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Summary: If your check engine light comes on and the car starts cutting out at 2,300 do NOT use an after market camshaft position sensor and do NOT let the dealer sell you a new PCM, Timing Belt, etc.
My daughters 2005 started cutting out @ 2,300 and the check engine light came on. Since it was Memorial Day, I took it to advanced auto parts where they pulled the code and sold me a Camshaft position sensor $50 . I replaced it (20 minutes..tops) and the problem persisted. I took the car to a trusted local mechanic who checked the new positioner-found it fully functional and suggested that I take it to a Dealer to have the PCM checked. $75 diagnostic fee. My bride took it to a different dealer than the one he suggested. They diagnosed the problem as a timing belt\ water pump issue saying the timing was one tooth off. Estimate $1,170. I thought this sounded outrageous, so, I just paid the $180 diagnostic fee and took it back to my mechanic who pulled the covers at no charge and said that there was no water pump problem. I am now up to $305. This time we took the car to the dealer he suggested where they identified the problem as incompatible (it was functional, just not compatible) replacement Camshaft Position Sensor and charged me $275 parts and labor. Total $580. I could avoided the whole problem by either a) paying the $80 fee for an OEM part or b) leaving the darned thing alone and taking it to my mechanic who would have used an OEM part. Three more lessons I learned. Mike and Jason Henn at Henn Automotive in Waxhaw, NC are great guys. Bob Leonard at Metrolina Chrysler is also very, very honest and patient and will get the job done right. Keffer Jeep Chrysler in Charlotte misdiagnosed the problem and overcharged me on the diagnostic fee. When I complained the service manager called me back and was very concerned. When he called back he explained that they should have charged me more for the diagnostic fee even though the diagnosis was both incorrect and terribly expensve. Avoid Keffer Chrysler and Jeep in Charlotte! In all fairness to Keffer, both the water pump and timing belt will ultimately need to be replaced as part of preventative maintenance. The problem is that this wasn't the problem they were asked to fix. Last edited by kghaddon; 06 Jun 2009 at 09:54 am. |
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Thanks for your update.
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I just had an error code 325 knock sensor, I picked one up at advance auto installed it and now I'm getting a 340 code this is what brought me to see your post. I wonder if I should have used an OEM knock sensor instead of the after market or if the knock sensor was even the problem although that’s the code that came up. I was originally cutting out @ 2,300 rpms but didn't get a 340 code until after I changed the knock sensor. Is it time to go to the dealer or do I try an OEM camshaft position sensor?
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The hourly price of the dealer to diagnose your problem is probably more than the camshaft sensor itself. it's up to you where you want to spend your money.
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Everything considered I stopped by the dealer and picked up the camshaft sensor for $68. One thing I’m not sure of is the required inch pounds of tightness on the bolts? I know the knock sensor was 195 in. lbs., any idea on the camshaft sensor. Thanks for all the input and help.
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CMP sensor retaining bolts: 115 in-lbs or 13 Nm
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