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Headgasket R&R

 
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 01:45 am
UptownSport's Avatar
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Default Headgasket R&R NA 2.4

I'll only illustrate items that are difficult, or there's a quick procedure. Not a step by step.


What you'll need:
1. Headgasket. Fel-Pro MLS. Rockauto.com
- Water neck gasket (Friendly Mopar/Chrysler Dealer)
- Valve cover Gasket (Fel-Pro, Rockauto.com)
- I'd STRONGLY suggest replacing timing belt (Gates kit w/o Water pump
rockauto.com) AND water Pump (Get an OE Chrysler NEW, NOT a reman)
- Optional: Replace manifold upper and lower gaskets.
2. Digital or hard copy of factory Service Manual-Specifications for HG torque.
3. Quality tools. Craftsman. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive, metric 6 point sockets;
8mm (or 5/16), 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm (or 3/4") and wrenches. Various length extensions.
Full set of Torx drivers
If the time belt idler pulley's been replaced before, aftermarket pulleys
have 17mm wrench size.
Get 'ratcheting' wrenches in these sizes, invented by God.
Some type of plier to remove hose clamps, etc., Prybars, screwdrivers,
gasket scrapers, Block and sandpaper, etc.
3-Jaw Puller, The Craftsman combo 2-3 worked well.
Torque Wrench
Metric Allen Wrenches (some tensioners used allen wrench to adjust)
Torx for Passenger's mount bolt and idler T-XX
Line up punches
Drain pan
4. Misc
Oil, liquid wrench, grease etc. in a handy dispenser.
Anti-seize and Permatex #3
BrakeClean
Acetone, etc to clean gasket surfaces
Gunk Engine Cleaner
Rags

#1. Wash engine thoroughly, top and bottom. Remove the passenger's
splash shield and get the gunk/washer wand into pulley area. Use a couple
cans of Gunk. The cleaner; the Happier you'll be later!!!
Remove splash shield:
There's five fasteners. The three into the frame rail are 10mm wrench size, you'll need a socket and long extension to
access those three. The other two weren't there when we first removed. Also note engine mount bolt location.

Here's the shield removed:


I'll loosely follow the FSM here:

(2) Remove clean air hose and air cleaner housing
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR
CLEANER HOUSING - REMOVAL).
Remove airbox; loosen TB hoseclamp (Regular screwdriver, 8mm, 5/16 wrench size) and pull off entire airbox assembly.

About 10 seconds later:

(3) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(4) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

(5) Remove upper intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
Pull plastic cover.
Remove throttle cables, see little tab:

TB: Remove the two (13mm wrench size) bolts on the TB support. See also EGR Picture)

Disconnect sensors/Hoses. Straightforward,


The AIS connector sucks, you have to press blindly in an unintuitive spot:


EGR Pipe:


Here's the backside of what you're removing, and various sensor connectors:


Remove the upper intake and TB as assembly.

(6) Remove fastener attaching dipstick tube to
lower intake manifold
(Fig. 23) or (Fig. 24).
Dipstick (10mm wrench):

(7) Turbocharger equipped vehicles: Remove
lower intake manifold support bracket (Fig. 24).
What underside of lower intake looks like:

(8) Disconnect the fuel supply line quick-connect at
the fuel rail assembly
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Gas will spurt out.
(9) Remove heater tube support bracket from cylinder
head.


(10) Remove upper radiator hose. Disconnect
heater hoses from thermostat housing.

(Note: I removed the hard lines entirely)

(11) Disconnect engine coolant temperature sensor
connector.

(12) Remove accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
One reference below to accessory belt idler.

Alternator, 13mm wrench size tightens/loosens belt,
15mm Wrench size secures the alternator in place.


(13) Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Four nuts, if you have a ratcheting 13mm wrench, did it all from top.
See exhaust manifold and pipe pictures below.
(14) Turbocharger equipped vehicles: (Fig. 25)
Remove turbocharger heat shields
Remove elbow support bracket
Remove turbocharger support bracket

(15) Turbocharger equipped vehicles: (Refer to
11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/
LINES AND HOSES - REMOVAL) (Fig. 26).
Remove oil return tube
Remove oil supply line
Remove coolant supply line
Remove coolant return line
(16) Disconnect ignition coil wiring connector.
Remove ignition coil and plug wires from engine.


