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Welcome.
Go to the second mechanic and take it from there. Hard to say what PS problem is - could be just a leak.
__________________
'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler. Mods: E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar. Traded in '02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles |
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Swiveltech,
I'm not a genius when it comes to cars by any means and have had no experience working with the power steering system. However, I had (at 60k!) some of the same problems you have and they were remedied by bearings, bushings, rotors, and pads. Maybe have your mechanic check those a little more closely. Also check the CV boots and joints. Question: Is the growling at idle happen when you're in drive and moving (however slowly) or in park? If you're moving I would point to your bearings. That dealer was definitely pinching you. One thing I can say is that you probably do need new bushings. They're weak sauce and a lot of people have had them replaced much much much earlier than 111k. Bushings at my dealer ran about 250 installed. For little pieces of rubber, those things are a B to replace. The dealer charges for 2.5 hours or so per side. Hope this helps give you an idea where you should look. Your new mechanic can probably give you more insight into your car than I can. Best of Luck. Keep us posted.
__________________
2003 Touring Edition. 65k
Here's to a long life and a happy one. A quick death and an easy one. A pretty girl and an honest one. A cold beer and another one! ![]() |
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My '01 currently has the exact same problems. I was sure the power steering leak was a line but it turned out to be the pressure switch. I have been having suspension noises for some time so don't doubt my mech's diagnosis of both ball joints and control arms. He said such wear is common on the Cruiser and Neon. He is good but expensive and I'm going to let him have the job because I don't have the time. He quoted $1k for the works.
For a comparison, he did the timing belt and waterpump about a year ago for $1100 and said I needed brakes. I did the brakes myself and I recommend it as they are quite easy..... The entire power steering rack is about $450 in the aftermarket but $600 to 700 at the dealer. Last edited by Mal; 15 Aug 2009 at 01:49 pm. |
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Hi Mal (and everyone else),
The brakes are definitely not an issue with me as far as difficulty goes. And, for now, neither is the power steering...anymore. It turns out it just needed a good flushing. Since money is an issue with me I figured I'd go with the options I can afford this week--namely, brake pads and power steering fluids. I used 2 quarts of ATF+4 and a quart of Penzoil PS Fluid Plus Conditioner, along with a simple siphon bulb system. Ran it through about 6 or 7 cycles, using the PS+C last, of course. The groaning is GONE. The 8-mile ride back home from my friend's garage (it helps to know people, huh?) was nice and quiet, aside from... the control arm bushings. I took a look under the car and, OH yeah, the rear isolator bushings on both sides are just plain f***ed up. But at least I now know what IS and ISN'T the real problem and/or the cause of my failed inspection. I took my car to the other mech earlier this week and the guy was very cool and very honest with me. Basically, if I (or they) show that the brake pads and bushing issues have been repaired, $10 and the reinspection will be no problem. I'm beginning to feel very positive right now.... |
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