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Common problem on boat trailers ,sockets have corroded, heat builds up from bad connection..Notice that the problem is on bulbs that are in continous operation...Clean or replace sockets and use dialectic grease in the bulb socket when replaceing bulbs...class over...no homework...shopwork-repair taillight.....
![]() ALWAYS Use a good quality Lite Bub-there is a reason some are cheaper,,,,
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This Black Thing Keeps Chasing Me ![]() YES ! That is a Ron Paul for President Sticker.. ![]() Growing OLD is Natural - Growing UP is Optional It's NEVER too late to have a Happy Childhood ![]() Ed Sidders , Lake-O The-Pines , Northeast Texas Last edited by edsidders; 03 Aug 2009 at 12:32 pm. |
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I have read this thread with interest since I've been having similar problems.
My 2004 PT is a basic model (Electric Blue, auto, A/C, CD player and NOT much more), purchased new, and I use it for my business. Approx. 2 years ago, I also began experiencing "shattered tail light bulbs" (running/brake) on the driver's side. At one point, I INDEED observed some water inside of the plastic lens assembly. Back in July, my wife was driving the Blue Beast <g> one night, and was cited by the cops for Yet Another driver's side tail light failure. Indeed, the bulb had shattered, but that time I found little/no evidence of moisture inside of the plastic assembly. I purchased two pairs of Sylvania 3157 lamps from Autozone, and decided to replace BOTH tail lamps, since the passenger side bulb was OEM....and keep the second pair of lamps as back-up inventory. Welllllll....this past Saturday evening, I about had a heart attack as the cops from a local township (known for "cops with too much time on their hands") hit their red lights and siren and pulled me over. This time, the RECENTLY REPLACED passenger tail light was out. Monday, I pulled out the passenger side assembly (I'm getting good with this...lol...Torx 30 driver) to replace the bulb. This time (as one or two other times), the lamp had not shattered, but did have a visible crack in the glass and the "innards" of the lamp had a dense gray coating. There was a trace of moisture inside of the lens assembly, but no "standing water" as I once experienced. I seriously suspect a failure between the two plastic sections of the tail light lens assembly, although nothing was apparent as I visually inspected it. The rubber o-rings around the lamp sockets also appear to be pliant, and seat well into the "holes" in the lens assembly. I am musing for a method to reseal the (possible) breach between the two sections of the lens assembly. I am also pondering a solution for the Big Hole that Chrysler left in the body...directly below the lens assembly....which can allow water to intrude into that chamber while driving during a heavy downpour...or a simple car wash. Fortunately, the "cops with time" township had an out....I had 48 hours to demonstrate I had corrected the problem by appearing at the "cop shop" with functioning tail lights, thus erasing a potential $99 fine. Somehow, I think this is an on-going PT problem, since I'm not the first one to report it..... Any suggestions are MOST appreciated! Bri |
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Welcome.
Try another pair of lights: parting out a 2005 pt cruiser 17k miles - PT Forums - The PT Cruiser Enthusiasts and Owners Resource
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'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler. Mods: E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar. Traded in '02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles |
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A little Update--I found some LED replacement tail light bulbs that I am trying in my boat trailer light housings , so far-so good
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This Black Thing Keeps Chasing Me ![]() YES ! That is a Ron Paul for President Sticker.. ![]() Growing OLD is Natural - Growing UP is Optional It's NEVER too late to have a Happy Childhood ![]() Ed Sidders , Lake-O The-Pines , Northeast Texas |
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there were some issues early on with some apc brand of taillights that chrysler used for a short time.it was to do with moisture getting inside,I know the lights were used on 500 cars .Are your lights the same as factory to look at.? if so its not that.
(this problem showed up in the snow and resulted in them changing back to there original ones.)good luck.Ray from PTEAZER.
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Thanks to all for the replies/suggestions. I had pondered applying a small bead of silicone around the seam....need to do that sometime when I won't be needing the Beast for 24-ish hours in order to allow ample curing time.
I also need to pull out the lenses to see if I can come up with an idea to close up those "holes" in the body sheet metal. Whatever method I may do, I also plan on leaving "weep holes" to allow any water that intrudes into the chamber to safely drain out. I had also considered buying some lenses from a scrap yard (or, a parted-out car as mentioned in an earlier post), but I would have no way to know if the replacements had the same, or worse, problems. Bri |
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How are you installing the bulbs? If heat is an issue and you are installing them with bare hands, the natural oils on you skin may be causing stress fractures on the bulbs similiar to installing headlights. Try installing a set with out touching the glass to see if they last. gloves, kleenex or clean cloth
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This was suggested on another forum, I forget which. Try applying dielectric grease to the base of the bulb where it inserts into the socket. There is supposedly some problem with moisture causing some sort of thermal shock with some bulbs. I have also had the exploding brake light bulb problem, and I looked long and hard to find US made bulbs, not Chinese bulbs. I compromised on East European bulbs.
![]() Disclaimer: I have not tried this yet. I will soon!
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1996 Dodge diesel 4X4, 2001 PT Cruiser Touring with rear disc brakes, 2004 PT Cruiser Base 5 speed, 2007 Chrysler T&C Touring |
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My gf was also having this issue with her 2003 , The lights where getting water into them an they bulb would blow (shatter) anywhere from a week to six months the bulbs would last.
The solution that I have found was to drill a decent diameter hole in the bottom of the tail lamp so that the water could drain out , It has been this way for the better part of a year with out any issues with bulbs blowing (knock on wood). hope this helps. |
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