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Dyno numbers

 
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02 Apr 2004, 03:23 pm
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Very limited knowledge about cars in general so bare with me.Ant I am at 5500 when I hit the 17.5 Between 5500 & 6400 came down too about 16-16.5. Triple Jack that is correct Stage 1 injectors installed.From 2500 to 3500 high point was 14. From 3500 to 5000 was semi gradual climb to a little over 16? Seems to be a difference in ideas of what numbers are rich & what numbers are lean if you look through some of the prior posts. Can someone clarify? Thanks everyone.Paul
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02 Apr 2004, 04:18 pm
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With the increased need for fuel, you might want to consider a new fuel filter. An easy item to replace in the driveway if you do it yourself. It takes very little to reduce fuel flow in a filter if you get a tank of gas from dirty or fouled tanks.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02 Apr 2004, 04:41 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Kirby

With the increased need for fuel, you might want to consider a new fuel filter. An easy item to replace in the driveway if you do it yourself. It takes very little to reduce fuel flow in a filter if you get a tank of gas from dirty or fouled tanks.
Just a side-note that Kirby will love; I was in a meeting with a guy from Pierburg the other day (they supply European OEs with items like fuel pumps as well as sell them here in the US as aftermarket items) and I was clued in on what some OEs are planning to do in the not too distant future. They plan to make it where if you need to replace the fuel-pump, you not only have to drop the tank, but you can't remove it from the tank! Yep, you gotta buy yourself a whole new tank assembly, which will include the pump et all, and you'll end up leaving the dealership with a bill for over $1000 for a fuel pump!
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 02 Apr 2004, 06:05 pm
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How are you checking the air fuel ratio ?? A freind turbo pter has a autometer gauge and never reads right. He even got a o2 sensor from autometer and it still dosent work right. They say the are trying to figure it out but no luck yet. they need someone to come to there lab in Ill. and let them hook one up and figure it out.

Don
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 02 Apr 2004, 07:47 pm
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When you are on a dyno they use a wide band 02 sensor.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02 Apr 2004, 09:34 pm
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Just a side-note that Kirby will love;
Tripple,
Are you trying to paint me as an over reactive activist type person?
And you think that merely having to replacethe tank, fuel pump and package to replace the fuel filter could build a fire under me?

I think you could be right, but only in a car that I own.[8)]
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05 Apr 2004, 01:01 am
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I would first ask for your money back for the extra costs of the wide band O2 readings (if you paid extra for them)... Either the sensor is bad, or perhaps the operator forgot to insert the probe into the tailpipe properly...

Running wide open throttle, in a turbo car, with those air fuel ratios would result in horrendous detonation (which is the pre-ignition of fuel in the combustion chamber, usually due to extremely high combustion chamber tempetures... Turbo cars run rich specifically to keep the combustion tempetures cooler to prevent this from happening)... and it would be unlikely that the motor would have even held up enough to get you home...

If your Air Fuel ratio were this high all of the time, not only would notice a constant check engine light, for fuel system lean, but also a loud metallic knocking sound from the pre-ignition of the combustion mixture... And the computer would retard timing to the point where you certainly wouldn't put down 199 WHP...

Mopar's 2.4 Turbo engines run extremely rich both from the factory, and with their staged upgrades, specifically for reliability reasons... It's not uncommon for the Air/Fuel ratios to dip below 10:1 ...


If you haven't noticed any difference in driveability then I wouldn't worry about anything but getting your money back, or asking for another reading... Any dyno operator with sense would realize that this is extremely dangerous condition, and terminate the dyno immediately...

Just my 2 cents...

-Katie
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09 Apr 2004, 11:00 pm
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When I went to the dyno I asked for a A/F readout and the guy told me that he could only do it if I put a fitting right next to the cat (before or after I forgot).. He said thats the only true reading.. not to stick somethingin the tailpipe..
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09 Apr 2004, 11:49 pm
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 03baggedturbo

When I went to the dyno I asked for a A/F readout and the guy told me that he could only do it if I put a fitting right next to the cat (before or after I forgot).. He said thats the only true reading.. not to stick somethingin the tailpipe..
[|)]
Absolutely true! You definately need to get the reading before the CAT.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10 Apr 2004, 04:18 am
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You can still get a fairly accurate reading through the tailpipe. You would be able to get a good idea of where your AFR is.
I have my on board wideband hooked up in my downpipe before the cat. The dyno stuck it up my pipe

Readings showed 11.2:1 w/ my setup on runs vs. 12:1 dyno wideband.
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