions. Is it necessary to do it this way? ie: remove the relay and run the car until it won't start?
Thx
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Old 11 Sep 2003, 08:46 pm
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You don't have to do it that way but you'll have lots of fuel spraying all over the place if you don't. The 2.4 turbo engine has higher fuel pressure ratings than most cars so the fuel will spray further and longer. It is quite easy to pull the fuel pump relay and turn it over... runs for like 2 seconds.

If you decided to just bypass the depressurization step, make sure you have a cool engine, no electrical components around to spark and have a fire extinguisher handy.
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Old 11 Sep 2003, 09:06 pm
LAF LAF is offline
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PTGTRedman,

I didnt do that. My car was cold as I road the bike the last two days. I also was almost on empty (seems I always am in this car)I opened the gas cap and that was it. When I pulled the fuel rail and did the disconnect, not much came out on the towel I had doubled just in case, however the fuel rail is full and you need to dump it. This worked for me, your milage may vary.
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Old 12 Sep 2003, 07:35 am
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Same here, I just left the car in the garage for 3 days and drove another to work. No spray at all when I disconnected the fuel lines...
Deen
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Old 13 Sep 2003, 05:14 pm
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It is really not that hard exept that you may have to clear error codes after you are done! All you do is pull the fuel pump relay from the Power Distribution Center. The cover of the PDC tells you were it is located. Start and run the engine till it stalls. Try and restart engine till it wont start anymore. Turn ignition key to off. Return relay to PDC and you are done.
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Old 14 Sep 2003, 12:48 am
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Installed the S1 tonight. Only had one problem.
The front thermostat bolt had a threaded shaft with a nut that had a metal pressure plate over it and then another nut. That was a pain to get off. Second i sheared the other thermostat housing bolt (frickin torque wrench was at only 100 in/lbs (should torque to 110). Got the bolt out but have to get a replacement before I can refill the coolant and pressurize the fuel system. Otherwise it was fun until I sheared the bolt. Then I felt like puking. You always know a fraction of a second after that you over turned the bolt
[xx(]
Oh and on mine, there were (4) bolts holding the PCM bracket, not 3.
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Old 14 Sep 2003, 01:35 am
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PTGT Redman, Sorry to hear the bolt snapped. So you havent even got to enjoy your work yet, really sorry. I also had a slight problem with that plate, second bolt thing, finally just bent it enough to get it off and rebent it going on, used some black touch up to clean it up. I thought it was said there were 4 screws holding the PCM TO the bracket, and there were 3 holding mine on, now there was at least 4 bolts holding bracket onto fire wall. Well hope you can get the stock bolt or just go to a Lowes, or Home Depot and get one, might even find a better grade.
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Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)

2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3 down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners

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Old 14 Sep 2003, 09:34 am
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Thanks LAF. WHen I broke the bolt, I thought I was gonna have a heart attack. Mad me crazier when I had to re-torque the Manifold bolts Could Imagine shearing those.
Figures, no matter how careful I am, I always do something like that. When I installed my Strut bar on my 01, with the torque wrench set, I still managed to shear a strut tower bolt.
What makes me more nervous is that I dropped a rachet head in the engine compartment on the right and it did not go all the way through (it was near the therm housing). I can't see it anywhere, and I HOPE it is not near any pulleys or the belts. the right side of the car has that shield on the bottom, so i can't see.
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Old 14 Sep 2003, 09:42 am
LAF LAF is offline
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PTGT Redman,
Look in that tray on the bottom, the bolt you snapped I dropped, could not find it any where, just kept working till I needed it, found it tight against the body in that black tray. These things are tight under the hood.

Are you using a ft/inch torque wrench? I think the manifold maxed mine out at 250 but I used it all the same.

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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge.
Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)

2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3 down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners

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