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code 1490

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05 Aug 2011, 12:36 pm
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Default code 1490

I've got a double whammy problem, at least according to the mechanic. The computer cannot send its signal to the low speed fan - BUT the low speed doesn't work anyway. He has hot wired the high speed to remain on so the car won't overheat. My problem is the check engine light stays on and the RMV says I can't pass inspection because of the light. I tried explaining to them that it's not an emission problem but have had no luck convincing them,
Is there a way to turn off the light (clearing the fault code) so I can pass inspection. I'm not trying to fool the RMV - BUT I think they're wrong in this case.
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Old 05 Aug 2011, 01:08 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

Your mechanic should have a DRBII scanner to be able to turn off the fault light or you can take off the negative battery cable for about 5 minutes. That will clear the code and reset the computer. BUT, in a matter of time, the computer is going to recognize the fault again and turn the light back on. Not sure how long that will take. If it takes, lets say 10 minutes, clear the code right before you go in for the inspection. It should last long enough to get through it.

Did you try replacing the low speed relay in the PDC (Power distribution Center) to clear the code???

Last edited by CREWZIN; 05 Aug 2011 at 01:10 pm.
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Old 05 Aug 2011, 01:19 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

Hi Crewzin:

He's suggesting a new computer AND fan motor - Looks like there's no way to tell the computer to ignore the low speed fan - from what I understand there's one motor with two relays - it's a 2001 with only 96k but I'm starting to think 'donation' and looking for another car - BUT I'll try the disconnect and see what kind of luck I have
thanks for the advice
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Old 05 Aug 2011, 01:29 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

Yea, there's no way to tell the computer to disregard the low speed fan. It comes on when the A/C is engauged and usually before the high speed is needed. I'd be careful of any mechanic that wanted to change both the computer and fan. Try and find one that's familiar with the PT.
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Old 05 Aug 2011, 06:58 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

Not certain about your area, but in California resetting the computer also resets the emissions data, and you can't pass the test with the computer in a "not ready" state. Might wanna check that out before trying to squeeze through the test like that.
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Old 06 Aug 2011, 11:24 am
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Default Re: code 1490

This mechanic has me scratching my head. First off - I'm not a mechanic but I'll try to describe what's going on:
Keep in mind what I've been told.
1.The computer is unable to send a 'message' to the low speed on fan.
2. He tells me the fan is broken. But - this is where it gets interesting, especially since I can't back up what I think.
3.There are 2 speed relays - high and low. The high relay is set in the box with others, if you're looking at it from the front it's in the back row to the left. The low relay is set apart to the right away from the other fuses.
4.He told me he hot wired (I have no idea what to what) so that the high speed fan will remain on everytime I start the car. I think the high speed will eventually burn out which will bring me back to the original problem - overheating.
5. Quoted me $600 for a new computer, more for someone from Chrysler to program it; almost $200 for a new fan motor - plus labor. I'm not sure what Chrysler will charge to program but I think I'm well over $1000 total.
6. I'm not going back to this mechanic - does anyone have an idea how much it would cost for a dealer to fix this problem?

Is anyone not confused? Sorry about that
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Old 06 Aug 2011, 11:33 am
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Default Re: code 1490

Not sure of your skills, can you do any work yourself? I've put a HOW TO to replace the fan housing/fan in the forum. Here it is:

Removing the fan and housing 01-05 PT

If you've done any work yourself, it should take under two hours to pull the old fan/housing and replace it. Once you've done it, 45 miutes to an hour is all you need. You can find a new fan/housing on eBay for around $100 some with free shipping.

You would have to find out how he hardwired the high speed fan and disconnect it. There should be either an extra wire in the underhood fuse box or on the wires going to the fan motor itself.

I would say he's just guessing at the computer, but they do go bad but you won't be able to tell till everything is back together with a new fan and without the extra wiring.

If you don't want to tackle the fan, at least you can buy it and ask around for someone to replace yours. Shop around for the best price....and since you did get that code....pick up a new low speed fan relay. They are cheap and easy to replace.
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Old 31 May 2014, 02:10 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

If you hard wire the fan on the "high" speed, wont the Low AND Hight input code come on (0117 & 0118) or is that only if you disconnect the wiring harness from the fan? also, how do you get the 40amp fuse out...

Last edited by dharris; 31 May 2014 at 02:12 pm.
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Old 10 Jun 2014, 04:17 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

Your 40 Amp fan fuse is one of the green square box (the one next to the singe blue box) on the top row. (forget the one circled). Never actually had to replace one of them but looks like it opens up to get to the fuse rather than the whole thing coming out. Could be wrong about that. Hopefully someone that's replaced one of those boxes will come along and help.

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Old 10 Jun 2014, 04:41 pm
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Default Re: code 1490

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64fab4 View Post
I've got a double whammy problem, at least according to the mechanic. The computer cannot send its signal to the low speed fan - BUT the low speed doesn't work anyway. He has hot wired the high speed to remain on so the car won't overheat. My problem is the check engine light stays on and the RMV says I can't pass inspection because of the light. I tried explaining to them that it's not an emission problem but have had no luck convincing them,
Is there a way to turn off the light (clearing the fault code) so I can pass inspection. I'm not trying to fool the RMV - BUT I think they're wrong in this case.
It is not about convincing them it is about what is legally aloud in your area. The main purpose for the OBDII or CANbus is all generally emission related.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thesameguy View Post
Not certain about your area, but in California resetting the computer also resets the emissions data, and you can't pass the test with the computer in a "not ready" state. Might wanna check that out before trying to squeeze through the test like that.
Wording may be needed to be clear with some that will mis-read your good information? Clearing a code or codes is not the same as re-setting the ECU/PCM. If you deliberately choose to re-set the I/M readiness file of the ECU/PCM you must drive at least 30-50 miles minimum to re-establish a state of emission pass condition or readiness action for emission testing. This pass condition is good as long as all issues if any are no longer present. Other wise even if you no longer get a DTC you may still have a bad file area and therefore may not be passable under your areas emission regulations.

Most require that this look like this to pass emissions.













Quote:
Originally Posted by dharris View Post
If you hard wire the fan on the "high" speed, wont the Low AND Hight input code come on (0117 & 0118) or is that only if you disconnect the wiring harness from the fan? also, how do you get the 40amp fuse out...
Depending on the year of your PT if it is a resistor speed controlled motor than wiring for manual operation of the high fan speed should not cause any DTC.
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Last edited by NitroPT; 10 Jun 2014 at 04:46 pm.
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