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Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 25 Aug 2009, 09:01 pm
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Default Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

I just purchased a 2001 pt crusier and have several things wrong, one being we replaced the power steering pump that seems ok, but when we are idiling after even driving for 10 min it starts to overheat, we have to pull over turn the car off or put heat on full blast..also now we have no rear brake lights...the fuses seem ok...help please
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Old 25 Aug 2009, 09:25 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

Sounds like fan motor and multifunction switch. Fan motors can be aftermarket, but MF switch must be from Chrysler and last numbers I saw was 3,000 on backorder, that would be the ones with fog lamps.

Welcome to the Forum, ChrissyP.
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Old 25 Aug 2009, 09:51 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

Is your fan coming on? It could also be a stuck thermostat. Another possibility is a plugged radiator if a previous owner decided to use stop leak in it.

As for the rear lights, do the park lights come on when you turn the headlights on? If they do and you don't get any brake lights, it could be the brake light switch above the pedal.
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1973 Barracuda
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2002 PT Cruiser
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Modifications: Boogers, Maddog 80% STS, Auto throttle body, Airbox modifications, Eibach Pro springs, Energy Suspension control arm bushings & motor mount inserts, disabled balance shafts.
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Modifications: Lowered 2" front and rear, flat black paint, emblems and trim removed and filled, pinstriping, big 'n little tires.
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Old 26 Aug 2009, 09:25 am
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

I hope its not a $3,000 part..could explain why i got the car for a steal!! Fan motor does not come on, with air or heat..but that really doesnt make sense considering we have heat and we had air last week..sorry im a chick and no i dont know a thing about cars until i bought this problem child..i think I know every last name for each part on this car lol

Is your fan coming on? It could also be a stuck thermostat. Another possibility is a plugged radiator if a previous owner decided to use stop leak in it.

As for the rear lights, do the park lights come on when you turn the headlights on? If they do and you don't get any brake lights, it could be the brake light switch above the pedal

well...how can i see if the thermostat is stuck or if the rad is plugged??..we noticed the resevoir for the colant is half full, but the cap is completely full...almost like its not getting to the engine ( thats what ive been told, sorry hope that makes sense

all the lights work except the rear brake lights (all interior, headlights, parking lights...i will have the switch above the pedal checked...is it visible by sticking your head under there, or do you have to remove a panel...thanks guys appreciate the help..as to being taken advantage of because im a women at a local garage
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Old 26 Aug 2009, 10:21 am
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

Open the hood.
Start the car and let it idle.
Turn on the A/C.
Go around and see if engine fan is on - if not, the fan is bad.

If the top (third) brake light doesn't come on as well as the other 2 lights, probably the switch.
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Old 26 Aug 2009, 12:06 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissyp View Post
well...how can i see if the thermostat is stuck or if the rad is plugged??..we noticed the resevoir for the colant is half full, but the cap is completely full...almost like its not getting to the engine ( thats what ive been told, sorry hope that makes sense
There's not really any tests you can do until you take it apart. The thermostat is cheap enough that replacing it is good insurance. To check the radiator, you'll have to drain it and remove the upper and lower hoses. Put a garden hose into the top and if any water backs up out of the top, it's plugged. It should flow freely out the bottom. A good radiator shop should be able to clean it or replacements are about $100.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksilverdon View Post
Open the hood.
Start the car and let it idle.
Turn on the A/C.
Go around and see if engine fan is on - if not, the fan is bad.
It could also be a fuse or relay but likely the fan since they're known to be bad.
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1973 Barracuda
340/auto
Modifications: Too many.
2002 PT Cruiser
N/A 2.4L/5-speed
Modifications: Boogers, Maddog 80% STS, Auto throttle body, Airbox modifications, Eibach Pro springs, Energy Suspension control arm bushings & motor mount inserts, disabled balance shafts.
1989 Caprice Wagon
307/auto
Modifications: Lowered 2" front and rear, flat black paint, emblems and trim removed and filled, pinstriping, big 'n little tires.

Last edited by mopar_man; 26 Aug 2009 at 12:08 pm.
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Old 26 Aug 2009, 01:30 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissyp View Post
I just purchased a 2001 pt crusier and have several things wrong, one being we replaced the power steering pump that seems ok, but when we are idiling after even driving for 10 min it starts to overheat, we have to pull over turn the car off or put heat on full blast..also now we have no rear brake lights...the fuses seem ok...help please
Ok.... your fan is inoperative, needs to be replaced. As for the brake lights.... does the 3rd brake light come on when you press the brakes? I ask because I have seen the bulbs just burn out. One burns out, nobody knows. Another one goes out then somebody finally notices. If you are not mechanically inclined I would find somebody who is and have them check the brake light bulbs. Also might want to check the brake light fuse.
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Old 26 Aug 2009, 07:04 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

no brake lights at all, no second or third and no parking lights..we had brake lights until the power steering pump was replaces..if that has anything to do with it, were unsure! fuses seem fine, we replaced them anyhow, and i guess the bulbs are next...what is the switch everyone talks of..above the pedal?? is it beneath a panel or is it visible by just looking near the pedal??

thanks mopar_man..we will try that with the rad..although getting into that crammed underhood is enough of a headache lol!

also any other way to get air outta the power sterring lines either then turning the wheels back n forth? it goes away after 10min but still annoying as hell....

any more comments will help..
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Old 26 Aug 2009, 07:11 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissyp View Post
no brake lights at all, no second or third and no parking lights..we had brake lights until the power steering pump was replaces..if that has anything to do with it, were unsure! fuses seem fine, we replaced them anyhow, and i guess the bulbs are next...what is the switch everyone talks of..above the pedal?? is it beneath a panel or is it visible by just looking near the pedal??
If you have no park lights, then it's likely the multi-function switch (the arm for your signal lights that has the headlight switch on it). It's easy to replace but difficult to get a replacement from Chrysler. There's a used one for sale in the classifieds here right now though. It can't hurt to check your bulbs but I doubt that both filaments in both bulbs are burned out along with all three third brake light bulbs.
__________________
1973 Barracuda
340/auto
Modifications: Too many.
2002 PT Cruiser
N/A 2.4L/5-speed
Modifications: Boogers, Maddog 80% STS, Auto throttle body, Airbox modifications, Eibach Pro springs, Energy Suspension control arm bushings & motor mount inserts, disabled balance shafts.
1989 Caprice Wagon
307/auto
Modifications: Lowered 2" front and rear, flat black paint, emblems and trim removed and filled, pinstriping, big 'n little tires.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 26 Aug 2009, 09:12 pm
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Default Re: Rear brake lights and car overheats while idiling

It's kinda hard to diagnose over the internet but that's what I have run into. Can't see what replacing the p/s pump would have to do with no lights but weirder things have happened. I believe the parking lights and brake lights are actually on different circuits but not 100 percent sure. Just for a cheap, quick test replace one of the brake light bulbs. You will need a 3157 bulb. I have seen the switch go bad but it's very rare.
To get the air out it should bleed itself pretty quick. Check the fluid level. If it's low then it can suck air and cause noise. That's the most likely issue. What I normally do is run it for a minute or 2, turn the engine off. Let the air come up and let the bubbles pop. Do that 2 or 3 times and you should get all the air out. Fluid level is pretty critical here.
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