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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 13 Nov 2011, 11:00 am
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Location: Sheffield UK
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Default re:overheating

hi all, ok i may be stating the obvious to a lot of guys on here...but..i know when my cruiser had overheating problems i was like a lot of people a bit stumped. I fixed mine by a simple flush rad and then burp the system. I could have spent a load of pounds trying to fix this but if you do this correctly it really works..i spent hours trawling all the posts and then it came down to a simple thing. thanks to everyone on here for advice, i was ready to give up this car as a lemon and im glad i put a couple hours of effort into it -it now runs like a peach. I would say before spending heap load of money on parts/garage time you perform this simple task beforehand, im no expert but im guessing it could be a part of regular maintenance...btw UK owners you can use OAT..
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Old 13 Nov 2011, 11:02 am
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Default Re: overheating

Good one Dayle. That's always my first advice, dump what ya got, flush the sucker really good, then refill and burp the baby. Lot of problems with overheating related to an air lock.
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Old 13 Nov 2011, 11:14 am
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Default Re: overheating

its hard to flush because of position of cap however if you buy a decent brand of rad flush it works a treat. its always the best option to try these things because a) rad flush is like 3 a bottle (buy two) and b) like mine - i thought rad was blocked as only hot in upper part but that doesnt necessarily mean you need new rad... i read a lot of stories from people on here taking this sympton to a garage and my experience of garages(unfortunately) are bad (although i live in uk) to sum it up...my GF wanted me to get rid of my prize possession and tade in for a ford focus or similar..i stood my ground because i love this car..even by todays std nothing comes close...it still turns heads and more so now there arent as many on the roads.....the small gripes i can live with..makes me stand out from the fiesta/mondeo crowd (of which there are 10000000's)
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Old 13 Nov 2011, 11:20 am
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Default Re: overheating

btw does anyone know where i can get a pcv hose in UK? the last owner bodged it and i need proper part (online is about 20 but no stock
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Old 13 Nov 2011, 02:23 pm
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Default Re: overheating

I messed mine up and just bought a length of hose and created my own. Was way cheaper, and I didn't have to wait for them to order me one.
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Old 15 Nov 2011, 04:14 am
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Default Re: overheating

both connecting ends are different size otherwise i would do the same!
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Old 16 Nov 2011, 12:56 pm
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Default Re: overheating

i have the exact opposite problem i can not get the check engine light to go off because of the coolant temp is too low i have replaced the coolant temp sensor 3 times 4 thermostats flushed even though it is only 4 months old and of course i burped it but to no avail it still keeps throwing low temp code it has a new fan new water pump new rad i am so lost as to what i should do now i have even talked to service techs at Chrysler and they are perplexed and do not understand what the problem is either so i sit here with a car that needs to pass emissions test in 2 months and no where to turn
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Old 16 Nov 2011, 02:46 pm
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Default Re: overheating

Either the t-stat's sticking open or somehow bypass is flowing more than it should.
Some cars had restictor in one end of heater core. I don't believe PT has this.

You can feel if / when t-stat opens; hold onto upper radiator hose.

A small piece of debris will hold t-stat open. Exuberant use of silicone's usually the culprit.
There's more than one way to regulate engine temps, cardboard in front of radiator-
Poor man's version of industrial engine's radiator 'shutters' controlling entire cooling
temp
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Old 16 Nov 2011, 05:23 pm
kg1 kg1 is offline
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Default Re: overheating

I too have been reading and searching the posts on here, but I can't seem to get my car correct. I got a 2001 with 46k.

I recently changed the t-stat, rad cap, fluids, coolant temp sensor, burped the system.

Fans run excellent, like they should.

Hoses are fine.

Only thing I can think would be the radiator or temp gauge. Car runs hot to me (temp gauge reading), when I start it up when parked after driving for awhile. The temp gauge goes almost to the red then drops

and I really don't wanna do damage to it driving it around, have a head gasket problem. car only has 46k miles and was my grandparents car and I have all the receipts



any advice???

Last edited by kg1; 16 Nov 2011 at 05:27 pm.
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Old 17 Nov 2011, 03:41 am
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Default Re: overheating

LOL uptown you took my idea just as I was reading I was going to suggest some cardboard LOL.

kg1
did you say you HAVE a head gasket problem or that you don't want to have a head gasket problem?

if you do have a head gasket problem....until you fix it you will probably have radiator probs.

if that is as high as your guage goes I do agree it is running hotter than normal but unless there is evidense to teh contray I don't think it will cause a problem.
you can always try replacing the coolant temp sesnor and see if that helps.

make sure there is nothing blocking air from going through your raditor....no paper or card board or dirt or bugs.
might want to try power washing off the air condition condensor and the engine cooling raditor to make sure there are no obstructions.
a garden hose with or without a sprayer would probably accomplish this.
compressed air could be a choice as well.
might be a good way to test something out get the car hot and spray the radtor with water and see if temps drop.

you say the fan works correctly....do you know for a fact that BOTH fan speeds work?
its potentially possible that the low speed fan isn't coming on but the high speed fan comes on just before it gets too hot.

if those three are not the culprit and everything else has been tried or fixed. (maybe a coolant additive would be a good recommendation???)

then maybe you'd want to look into a "performance" or cooler raditor thermostat like a 180degree instead of the stock 190-200degree one.

also what the ambient tempture (aka outside tempture) at when you have these high heat problems?

if that doesn't work....maybe its time for a raditor....and a really good engine flush....potentially possible that some parts inside the raditor itself are plugged.

when I worked at toyota someone borught in a dodge truck that was having an electrical issue (battery wouldn't stay charged and they had battery and alternator replaced and still didn't fix the problem.
as soon as I popped the hood it smacked me in the face.
was confirmed as soon as I hooked up the jumper box.
they had removed the mechanical or stock electrical fan and installed 2 aftermarket cooling fans with an aftermarket temp temp sensor.
problem was they hooked up the fan to an always hot power suply where key was in the ignition or not (I think it was th ebatter itself they hooked up to)
as soon as I hooked up the jumper box to jump the car the fan came on.
vehicle ran fine byitself.
after hooking up the thermostate power supply correctly to only come on when ignition was on.
we noticed that when both fan were running and the engine was at operating temp that one side of the raditor had hot air blowing through it and the other side had noticeably cooler air running through it.
potentially this is because of the cooling provided I don't remmber if the raditor was crossflow design or a normal top to bottom flowing design. but one of teh techs said he suspected that the raditor might have been clogged.
at the time I was just a lube tech so I didn't deal with the actual fixing of the vehicle so I do not remember if every issue was resolved.

unfortuntely there isn't any room to be able to put your hand down there and see if one side of the raditor is cooler or hotter than the other.....plus I wouldn't recommedn it even if there was because you'd have to put your hand vey close to the rotating assembly and that is down right dangerous.
it was a story to highlight the fact that potentially the raditor could be defective and that it does happen.
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