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Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

 
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Old 06 May 2011, 07:09 pm
mdfrodolives's Avatar
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Default Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

If I weren't given two ways of doing this, I'd not have to ask ....

To begin with, howdy Cruisers! I hope you live in an area of the country that is not windblown or under water. I am lucky enough to live in earthquake country (knock on wood).

Anyway, my issue is this: my top motor mount is getting funky, and after reading all the threads and watching incomplete videos, and reading shop manual stuff that assumes I'm a genuine grease monkey, I am left with one question. The upper mount seems fairly easy to disconnect at the rear (just one vertical bolt at the shock tower), but the front bolt seems very difficult to get to with a ratchet--or even a wrench. However, there are two bolts, holding on a bracket, which are adjacent to the mount. I've read conflicting accounts on our forum, concerning which way of loosening the front of the mount.

It seems much easier to go at the two vertical bolts on the motor-mount-to-engine bracket, than to get a wrench between the fender and the front motor-mount bolt. One thread here actually shows a picture of these two bolts being taken out along with the bracket. Then, in the same thread, the poster says to remove the large bolt, using a vise--once you got the mount out of the car, that is.

So who has actually done this job?

I'm going to remove the headlight, either way, to remove the upper mount once I've got the mount undone--so that part will spare me the trouble of possibly bending my A/C lines too much and rupturing them (I've seen a video of someone just bending the A/C lines, but how much is too much?).

Also, I have a manual that mentions using a block of wood and a jack to jack up the front of the engine before tightening the mounting bolts, so that the distance between two points (I have a pic of the points, but can't upload 'em) is 119 mm. Is it necessary to loosen the lower strut bar in order to achieve this distance? Or can I move the front of the engine--enough to get the proper distance--without loosening the lower strut bolts, and messing with the lower mount in the process?

So basically, I have two issues. One, is it okay to "free" the upper motor mount by taking the two bolts out at the engine bracket (after removing the shock-tower bolt, of course). And two, do I have to loosen, both the upper and lower struts in order to get the proper "seating distance" of the upper strut?

Actually, I just thought of another question (come on guys, remember how the "Old Man" felt when he was changing a tire in the movie, A Christmas Story?): anyone ever removed their headlights? And if so, how did you aim them when you put them back in?

Well, that'll do.

Thanks for reading, and thanks to any who likes "changing tires on a cold winter's night ..."

Tim
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Old 06 May 2011, 08:15 pm
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

No need to remove headlight (its a pain to remove it anyway) Just remove the 2 bolt bracket on the head then the 1 bolt rear of mount. Slide the mount forward and you work it right out.

After its removed from car then you can remove the 2 bolt bracket.

I removed the top mount on my turbo (very easy to remove) and wifes non-turbo (ac lines is very close but theres just enough room to clear)

Mine wasnt bad, but i removed them to polish them up:

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Old 06 May 2011, 10:46 pm
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Jeez X! Dayum dude that is one sparkling clean engine!!!!!!
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Old 06 May 2011, 11:34 pm
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chromenut View Post
Jeez X! Dayum dude that is one sparkling clean engine!!!!!!
lol...it gets a bath more often than me
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Old 07 May 2011, 12:52 am
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Xwing, maybe I'll try removing the mount without removing the headlight. But I have a feeling that would involve pushing my non-turbo A/C lines to the unknown limit. Still, I agree with you: pulling the headlight is a lot of extra work--if I can get the job done without doing so.

The photo you included in your post, shows a great deal of clearance. No A/C lines in your way ... unlike my non-turbo. How lucky turbo owners are when it comes to changing the top mount.

But you say you've managed the deed in your non-turbo, also. Others on here have said the same, and I've seen a You Tube video where the guy tied off the lines, pulling them toward the engine to get the strut out. I just have this paranoia about pushing those A/C lines to far, though. In my younger days, if I overtorqued a nut, it was an easy fix. But cracking one of those A/C lines would be a real kick in crack ....

My main concern was answered. Taking the front of the strut off by going at it from the two engine bracket bolts, as opposed to the side bolt, the one between the interior of the fender and the strut.

