P0138 Fault

[CREWZIN]

Chris, thanks for clearing that up. As you said, it seems to be a common problem.

[Travis2k7]

That's the last time I go to Autozone But hey, my PT has been fooled I guess because the CEL has not returned after clearing the code.

[irishman331]

Thanks to everyone who helped out here. Crewsin, yes it's true that the belt and pump thing was not good news. However, I'd rather hear it from you here and now rather than from a technician telling me about how the valves are a tangled pile of crap because they lost the fight with the pistons.
My best friend's son owns an indy shop and he just hired a Chrysler tech so I'll probably have him do it.
He said warranty pays something like 5.5 and CP was 8.0 +. Doesn't look like things have changed much since I wrenched. Same old crap with warranty.
I mean if it takes a good line man 7 to 8 hours to actually do it, then warranty is way too little. Then Chilton and all of the other middle man sucking machines buy the warranty times from the big three and add 25% so now you have a low customer pay job as well as a warranty job that would tax even the good techs.
Anyway, before I do that, I pulled the control arms off to have some bushings put in trying to nail down what feels like a wobble on mid to hard acceleration. It's not the rims or tires. I get zero wobble from the steering wheel, but it feels like a hard wobble when I for instance am on the freeway and the road goes up steeply, and I have to get in it more.
Anyway, I'm pretty sure it's at least caused by the lower control arm rear bushings. They are completely broken. In removing the control arm, I had to remove something called a torque strut and it has a rubber mount in it that attaches to the front engine mount I believe. But this rubber is also destroyed, so the engine likely moves a bit when it is pushed. That could also cause what I'm feeling. I'm going to drive down and have the control arm bushings pressed in this morning, When it's rolling again, I'll call my friend who said he would pick it up and bring it back.
Sounds like all of these things are par for the PT course though.
Thanks again for the help.
Joe

[irishman331]

One more thing. I did the plugs and wires the night I talked to you guys first. I did not use the Champions although y'all seem to have them as first choice. I used Bosch Platinum with four tips. Did I do okay? And I also replaced the wires as well. The old plugs were gapped anywhere between .055 and .080. They had been in there since Moses took the directions down. I haven't run it that much, but the rough idle thing mostly is still there but like Crewsin said, it's probably the best getting ready to unhinge.
I'll keep you guys posted on that.
Thanks
Joe

[CREWZIN]

Yes the engine mounts have been a cause of concern for a lot of owners and could possibly be what you feeling on the highway. The bushing are another fast wearing part for a lot of people. Hopefully you'll get it all sorted out.

[irishman331]

One more thing. I did the plugs and wires the night I talked to you guys first. I did not use the Champions although y'all seem to have them as first choice. I used Bosch Platinum with four tips. Did I do okay? And I also replaced the wires as well. The old plugs were gapped anywhere between .055 and .080. They had been in there since Moses took the directions down. I haven't run it that much, but the rough idle thing mostly is still there but like Crewsin said, it's probably the belt getting ready to unhinge.
I'll keep you guys posted on that.
Thanks
Joe

[CREWZIN]

We heard ya the first time.

The Bosch should do very well but it sounds like they can't be gaped (4 tips). What do they say they are pre-gaped at? You want to be around .040in.

[Travis2k7]

Originally Posted by CREWZIN

The Bosch should do very well but it sounds like they can't be gaped (4 tips). What do they say they are pre-gaped at? You want to be around .040in.

Yes the Bosch 4 tips are what I put in mine and they were pre-gapped at .040 and have performed well, no issues.

[slartyblarfast]

Originally Posted by irishman331

My best friend's son owns an indy shop and he just hired a Chrysler tech so I'll probably have him do it.
He said warranty pays something like 5.5 and CP was 8.0 +. Doesn't look like things have changed much since I wrenched. Same old crap with warranty.

Anyway, before I do that, I pulled the control arms off to have some bushings put in trying to nail down what feels like a wobble on mid to hard acceleration. It's not the rims or tires. I get zero wobble from the steering wheel, but it feels like a hard wobble when I for instance am on the freeway and the road goes up steeply, and I have to get in it more.
Anyway, I'm pretty sure it's at least caused by the lower control arm rear bushings. They are completely broken. In removing the control arm, I had to remove something called a torque strut and it has a rubber mount in it that attaches to the front engine mount I believe. But this rubber is also destroyed, so the engine likely moves a bit when it is pushed. That could also cause what I'm feeling. I'm going to drive down and have the control arm bushings pressed in this morning, When it's rolling again, I'll call my friend who said he would pick it up and bring it back.
Sounds like all of these things are par for the PT course though.
Thanks again for the help.
Joe

Actually after you've done a few it's not hard to beat warranty time! I can do them in about 2.5 to 3 hrs!
As for the shudder it is probably related to the motor mounts. After you replace them if it is still there then the problem is in the axles. See it all the time. The bad thing is after repalcing the axles sometimes it's alot better sometimes it's worse. It's kind of a crap shoot.

[irishman331]

Yes, the plugs like I said have four tips and I didn't have a clue how to gap them so I did like I tell people not to do...I just took the manufacturer's word that they are gapped properly. I don't remember it saying what the gap was, but I'm sure they'll be okay.
Found out something today about machine shops or places who will press a bushing out and in. I live in Corona, California and Norco is a smaller town that adjoins Corona. I started out asking AutoZone who might be able to press them for me and they said they don't have anyone so they can't recommend anyone. I went over to the America's Tire store where I've done a fair amount of business and they said they don't know either.
I talked to a customer while there and he told me where to go. That place had a machine shop that got closed yesterday for good. They gave me a name that is for sure but not open on weekends. I mean every single dealer I ever worked for had at least some rickety, broken down press that was probably more dangerous than anything, and now only one shop in these two towns. I may go buy a press and hand an OPEN sign on my door and make a ton of money. Good think this is not my normal driving vehicle or I'd be tanked.
I'm sure I'll be hitting the Zone for a torque strut? They're about $70.00 but have to be ordered. i'm sure if the lower control arm bushings don't take care of it, the strut will. So far, not a bad vehicle to work on. Or maybe it's just that I'm used to Fords and some of those are the worst, dirty rotten design nightmares every to roll around on four wheels (Probe,Contour, 4WD 5.0 Explorers, etc). Sometimes I used to think that they would design them so they couldn't be serviced easily then sit back and wonder who is going to either figure it out, or eat the gun.