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Old 28 Sep 2011, 10:25 pm
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Default Control arm bushings

It looks like the control arm bushings are shot. I see that I can buy entire new control arms with moog bushings. Is this a job that a backyard mechanic can handle? I'm a DIYer but have never messed with control arms or balljoints. If I take on the job, what else should I change out/replace/fix while I am at it? I was thinking of tackling the front wheel bearings on both sides at the same time. What else should be on my parts/job list? I want to make sure I have everything needed before I even begin. Any tips, parts lists etc would be appreciated.

I did read the how to.

Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle with a ball joint separator. Do not push out on the steering knuckle; that may cause it to separate from the CV-joint and damage components. If you are replacing the left (driver-side) control arm, go to step 12 now.

This part makes me a little apprehensive. Any specific ball joint separator type I need? I see many on amazon.
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Last edited by DuRoc; 28 Sep 2011 at 10:40 pm.
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Old 29 Sep 2011, 06:53 am
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

no need for a ball joint separator, there is a pinch bolt that holds the ball joint to the knuckle. It will slide apart with a little leverage. Have a good look at the tierod ends.

It's not a terribly hard job to do, be sure to soak all the bolts with penetrating fluid for a day or two before hand. The bolts that hold the control arm in, especially the vertical one tend to get rusty. I pulled everything apart with hand tools when I rebuilt the suspension on mine. Biggest thing I used was a two foot long 1/2" breaker bar...
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Old 29 Sep 2011, 04:26 pm
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcktpwrd View Post
no need for a ball joint separator, there is a pinch bolt that holds the ball joint to the knuckle. It will slide apart with a little leverage. Have a good look at the tierod ends.

It's not a terribly hard job to do, be sure to soak all the bolts with penetrating fluid for a day or two before hand. The bolts that hold the control arm in, especially the vertical one tend to get rusty. I pulled everything apart with hand tools when I rebuilt the suspension on mine. Biggest thing I used was a two foot long 1/2" breaker bar...
Alright Seems like a job I should tackle. I seen someones receipt in another thread for what the dealership had charged and it was quite expensive. Just from reading other threads I gathered that Moog bushings were better, but I have no experience with any bushings. I guess it will be a learning experience. I think a front wheel bearing is humming although there is no play on either side, thats why I thought maybe while I was in there I should just do the bearings. I've read the manual on it also and watched a video, seems doable also. I'd hate to do the LCA's and go back a few weeks later to do the wheel bearings.
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Old 29 Sep 2011, 04:31 pm
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

Yeah it makes sense to do the bearings while your in there if they are bad. I have not had to do them so I can't offer any insight there...
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Old 29 Sep 2011, 05:21 pm
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

You can do it yourself in a day --> Replaced Lower control arms


Both sides, lifetime warranty free shipping $119.95 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser (2) Lower Control Arms New


Your welcome
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Old 29 Sep 2011, 06:42 pm
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

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Originally Posted by xwing777 View Post
You can do it yourself in a day --> Replaced Lower control arms


Both sides, lifetime warranty free shipping $119.95 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser (2) Lower Control Arms New


Your welcome
Hey thanks man. The pics don't show though, any way you can PM me the pics or Email: k_holmes44@yahoo.com. I did read your thread earlier, feeling better about it all the time. Thanks again, I do appreciate it.
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Old 29 Sep 2011, 10:27 pm
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

Thats weird as they are linked from one of my personal websites.

THis is the directory they are in: Index of /lca
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Old 30 Sep 2011, 12:25 am
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by xwing777 View Post
Thats weird as they are linked from one of my personal websites.

THis is the directory they are in: Index of /lca
Thank again. Any reason to pay more for the ones loaded with moogs or are these basically just as good?
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Old 30 Sep 2011, 08:03 am
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

The manufacture xcp is major supplier of suspension parts including moog, so odds are your getting the same thing as moog would be anyway
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Old 30 Sep 2011, 12:12 pm
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Default Re: Control arm bushings

I've heard over and over on these forums that Moog are the ball joints to get.

I just did the swap from OEM to Energy Suspension bushings on both sides. It was the Florida Heat/Humidity that did me in more than the job itself.

You'll need big enough 6 point sockets for the vertical and horizontal bushings, 2 ratchets, or a ratchet and a flat wrench for the pinch bolts. You'll need to disassemble the sway bar at least the end links and loosen the brackets so it swings down.

I used a black "impact wrench" style socket and a 18" 1/2" breaker bar, and like he-man I powered through the vertical bolt. It is essentially impossible to soak this beforehand as the captive nut is above the frame. I did start off by whacking the breaker bar a few times but I didn't make any headway so I just got all grayskull and it moved for me LOL.

Have both tires up in the air if you're not on a lift. Makes the swaybar reassembly easier.

Tie rod end should come off fairly easily, just the castle nut on the bottom. You don't need that pickle fork thing, just lay a wood block under it after the nut is gone and whap it once with a hammer and it'll come right apart. Don't change your alignment, just lay it to the side.

Take off the brake caliper and bracket, and hang the caliper to the spring with something. Pull off the rotor and then get the pinch bolt loose on the ball joint.

You'll need to pry a little bit to get started getting the ball joint out of the spindle, if you're replacing the whole thing though, no need to be careful lol. A good whack once it gets started or if you're confident that the car is solid on blocks - stamp on the LCA with your foot and the ball joint will come right out.

I was SO fearful that I would damage the axle on the driver side but it didn't happen.

If it wouldn't have been for the oppressive heat I could have done both in a day, but I ended up doing one side one saturday, and the other side the net week sunday.
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