Apparently, no one has had to adjust their top engine mounts to that shop-manual specification of 119 mm. But if I'm in there I may as well go with the shop manual teachings. Otherwise, I'm just hoping I've got the mount in exactly where it will do me the most good.

Has anyone actually gone to the trouble of this adjustment procedure? And if so, I'll ask again, did you also have to loosen the lower engine strut in order to move the engine up to the specified distance?

Let me know.

Tim
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Old 07 May 2011, 01:24 am
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Yeah i did my turbo first and couldnt understand what people were talking about being cramped and AC lines..lol

Then a while later did the wifes I thought the same as you i would need to remove AC lines or something to get to it but after i got into and wiggled it around came right out.

I looked and cant find a better pic than this after i did the wifes PT (non turbo) If you look close near the AC lines you can see the shine where i polished it.
**side note: The alumn. is really soft and light sanding will remove cast marks. Then you can polish it very easy and quick**




But after you remove the 3 bolts, there is just enough room to slide the mount forward and then slightly rotate it up and out. Once you get the bolts out you will see what i mean by pushing forward and/or back and rotating it until it clears everything.

For the adjustment/line ups, no i didnt do that on either car. A lot of people that runs solid mounts including srt4s (same setup) dont even have that option anyway as most dont have any give (slotted) to adjust.

Also on my GT i removed both upper and lower (added poly inserts to firm up mounts) and still didnt line up or measure anything then.


I will be working on her car tomorrow and if i get a break i will take some pics close up if you want.
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Last edited by xwing777; 07 May 2011 at 01:25 am. Reason: link to pic
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Old 07 May 2011, 01:32 am
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Well, I just researched the adjustment procedure, and, yes (assuming you're going by the book), you have to loosen both the upper and lower struts at the shock tower (for the upper) and the suspension crossmenber (for the lower strut) to adjust the engine in relation to its mounting struts. Then you have to remove the "pencil strut", as well. Then you incrementally jack up the very front of the engine to "tilt" only the front of the engine up till the 119 mm specs are met. Then tighten the strut bolts you loosened (or just installed) to 85 ft. lbs. Then put the pencil strut back on and tighten the bolts to 43 ft. lbs.

Splash shield goes back on, wheel, lugnuts. Hm?

The thing I don't care for is this: I hate to torque stuff to 85 ft. lbs while I'm laying under a car that's just on jack stands. I'm glad I'm still pretty skinny for my age ....

Tim
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Old 07 May 2011, 01:41 am
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Dont have the manual but im wondering if it means the actual engine mount instead of the struts?

The upper and lower engine are designed to asborb the engine moving back and forth, not supporting it.

But anyway on both of mine and i know many others did not adjsut anything when replacing the struts and no problems whatsoever.
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Old 07 May 2011, 01:52 am
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Xwing, from the looks of your non-turbo engine compartment you have a few neat differences, compared to my 2003 Limited Edition.

Your A/C lines are actually routed further to the left than mine, and I can see how much easier it is to pull your upper strut compared to what I have. My A/C lines are directly over my strut. That's weird--and not very nice of Chrysler.

Also, you have an air box that exposes the positive terminal on your battery. My air box lid completely covers the battery. I wish it didn't. I've had a mess of trouble keeping the corrosion off that positive lead and its terminal--that is, until I discovered CRC Battery Protector. But still, I'd like to be able to view that end of the battery, without having to take off the air-box lid.

What year is your non-turbo? I'm assuming it's later than 2003.

By the way, thank you.

Tim
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Old 07 May 2011, 01:59 am
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Default Re: Motor Mount (upper strut) bolts.

Xwing, I guess we're both on line at the same time. So I'm reading your next post as I send mine in. And concerning the adjustment, I can only assume that Chrysler wants the engine in a particular position in relation to the upper and lower struts, so it sits in the middle (I guess they want it to be able to rock back and forth). Otherwise, the weight of the engine may take up all the slack, either tilting forward or backward. But if it's adjusted to somewhere in the middle (at rest) then it can move as it's designed to move.

Yet, I'm probably going to fill the new strut with urethane anyway. so it's going to be a stiff setup no matter what.

Tim
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