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Old 19 Feb 2011, 10:59 pm
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Default Magnaflow cat

Has anyone put in a free flow cat? I installed a dc sport muffler not too long ago and I wanted to get my pt to sound a bit more muscle now. I was thinking I would get a free flow cat to replace the stock one. What do you guys think I should do? Also I have a n/a pt so that might make the difference in answers
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Old 19 Feb 2011, 11:11 pm
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

A free flow cat wont do you any good since your car is NA.The NA PT's need back pressure to make power so you would probably lose power with a free flow system.
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Old 19 Feb 2011, 11:51 pm
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

what he said you need back pressure in the Non Turbo
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 12:03 am
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

Hey guys, Bhunt wants to know if adding a glass pack to the exhaust system with the DC muffler he already has, would be a good idea?
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 12:06 am
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

Quote:
Originally Posted by gkid1983 View Post
Hey guys, Bhunt wants to know if adding a glass pack to the exhaust system with the DC muffler he already has, would be a good idea?
As in 2 mufflers?
No,dont do it.
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 12:08 am
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

cuz a glass pack is a muffler right?
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 12:09 am
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

Quote:
Originally Posted by gkid1983 View Post
cuz a glass pack is a muffler right?
Yep,a glasspack is a muffler.
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 12:12 am
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

kool i'll tell'em.
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 01:25 am
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

a glass pack is sound absorbing it does not have baffles like a muffler does you they are usually straight through and the glass helps absorb and deaden some of the ricer sounds the motor makes
I cant see what it would do to help it does not create back pressure so its not a good option and the 1st muffler will already quiet the exhaust
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Old 20 Feb 2011, 01:42 pm
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Default Re: Magnaflow cat

bhunt, what is a DC mufffler? Can you post a pic?

Your first concern about a high flow cat (not the same as a muffler in any way) is "no" it will not help your N/A. It would, IF you had all the necessary supporting mods. A motor is an air pump and you have remove any and all bottlenecks to make any of the individual mods work to their full potential. In other words;

1. A true "ram air" cold air intake (filter) system. Ram air is the real key here. It creates a shaped laminar flow (think water through a hose) from the point the air first touches the front of our car straight through to the throttle body. I use the K&N Apollo on my N/A. It's the only one that is available commercially that is a "true" ram air/cold air

2. Throttle body is next, our auto throttle bodies are already 52mm, so no change is needed here (unless you have mtx) and even then you would have to have a lot of mods to need a bigger tb. My tb is a stock atx 52.

3. Intake manifold. The turbo plastic intake outflows the stock N/A intake and the runners are better balanced. The only real improvement you could make to it would be irtb's and that would only be with "all" of the mods I'm listing, plus some I'm not. Higher compression pistons, nitrous, etc. I use the plastic turbo on my N/A. You could use something like the SRT4 intake but it adds horsepower at the top end and that envariably means a loss of power on the bottom end. Also, the top end power gain would only START to come in at the very leading edge of our stock rpm limits. Not worth the effort imho unles you can get rid of our rpm limiters.

4. Cams are a must. ALL engines will benefit from the "correct" cam(s). Cams have been used to allow more air in and more air out in almost every "performance" engine since mods first started. This is acheived basically by increasing lift, overlap, duration, etc. Crane cams (now gone) made a great selection of cams for our motors, The N/A's would benefit most from their 12's or 16's when you're wanting to keep your PT streetable. 18's and up would remove to much bottom end torque on the street. Stoplight to stoplight would be disappointing. 14's are "the cam of choice" by all of the top builders Jeff ball, bob Stockum, Darryl Cox, etc. Bob has the 14's (they are split duration-made espeacially for turbos) in every turbo and turbo conversion that he has done, that I know of. Yes, you can turn up the boost on a turbo, but you can only go so high with the boost or you'll blow it up and if you had the cams with that same boost, you would have more power and torque than the turbo without the cams. It's just basic physics. I use the 12's in my N/A. I could have went with the 16's but I didn't want to go to a high stall convertor on the atx.

5. Head work. A port and polish and small shave will make a big differance when added to these other mods. Like most of these mods, they won't do much if done alone. I did the p&p myself and had the head shaved at a local machine shop, while I had it off.

6. Cam gears. If you feel that you want to be able to move your torque/horsepower curve, then you would benefit from adjusable cam gears. Also, if you have shaved the head (this retards cam timing) you will need the gears to get back to your starting point. If you're like me and wanted more torque on the bottom end, you can retard the exhaust cam. I ended up at 3 degrees retard on the exhaust. I ended up up back at 0 on the intake. If you're serious about making all the power you can, you NEED to be able to tune the cams. These gears have been found to give you up to 10 horsepower. No ifs ands or buts.

Tired now, I'll be back later with the exhaust manny, cat and exhaust.

Jerry

Last edited by wwpptc; 22 Mar 2011 at 11:45 am. Reason: speel'n
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