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Alternator change

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 19 Jan 2012, 11:32 am
HawaiianPt's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Nanakuli, Hawaii
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Default Alternator change

I'm about to change my alternator In my 2001 pt and was wondering
If its easier to take out the driveshaft to get to the alternator or I've seen
Videos on you tube where people suggest dropping the motor a little.

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Old 19 Jan 2012, 01:19 pm
UptownSport's Avatar
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Location: 55403
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Default Re: Alternator change

Only taken it off with head off, so can't help you-

There's been some recent posts about changing alternator- Perhaps you could PM them
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Old 21 Jan 2012, 12:23 am
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Posts: 29
Default Re: Alternator change

I have replaced mine twice. Removing the drive shaft is pretty easy. The hardest part will be removing the axle nut if you dont have an impact wrench. If your axle is rusted into the the hub. Use a gear puller to push it out. If you need more details let me know. Last time I was done in less than an hour. First time took me most of a day but I also replaced the ball joints at the same time.
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Old 06 Feb 2012, 08:53 pm
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Smile Re: Alternator change

the easiest way is to cut off the little part of the manifold on the end of it where it blocks it out of coming out the top i cut it off you dont need it and it dont help nothing or hurt nothing take the cutoff tool by air and cut the corner off you will c it sticking out keeping it from coming out the top when you cut it off its about two or three inches or 4 cut it at an angle and then the alternator will come out the top otherwise its 4 or 5 hours taking the wheel and such and axle out
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Old 22 Feb 2012, 12:34 pm
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: caledonia, ontario, canada
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Default Re: Alternator change

hi , how much of the flange do you cut off ? i want to do this in the next while so that i can be ready if and when the alternator fails. also do you have a picture? thank you very much, jim hoysa
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Old 04 Dec 2012, 09:59 am
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Default Re: Alternator change


Jack up passenger front of car and set on jack stand.

Disconnect battery then go under car and remove the wires from alternator.

Remove two top motor mount bolts that attach to engine block pass side and push mount to the side.

Remove the front bolt on the lower motor mount.

At this time you will see that the motor rocks back and forth..that's what you want.

Now Remove the pivit bolt at alternator base where it attaches to the mounting bracket.

Then from above remove the tension bolt and stud. You may need to bend the ac drier's mounting bracket a little to get the adjustment bolt free.

Once alt is free move out out of the way and remove the lower alternator mounting bracket from the block (three bolts 15mm and 13mm).

Now use jack to support engine under oil pan..LIGHT PRESSURE HERE so you don't damage pan. I would say back pass rear corner would be the best spot on the pan to jack from. No heavy pressure..just a little tight.

Now remove the center motor mount bolt at wheel well. There is a 2" plastic plug and a grounding wire there. Easy to access but bolt is a Torx 55 I think. Lift engine enough so there is no weight on that bolt and remove said bolt.

NOW ENGINE IS FREE ON PASS SIDE. If you jack up the engine as far as possible..a little scary but won't hurt anything......then you can work the alternator out and free (tight fit) between the frame, engine and out from the side by the front of the wheel well/ A-arm area.

Just reassemble in reverse. Alternator in then off to the bracket. and so on. Only tricky part is you MUST put the tension adjustment parts loosely together on the top of the alternator first before installing the bottom pivot bolt. Took me 45min to figure this out..Like a jigsaw puzzle.

Not a fun job...but seems much better than taking the axle out and suspension apart. I did not even have to remove the wheel. No special tools necessary sans a big torx socket. My stubby flex ratchet was nice to have, but I doubt is needed if you have more basic stuff. All I needed was a basic socket set and combo wrench set. In fact I used just a 13, 14 15mm wrenches, 10mm 12 13 15 and 18mm sockets, Stubby flex ratchet, regular ratchet and a big torx socket (t55 I think)

With having TWO bad alternators in a row I can now do a complete alternator change start to finish in one hour with this method. I read a post where I guy said he ground off a bit of the manifold and got it out that way. Thought about that and looking closely I doubt I that would have worked without freeing the engine. Considering it takes all of about 5 min to get the engine loose it was stupid to even go there at least on how my car is set up. The only difficult part of this is working in the tight area removing the bracket and the hardest is holding the alternator in just the right spot while you have to reassemble the tension bolt through the stud that then goes through the top hole in the alternator. Once you get that sort of loosely assembled then you can attach the pivit bolt at the bottom. If you make the adjustment parts too tight here you can not swing the alt around and set in the right spot to line up the pivit bolt. The rest of the job is straight forward.
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Old 04 Dec 2012, 06:35 pm
xwing777's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Taylorsville NC
Posts: 1,106
Default Re: Alternator change

I changed them by pulling axle and removing the oil filter housing (3 bolts). Drops right out easily.

On top on the manifold if you remove the map sensor you can easily fit your hand down behind to remove/loosen the bolts
2004 Almond GT, autostick - Only car shows, some weekends but with Stage1!
2003 cranberry 5 speed GT - Fishing with a sleeper Stage3 setup!
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Old 04 Dec 2012, 10:24 pm
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 29
Default Re: Alternator change

Just remember when ever you remove the motor mounts and reinstall them you must adjust them on the car. The procedure is in the Haynes manual and in the FSM. You use a jack to move the engine and set the distances on the mounts. I used a digital caliper for the measurements on mine. Sorry I don't remember the exact specs.
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