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Tensor Adjustment 2.4

 
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Old 16 Jul 2011, 11:51 am
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Default Tensor Adjustment 2.4

Hi all, I have a 2005 2.4 Cruiser. I just put in a new water pump, idler, tensor and belt. I have done weeks of research and I have one of the computer cds with everything on it. But They all say to adjust the spring tang with the 2 windows, Which they all show a different style tensor. Mine has the one bar and a 1/4 in ratchet or pull bar hole to tighten the belt. Instead of the allen wrench kind I keep finding. But I can find no way to hold the windows lined up. You can tighten the belt and tensor bolt. Then still take your finger and move the the pulley window with you finger. I assume the is normal. Maybe a up grade or something. Dose any one know?
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Old 16 Jul 2011, 12:26 pm
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Default Re: Tensor Adjustment 2.4

Heres a pic of how it should look:

A different kind of Timing Belt problem
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Old 16 Jul 2011, 12:29 pm
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Default Re: Tensor Adjustment 2.4

The only thing I can tell you is that the tensioner's on the 2001,02 and 03 are one kind and Chrysler updated it for 2004 and above. The updated tensiner is a little larger than the old one and a new cover is needed or the old cover can be modified to fit over the new tensioner.

Sorry, my mechanic did all the work so can't help other than that.
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Old 16 Jul 2011, 12:50 pm
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Default Re: Tensor Adjustment 2.4

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcktpwrd View Post
Heres a pic of how it should look:

A different kind of Timing Belt problem

Thanks, mine
is the same style as yours. But I can't figure out how to line the windows up. The window on the pulley is all the way to the left side. I can't figure out how to hold it in line. The directions say stick a 1/8 allen wrench in it. But I have no where to stick it. I held it in place with my finger and and tighten the bolt. But it just slides back to the left we I turn lose? None of the guys at napa knew either.
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Old 16 Jul 2011, 01:49 pm
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Default Re: Tensor Adjustment 2.4

Ok I think I have figured it out. My engine is still in the car. So it is very difficult to see the exact position of the windows. I have been playing around with the old one. Finally got it locked. Placement makes a big difference, the correct window spot is a very small area 1/8 to lock it in. What I did, is run a small piece of picture wire through a open area in the rear cover. Behind the belts and looped it over the front tab of the pulley window Then you can pull it right into the correct position while tightening the tension.You still need a mirror to view your work. But at least now it is set right. Hope this helps some else.
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Old 16 Jul 2011, 01:53 pm
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Default Re: Tensor Adjustment 2.4

Check my thread on Head & Belt R&R a couple posts down, near the end is a link to yet another thread that has the actual section of the manual that will show you what you need. I went through this exact same thing two weeks ago.

In the end, here's what I did:

1. Since I had no idea how the tensioner shipped, I loosened the bolt, then retightened it with a torque wrench to the specified value - that is in the aforementioned thread. Then I backed off the bolt 1/4 turn so it could be adjusted.

2. As crazy as this sounds, I jacked the engine into a position where I could see the spring/alignment slot through the side motor mount bolt hole in the bulkhead. It was a straight shot, easy to see.

3. With a torque wrench on the tensioner bolt, and a 1/4" ratchet with a very short extension in the hole on the tensioner's adjuster, I used the ratchet to turn the adjuster counter clockwise until the spring lined up with the notch in the tensioner. You have to use some imagination here, as the spring is resting against the tensioner body and not visible. Essentially, the notch gets aligned with the leading edge of the spring's slot. Once it was in position, I head the tensioner in place with the ratchet and torqued down the bolt to the specified value.

4. There is (obviously) some spring in the tensioner, that's how it does it's job. Once it's tightened correctly, you can still move the alignment guide with your fingers a smidge, but it always returns to where you torqued it down.

FWIW, I think there is less science here than the parts involved lead you to believe. A couple mm misalignment isn't going to wreck your timing belt - with the engine running the tensioner is naturally bouncing around a bit anyway. It needs to be pretty close as a starting point, but perfection is overrated. The torque on that bolt IS critical. If it slips your belt could jump time, or if it's too tight it may not take up the slack as designed. Make sure it's torqued properly.
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