Yet Another Stalling PT...Tried lots of things

[tokenwizard]

Ok, I have a 2002 model doing a very similar thing. In the cold mornings, when I first crank it up, it will crank right up but then immediately stall out unless I give it a little gas and let it "warm up."

BUT...
Sometimes, it also stalls after I have been driving it for a while and I come to a stop (slowly or abruptly).

About 2 months ago, the timing belt, all drive belts, and the idler control assembly were all replaced by a mechanic. Before that, this problem had only happened on one occasion before, but in the past 3 weeks it has gotten much worse.

I have done a TON of research and it seems to be a VERY prolific problem. I have taken many suggestions. At the mechanic suggestion, I cleaned out the throttle body very well and that seemed to resolve it...for a few days anyway.

Since then, I have replaced:
Spark plugs (correctly gapped to the new .40 spec) and Wires
Throttle Position Sensor
Camshaft Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor

It's as if I have not done a thing. It still acts exactly the same way. I don't think it is the fuel pump because it runs fine most of the time. Someone suggested they had a similar problem on a Lebaron and it was a "fuel sensor." Anybody heard of that? The only other thing I might try is the Oxygen Sensor, but at this point I don't have a lot of hope. I hate to take it to a dealer since most of what I've heard is that the people on the forums know more than their mechanics.

I am still getting the following codes:
P1193 - Intake Air Temp
P0123 -TPS Voltage

Any body got any suggestions?

[Cartman]

the causes for most of the start then stall conditions are usually the SKIM (Immobilizer system), fuel pump, or the TPS. the fuel pump modules are notorious for going bad on these cars, and cause the problems you are describing. chances are though, its just a clogged fuel strainer. start there since it is the cheapest.

[cheechz]

i was just trying to diagnose a similar problem and i think i got it today. did you clean/replace the idle air control motor/valve? i completely disassembled the throttle body and took the two sensors off.. cleaned everything really well with carb cleaner. at the same time i also did the plugs/wires, but i dont think that had anything to do with it.
my symptoms were stalling both when cold or hot, as you go into neutral (manual trans) while coming to a stop. the idle RPM seemed to vary from ~900 to 500. sometimes if i tapped as gently as possible on the accelerator while idling the RPMs would actually go down. it just seemed to me like it was a problem with the idle control motor, and i think that was it.. hopefully the fix lasts.

[PT GEEZR]

Cartman,
Could you explain the fuel strainer's location. This is the first time that I've heard about it. I called the dealer a couple months back when I noticed my fuel pressure had dropped but he said that the fuel filter is actually in the tank with the fuel pump. Is there another filter (strainer) inline somewhere that I've missed?

Thanks

[Cartman]

nope, the fuel filter is part of the 'fuel pump module' and is serviced as a unit (go figure), the strainer on the other hand is serviceable, but it is located on the bottom of the fuel pump module in the fuel tank.

[PT GEEZR]

Next question: how difficult is it to get to the strainer? Do you have to pull the gas tank down or is there an easy way to get to it?

About three years ago, I installed a Whipple SC (I'll spare you the hair pulling details) and part of the setup was to check to see if a constant 55 psi of fuel pressure was present. It was but since then I've seen it slowly drop to 50. I've tried to clean out the sensor on the guage but it did not help.

If the strainer is a booger to get to, I may just buy a new sensor first to see if thats the problem. The SC runs fine but its just one of those things that bug me if its not right.

Thanks for all of your help.

[Cartman]

You will have to drop the tank to access the fuel pump module. it is relatively easy to do if you have access to a lift. some nice tall jack stands could be used also. couple connections, wiring harness connector, fuel neck, nothing major at all.

[notadodge]

Has any one tried the egr valve i had this same problem on my chrystler van and did every thing to it new pump and all and it turned out to be the egr got one used at a junk yard for 25 dollars it is working fine now.. there were no engine codes either on the van that is why we tried every thing else first