Can You Describe A Stall?

[NewPTCruiserInPA]

I've gotten a lot of good info from the members on here regarding our problematic 06 PT, and as someone who doesn't know how to drive (gasp! I know, pathetic, isn't it?), does this sound like we had a quick stall? My husband gets to experience most of the problems since he is the driver, and he doesn't always paint a clear picture for me!

The background is that for the last 2 weeks the car has been slow to take off in idle. You step on the gas and the car doesn't go. Then when it does it lurches forward a little bit and then takes off, kind of like something isn't kicking into gear. It also lurches a little bit when driving sometimes, like maybe something is misfiring. The big kicker was when my husband was on our street and the car lurched, the power steering went, the gas pedal did nothing, and he had to coast to the curb. While this was happening he said the car was still on, but this happened literally right in front of our neighbor's house, so probably 25 ft from where it first lurched to where he stopped, and I am wondering if he experienced a stall. Like maybe he thought it was on (would the radio stay on?), and it wasn't because it happened so fast.

When he said the power steering went, my thought is that the car is flying out of control. After grilling him for more info, he said the steering went, but he was still able to control it, just that it was harder to turn the wheel. When he experienced the lurching again yesterday in idle (the dealer wasn't able to find anything to fix), he noticed the rpms going down. They came back up after he applied the gas and it finally kicked forward. He drove it around the block and it was fine.

So I am wondering, if the PT had actually stalled while driving, what would turn off? Would the power steering turn off if the car isn't on and make it more difficult to turn the wheel? Would pressing down on the accelerator have any affect if the car was stalled? Would the radio turn off during a stall or since the key is in the start position, would that stay on? After reading on the internet last night about PTs and stalling, some people had reported their car turning back on by itself after a stall, so if the car was on, could it have blipped on and off quickly?

Could this be something as simple as plugs and wires? The car has 25K, we've had it for 6K, and I know we've never had them changed. Would the average car driver be changing out the plugs and wires within the first 18-19K miles? I am guessing that the plugs/wires in our vehicle are the original because I think the previous owners traded it in before it started giving them problems (or right when it did). If not plugs/wires, it seems like it could be fuel delivery system related? Like gas isn't getting to where it's supposed to and it's trying to stall? I'm calling the dealer this morning to see what was actually checked (we're supposed to take it in tomorrow again) because the paperwork they gave us only says they checked for active and stored codes, found none, and they could not replicate issue. If that's ALL they did I'm not going to be too happy, so I hope they just left info off!

[NewPTCruiserInPA]

I swear. When my husband talked to the dealership last night, they said to bring it in on Saturday. When I just talked to them this morning, they asked to bring it in today. When he takes it over, he gets a different person from whom I spoke this morning who starts complaining that they don't have the time to look at it, that they didn't find any codes last time, so they probably won't find any codes this time, etc. My husband started to get mad (which is rare) saying that it's not normal for a car to stall while driving it, and what's he supposed to do, get killed because they couldn't find a code?

I think the ONLY thing they did with it was check for codes and take it for a test drive! Obviously not every problem is going to get a code, because our car is stalling while driving and there is no code! If I wanted them to just look for codes I'd go to Autozone. I'm taking it to the dealer to fix a problem we KNOW it has, and which they need to do more to diagnose if they can't find a code. Cars didn't used to have computers and mechanics were still able to fix them, so there must be a way to figure out the problem when the computer says there isn't one.

I understand this isn't the dealership we bought it from, and I understand that they don't want to get saddled with fixing a car that they didn't sell. But shouldn't you be able to go to ANY Chrylser dealership and get the same service? From what I get out of the warranty info, we need to be going to a dealer. If I had known we would be there several times a month for service, I would have purchased closer to home. In the 7 years I owed my last car, I was only back to the dealer twice!

[CREWZIN]

I can see your frustrated and you should be. On the dealer side, I can see they also have a problem fixing something they can't see or duplicate. Intermittent problems are the worst kinds.

To try and answer a couple of your questions: even when the car stalls, your key is still ON so the radio and most electrical items will still work. The power steering works with the engine turning over so you do loose the power assist but you can still turn the wheel although it is hard to turn and the steering wheel won't lock up as long as the key remains in the ON position. The brakes will still work but the power assist on that too will be gone and it will require harder pressure on the pedal to stop.

I've never heard of a car restarting by itself after a stall as the starter has to engage by that extra small turn of the key unless it's a standard/stick shift, then popping of the clutch can restart the engine.

[NewPTCruiserInPA]

It does get frustrating when you buy a car and expect it to work a certain way and it does the complete opposite. We know it is not normal for a car to stall when driving (and thank you for confirming what I thought about stalling) and it feels like we're getting poo-poo'ed away so that none of the dealers have to deal with it, know what I mean? I just want the Chrysler Certified Used Car I purchased, lol. The one that works like it's supposed to!

I asked about the plugs and wires and they told me that Chrysler did an upgrade in 2005 and that they are better now. Is that true, or should we still get them changed? If I have someone NOT at a dealer do that, will it void my warranty or anything? That's not something that's covered under warranty anyway, so I should be ok?

[CREWZIN]

I haven't heard of the upgrade on the plugs and wires but since yours is an 06 supposedly you have the better ones? No, it won't void anything. Usually the first thing we tell every one that has any kind of trouble is to change those parts as they seem to be rubbish from the factory. I wonder if the change they are talking about is the gap in the spark plugs. Chrysler came out with a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) to change the gap from .050in down to .040in as they found out the PT runs better with that smaller gap but I'm not sure what year that update was.

I changed mine last night in about 40 minutes but I'm afraid you'll have to pay someone about 1 1/2 hours labor plus parts so it's not the cheapest thing to do. The top of the engine (upper manifold) has to come off to gain access.

[2k1PT]

Changing plugs and wires isnt going to void a warranty... Its rutine maint.

My question is, you said it happend when you were making a turn. Is this a hard turn, or just a normal turn?

The reason I ask is that I have noticed on my PT that when I turn the wheel all the way to one side or another, the car will sometimes start to sputter like its going to stall, and have the same symptoms as you described, but once I let go of the wheel, it comes back again..

Just a thought...

[NewPTCruiserInPA]

Now that you mention it, I think she mentioned a computer update, so that's probably what she was talking about. I thought it was actual new plugs and wires, not just a computer update. Are these the Crane wires everyone gets from Race and Street?

PT Cruiser Crane Fire Wires IN STOCK
Code:255-4040
Price: $48.00

I might be able to get my dad to change them out for me, or HIS mechanic. I know he trusts him, and frankly, I don't know anybody!

[NewPTCruiserInPA]

So far the problem with the car almost stalling happens: when making low speed turns, in idle at a light or stop sign, and even when driving in a straight line down the street. So pretty much whenever it feels like it, I think!

It's done it when you stop and then turn, and it has also down it when you just slow down to turn and don't come to a complete stop.

[CREWZIN]

Yes those are the wires everyone talks about and the ones I put in last night but I wasn't really happy with them as all the wires are the same size. A correct fit would be for 2 of the wires to be shorter because the plugs are right next to the coil ends. The MOPAR performance wires are cut correctly for the PT and Neon.

The Cranes do fit it just there's a lot of extra wire and they are a few dollars cheaper than the Performance wires.

Here's the Performance wires....

Mopar Performance Chrysler PT Cruiser OEM High-Performance Ignition Wires 01-Up - AutoTruckToys.com

[NewPTCruiserInPA]

Great! I'll get the performance wires instead.

Are these the spark plugs everyone recommends?

Champion Double Platinum Plugs #7570 gapped at .040in