(17) Disconnect camshaft position sensor wiring
connector.

(18) Remove timing belt and camshaft sprockets
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
Get 8mm six point sockets, ensure they are firmly on timing cover bolts,
with these as pulley stop, loosen the cam pulley bolts.
Locale of timing cover bolts. Wasn't fun.


Here's loosening the pulley, the prybar s wedged against an oil pan bolt boss. You can barely see the lower alternator bolt (15mm)
Also note someone had ground the frame rail, my guess was to remove the
lower mount bolt.

Last edited by UptownSport; 24 Oct 2011 at 11:42 am.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 01:48 am
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Default Headgasket R&R


This took 2hrs. Engine bay, note injector rail set aside in airbox area..

No carbon on valves; valve cover is efficient in separating crankcase
ventilation from oil, guides/seals are good.


Space in front of Fan

To pull the flywheel, I used a longer mount bolt of a Neon.


Inexpensive Craftsman puller. Note how the one jaw is at the extreme end of cut out; they can't slip out (When actually pulling, all jaws
are so positioned):
Also note accessory belt idler, extreme right.

Access to Power steering pump (13mm wrench size) bolts is simple. I also loosened the rear bracket, see picture in instruction #25 below.
IIRC, bracket was 15mm wrench size.
Here's where life really begins to suck. The mount bracket. It is next to impossible to remove.

Remove four manifold to exhaust bolts, you'll need to raise passenger's side engine very high.
We loosened the engine mount (four 13mm wrench size) and rotated it. You can see there's a tab sticking up that prevents the bracket from going over the frame.

(19) Remove timing belt idler pulley and rear timing
belt cover
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(20) Non-Turbo equipped vehicles: Remove fasteners
securing power steering pump fluid reservoir/
bracket to cylinder head.
(13mm Wrench size):


(21) Remove cylinder head cover

(22) Remove camshafts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).

(23) Remove rocker arms.
(24) Remove cylinder head bolts in the reverse
sequence of tightening

(25) Remove cylinder head from engine block.
Block, Power Steer Fluid Reservoir, PS bracket loosened, and corner of pump.
Note the bizarre piston choice.

One of the reasons the head didn't lift:


Corresponding boss on block (center), Coolant drain plug (left), Crank Position Sensor (Extreme left), Oil Pressure switch (right):


(26) Inspect and clean cylinder head and block
sealing surfaces.

Cylinder Head Inspection/Repair

NOTE: Ensure cylinder head bolt holes in the block
are clean, dry (free of residual oil or coolant), and
threads are not damaged.


INSTALLATION:
(1) Position the new cylinder head gasket on engine block with the part number facing up. Ensure gasket is seated over the locating dowels in block. (People DO mess this up, it'll go on either way)
(2) Position cylinder head onto engine block.
(3) Before installing the bolts, the threads should be lightly coated with engine oil.
(4) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence
Using the 4 step torque-turn method, tighten according to the following values:
First: All to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.)
Second: All to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
Third: All to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for the Fourth step.
Fourth: Turn all bolts an additional 1/4 Turn
(5) Install rocker arms and camshafts
(6) Install cylinder head cover
Install camshafts with 1/4" drilled hole UP! See below!
(7) Install rear timing belt cover and timing belt
idler pulley

(8) Install camshaft sprockets and timing belt
INSTALLATION - TIMING BELT
(1) Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning sprocket with the arrow on oil pump housing.
(2) Set camshafts timing marks so that exhaust camshaft sprocket is a 1/2 notch below intake camshaft sprocket
CAUTION: Ensure that the arrows on both camshaftsprockets are facing up.
(3) Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley,
camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner
(4) Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up belt slack.
(5) Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner
pulley. Rotate the top plate COUNTERCLOCKWISE.
The tensioner pulley will move against the belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually
start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate
counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with spring tang. Using the allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, torque the tensioner lock bolt to 25 Nm (220 in. lbs.). Setting
notch and spring tang should remain aligned after lock nut is torqued.
(6) Remove allen wrench and torque wrench.
NOTE: Repositioning the crankshaft to the TDC position must be done only during the CLOCKWISE
rotation movement. If TDC is missed, rotate a further two revolutions until TDC is achieved. DO NOT
rotate crankshaft counterclockwise as this will make verification of proper tensioner setting impossible.
(7) Rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete revolutions manually for seating of the belt,
until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position.
Verify that the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are in proper position
(8) Check if the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If the spring tang is within the
tolerance window, the installation process is complete and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is
not within the tolerance window, repeat Steps 5 through 7.
(9) Install upper and lower front timing belt covers
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.

