Will not start

[quicksilverdon]

Originally Posted by cruiser_04

My wife's died on her on the freeway. The motor will turn but won't fire. I do know that the fuel pump is running. I checked relays and fuses as well. I am going to swap the coil in hopes that it is the culpret

Welcome.
Best to start a new thread than add to an old one...
I really doubt it is the coil - they rarely go bad.
How many miles? After 80,000 miles, the timing belt can go.
Is check engine light on?

[cruiser_04]

sorry about that. I am part of another forum so I should have remembered, durr. it has 122,687 miles on it. the fuel pump is running and there is fuel getting to the rail with the right pressure. the cel has been coming on and going off for awhile. I have changed the front o2 sensor and am about to change the downstream this weekend. that is the code that has come up. I just now found the sensor for it because most auto part stores show just the upstream sensor. I work for Napa and we only show one. the only other thing that I have done is installed a new ps hose.

[Hooligan]

04, not to knock NAPA, but some members have had a problem with new aftermarket sensors. When they changed to MOPAR sensors, the problems have disappeared. PT's seem to like MOPAR.

[CREWZIN]

cruiser_04,,

Famous question that we all ask with that kind of mileage .....have you had the timing belt replaced? It should be done somewhere around 90-100,000 miles and could break anytime after that.

Just found a trick/short cut from my mechanic to find out if the timing belt broke.

Take off the Camshaft sensor on the right side of the engine. Look at the space where the sensor was connected (best to have 2 people) while your turning over the starter. If the middle of the of what your looking at doesn't turn while your cranking, the belt has broken. That's the end of one of the camshafts and it won't turn if the belt is broken.

[odellbenton]

Does this mean that the engine is damaged?

[CREWZIN]

Originally Posted by odellbenton

Does this mean that the engine is damaged?

Nothing like jumping into a conversation on your first post without an introduction or full meaning to what your talking about.

Are you talking about what happens if you go to far without changing the timing belt?

[odellbenton]

Please accept my apology. I am new to this as you have already sniffed me out. My daughters 2003 crusier stopped on her Sunday night. The car just slowed down the oil light came on and she turned the car off. I put the car on a ODBII and recieved codes P0016/P0340. I replaced the cam sensor but could not find the crank sensor where the book said it was. So I towed the car to a mechanic. He did a compression test and concluded that it was the timing belt. So, I started doing research and came across the awesome site and have enlighted and horrified as to what I have done to myself by not doing the proper research when I bought this car with 93k knowing that the timing belt had not been changed.

I am in my 21st year of serving in the U.S. Marine Corps and plan to take the car to our auto hobby shop and fix this myself. My bigest concern is that the engine is damaged because this is an interference motor. We do not have the money to put 600-1100 in this car so I am left to do it myself. Again, sorry for just jumping into your conversation. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Odell

[CREWZIN]

odell,

The good news is that your wrong on the type of engine. It's a NON-Interference engine. Which means the valves won't hit the pistons (when the belt breaks) but the valves can hit each other (a lot less expensive). IF you weren't going full throttle, there's a very good chance you have no internal damage. The job alone including parts and labor will run you anywhere between $900 to $1200 because of the labor involved. The PT engine is very labor intensive as far as the timing belt goes. About 5 to 7 hours of labor. You also want to change the water pump, serpentine belt, alternator belt and belt tensioner while doing the timing belt (all included in the estimate I posted). Try and get a couple different estimates from a dealer and private mechanic but if you do go private (less hourly wage) make sure the mechanic has some experience on what's involved with the timing belt change. Far too many people have done it themselves or had inexperienced mechanics do the job and them come here to find out why the PT is still not running right.

Just read your post over and you say your going to do it yourself. Please try and find some good reading material on the PT and if possible get one of your buddies that has mechanical experience to help. Your still going to need about $300 for the parts I listed. If you plan on keeping the car for another year or two you want to change those parts especially the water pump because you still have to do all the labor involved to get to either the timing belt or water pump, and they do wear out. I guess yo can skip the belts and tensioner as they can be done when they break later.

P.S. Thanks for serving.

P.S.S. U.S. Navy retired.

[odellbenton]

CREWZIN,
NON-Interference engine? Thank the Lord! I got bum scoop from my buddy. This is great news. Thanks for the information provided. I believe I have read every post pertaining to changing the timing belt and have taken copious notes. The biggest note was that TORX 55 bolt which can be accessed through wheel well. Outside of lining the belt up properly, which is a huge problem if not done correctly is disconnecting the A/C. Is this absolutely necessary?

Were you a corpsman? I am currently serving with 2nd Medical BN (Acting SgtMaj) I will be retiring in June. Any advice on that would be appreciated.

Odell

[quicksilverdon]

Welcome, Odell.
You run the risk of breaking the metal A/C lines if you swing them out of the way - try PTCrew.com - Learn it or Burn it. - more "wrenches" there, for further advice.

Another Jarhead here - 1stBn, 1stMarines, 1st Mar Div. - S/N 2282216 - QuangTri province from 4/68 - 8/69 (including Khe Sanh) I made E-5 in 2 years (field promotion).
Semper Fi!