![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Site Home | Forum Home | Photo Gallery | PT Events | PT Videos | Car Videos | Parts Search |
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
For preventative maintenance, I changed the timing belt on the 2002 2.4 Liter. Now, won't idle (stalls), unless holding down gas pedal part way. Engine overheated within 15 minutes. Acceleration and high rpms very good (actually exceptional). Overheats even before cooling fans senses high temp. I was quite thorough with alinging the timing marks during installation, following the book. Haven't rechecked timing marks (it'll require tearing it all back down I imajine) No engine warning lights coming on. Can timing be off a tooth? And could this causes such overheating? Thanks Guys....please H E L P !!! Ron.
|
|
|||
|
hi ron, i think you might be off one tooth!!
|
|
|||
|
Sounds like off of a tooth. Did you replace the waterpump, too, while you were in there?
__________________
\'05 Stone White SRT4 \'04 Graphite PT Automatic |
|
|||
|
Did you bleed the air out of the cooling system? There is a bleeder nipple below the radiator cap. And it does sound like timing issue.
|
|
|||
|
Thanks guys for the input. I'll check the bleeding deal. No, I didn't change the water pump-the reason being that to do that, you have to remove the timing belt back covers, which requires removing the camshaft(s) sprockets. We were running out of time for the use of the garage space. (And we had a new pump right there with us). Actually, the hardest part of getting to the timing belt was finding the clearance to remove the engine mount bracket. This bracket is a bohemoth cast iron plate that looks like it was designed to mount a belt sander on it for a production shop! There wasn't enough clearance to the frame to let the bracket out due to it's long deep feet that set in toward the block (where the bolts go). A friend at Midas suggested jacking up the engine higher to get more clearance...that worked. I mean, the passenger side of engine had to get lifted 3-4 inches higher than where it normally sits. With the engine mount disconnected and the lower torque strut disconnected, you can easily move the engine up/down, fwd/back, but NOT left/right while the driver side mount holds fast. Anyway, an associate of mine told me that the timing being off can very well cause overheating. Unfortunately, you can't see the TDC mark with the crankshaft pulley still on, and I don't think you can see the mark on the block with the lower outer cover on. Getting the upper cover off is pretty easy, to see the cam sprocket timing marks. There should be a way to find TDC without seeing the crank marks, right? If it is off a tooth, it'll have to be torn down all the way anyway to correct it. I'm a little baffled with the marks on the camshaft sprockets. It has this big stamp on each sprocket the says "UP" with arrows. But both the sprockets are marked on two spots (precisely 180 degrees across from each other). Now, since the the marks only line up each 2 revolutions of the crankshaft, does it matter if the "UP" is up, or if the "UP" is upside down? (I saw them line up both ways while turning the crank). Any info is great, will keep you posted...Thanks!
Last edited by ronwins3; 01 Mar 2008 at 08:11 pm. |
|
|||
|
I am having the same issue it wont Idle runs great if you hold down the gas how would you fix this take everthing back off and start over?
|
|
|||
|
Quote:
yep thats what you need to do, you're off one tooth, but don't be to hard on yourself, even the repair shop i had my timing belt replaced at did the same thing, they also had to take it back apart again .. so you not the only one that made this mistake. what surprized me is that they told me. |
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
|||
|
you need to follow the service manual instructions, once you remove the timing cover and before removing the timing belt, line up the crankshaft timing mark first, then look at the both camshaft timing marks, according to the haynes repair manual the exhaust timing mark should be 1/2 tooth off towards the bottom side of the intake timing mark. if its is not then you're going to need to remove the timing belt and reinstall it again, after reinstalling, then you need to verify that the timing marks are still aligned, rotate the crankshaft around 2 times and then align the crankshaft back up to the timing mark and then recheck the camshafts timing marks.
|
|
|||
|
After 3 attempts I think its on there right I just hope and prey when I get it all back together for the 2nd time it runs right wish me luck (NOTE: to self NEVER do a timing belt on a front wheel drive car ever again.)
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Timing Belt Replacement Instructions | PTFever | Tech & Performance Forum | 7 | 18 Jun 2011 01:23 pm |
| Timing Belt Replacement | MarkB | Tech & Performance Forum | 38 | 30 Apr 2010 07:38 am |
| Fixed timing belt now another problem | EvilWRX | Tech & Performance Forum | 1 | 13 Feb 2007 09:35 am |
| when to change Timing belt ? | Ctown | General PT Cruiser Discussions | 4 | 19 Jan 2006 10:39 pm |
| Another timing belt question thread :) ??? | Ctown | General PT Cruiser Discussions | 4 | 24 May 2005 08:50 am |