How to drain oil?

[PTNoob01695]

Hi

I've be carrying out a full service on the weekend and im just wondering where under the car do i drain the oil?

[Travis2k7]

Is this your first oil change?

[CREWZIN]

Originally Posted by Travis2k7

Is this your first oil change?

If it is, make sure you park in a place you don't mind an oil spill or cover the ground with a large absorbent material.

I'll get a picture up here in a minute to help you.

Here you go... your interested in #4 and #5 of the top picture.

The oil pan nut is 13mm. Changing oil and filter takes 5 quarts. Put a thin film of oil on the rubber gasket of the new oil filter before screwing it on. Turn the filter by hand till it stops turning then use a filter wrench and tighten it 1/4 turn more. NO more than that.

[mopar_man]

Originally Posted by CREWZIN

Turn the filter by hand till it stops turning then use a filter wrench and tighten it 1/4 turn more. NO more than that.

I wish more Jiffy Lube-type places would take those wrenches away from the people working there. More times than I can count I've had to remove filters with a screwdriver and hammer because even the wrench was slipping on the filter. Make them dip their hand in oil and when they can't tighten the filter with their oily hand anymore, it's good. I'm not saying you're wrong in tightening the filter with a wrench but most people think it's like tightening a bolt. Snug it up by hand and call it good. You won't need the wrench next time it needs to come off and it won't leak.

[CREWZIN]

I know what your saying and you and I know that but telling someone to just hand tighten it, they might get the idea to just stop turning as soon as it stops turning and I don't think that's enough. Under pressure you'll have oil pushing out and it might even turn itself out with vibration. That's why I suggest 1/4 turn past hand tight.


...and my story. FREE oil change with purchase of tires. This was on my Vette where the oil filter is screwed into an oil cooler. Next time I went to change the filter, like you, it wouldn't budge, AT ALL. When it did start to move with a lot of pressure, the oil cooler started to turn and that was put on with an impact wrench with more pressure than you can imagine. I had to unscrew the water lines that went to the cooler so the filter and cooler could turn and the whole thing could come off so I could work on getting the filter free from the cooler while it was on the work bench. That's the last time (20 years ago) that anyone ever changed the oil but me.

[Hooligan]

I have NEVER used a filter wrench to tighten the filter, once you put a thin film of oil on the "O" ring and tighten it as tight as you can by hand that is more than enough.

[mopar_man]

Originally Posted by CREWZIN

That's the last time (20 years ago) that anyone ever changed the oil but me.

That's tighter than anything I've ever had to deal. If I remember correctly, I've only ever had someone else change my oil once. I didn't have a heated garage and the temperatures were ridiculously low that winter. Luckily they didn't mess it up.

Anyway, good luck to the original poster. Since it doesn't sound like you've changed oil before, get yourself a drain pan. Don't try to improvise with anything. This is recommended:


If you can't find one or only plan on changing your oil once for some reason, one of these is cheaper and will work:

[yaris]

Originally Posted by CREWZIN

I know what your saying and you and I know that but telling someone to just hand tighten it, they might get the idea to just stop turning as soon as it stops turning and I don't think that's enough. Under pressure you'll have oil pushing out and it might even turn itself out with vibration. That's why I suggest 1/4 turn past hand tight.


...and my story. FREE oil change with purchase of tires. This was on my Vette where the oil filter is screwed into an oil cooler. Next time I went to change the filter, like you, it wouldn't budge, AT ALL. When it did start to move with a lot of pressure, the oil cooler started to turn and that was put on with an impact wrench with more pressure than you can imagine. I had to unscrew the water lines that went to the cooler so the filter and cooler could turn and the whole thing could come off so I could work on getting the filter free from the cooler while it was on the work bench. That's the last time (20 years ago) that anyone ever changed the oil but me.

I know what you are talking about, the one(which I suspect being a canadian tire because of the motomaster filter) who changed the oil of my pt before I bought it tighened both the filter and the plug alot, I had to take a pretty long wrench to take off the filter(which ended quite deformed) and the air impact to remove the plug

[mopar_man]

Originally Posted by yaris

the air impact to remove the plug

I used to work at a shop doing oil changes and tires. One car came in with a rounded off drain plug. I have a pair of Channellock "Nutbusters" that will remove just about anything but that drain plug was in tight enough that I couldn't budge it. I sent them back to the idiot dealership that did the oil change last.

[Carl48]

At work (air-cooled aircraft engines), we coat the rubber oil filter gasket with Dow Corning DC4 compound...it is a silicone dielectric grease good to 400F. Never had a problem removing a filter when this grease was used. As for how tight...follow the filter manufacturer instructions (usually printed right on the can).