Get out the manual, read it carefully, understand what you're doing and why.
There are two marks on cam gears,
(NOTE THIS IS THE 2.0 VERSION!!!! Don't put "2.0" 'out' on a 2.4!!!!!!!!)

as I said, ensure you install cams with
drilled holes UP.

(pic courtesy of Jeff Ball, aka 'Booger Man'
(9) Connect cam sensor wiring connector.
(10) Install ignition coil and plug wires. Connect
ignition coil wiring connector.

(11) Non-Turbo equipped vehicles: Install
power steering pump reservoir/bracket to cylinder

head.
(12) Turbocharger equipped vehicles: (Refer to
11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/
LINES AND HOSES - INSTALLATION)
Install coolant return line
Install coolant supply line
Install oil supply line
Install oil return tube
(13) Turbocharger equipped vehicles:
Install elbow
Install turbocharger support bracket
Install elbow support bracket
Install turbocharger heat shields
(14) Install exhaust pipe to manifold. Tighten fasteners
to 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).

(15) Install accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Connect engine coolant temperature sensor
connector.

(17) Connect upper radiator hose. Connect heater
hoses to thermostat housing.

(18) Install heater tube support bracket to cylinder
head.

(19) Turbocharger equipped vehicles: Install
lower intake manifold support bracket

(20) Install fastener attaching dipstick tube to
lower intake manifold

(21) Connect fuel supply line quick-connect at the
fuel rail assembly

(22) Install upper intake manifold
(23) Fill cooling system (
(24) Connect negative cable to battery.
(25) Install clean air hose and air cleaner housing


HELPFUL HINT from our guy PTFL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTFL View Post
So with new style kit I started the engine still sitting on the jack to make sure the belt was centered.
Also great check for timing before final assembly


Notes:
* You may wish to get black paint/primer and refinish some items.
* Be liberal with grease / anti-seize. You'll be happy later, or make someone
else happy.
* Carefully research hard to get at items; there's zero economy in cheap
water pumps! Accessory belt, on other had, is relatively EZ to access,
and will only disable PS/AC -Non critical.
* Now would be an excellent time to ensure spark plug threads don't
need heli-coils!!!
* Engine / head were (at least in my pre- '01 experience) very good
pieces. Any engine can experience trauma (ran out of oil, overheated).
Don't be afraid of your engine because it has 250,000 miles, with
minimal maintenance, it will go much, much further.
* Be very careful you get the correct sparkplugs- 'PT's used longer plugs than '00 and older, parts countermen make this mistake often!
nark and Pitcrust like this.

Last edited by UptownSport; 14 Jun 2012 at 04:40 pm.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 07:57 am
Chromenut's Avatar
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

Excellent job of documenting this!
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Please visit the Tech Docs Library and you'll find many of your answers!
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 08:12 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

UptownSport,

This is great. I think a lot of people here really appreciate it, as do I.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 10:24 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

I've added it to the HOW TO sticky on top of the Tech section. Thanks.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 10:29 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

am I missing something, I cant see the pic's?
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 10:31 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4safari View Post
am I missing something, I cant see the pic's?
Yep, your missing something. Loads of pics in the upper part of this thread.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 10:40 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

sorry for the hijack I just see red "X"'s all over the place.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 10:46 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4safari View Post
sorry for the hijack I just see red "X"'s all over the place.

Your computer. It's fine here.
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Old 20 Jan 2011, 11:05 am
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Default Re: Headgasket R&R

Great info for people who are curious how to do this.
I always get my camera out before I start, so I remember where some things are routed. Seem to forget more then I used to!
I feel your pain working outside in the cold.
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